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Published: April 26th 2009
We had a lunchtime crossing back to the North Island on Monday 6th April which was once again very smooth, but twice as busy compared to our outward journey. It was around 4.30pm when we docked into Wellington and then we began our mammoth drive to Lake Taupo in the centre of the North Island some 380km away! We arrived at our pre-booked campsite just after 9pm absolutely shattered, but glad we had completed the last of our big drives.
Lake Taupo
The next morning we went to check out the lake, the largest in New Zealand at 606km2. It lies in a caldera or area of subsidence that was formed by one of the biggest ever volcanic eruptions over 26,500 years ago. We had a brief stroll along the lake stopping to watch hopeful golfers attempt to get a hole in one on the floating green about 150 yards offshore for $5000 prize money.
Rotarua aka ‘The Sulphur City’
The next day we drove 80km north on the ‘Thermal Explorer Highway’ to Rotarua. Rotarua is New Zealand's most thermally active place, the activity originating from the eruption that formed Lake Taupo. Lake Rotarua, one
of 16 in the area also lies in a caldera like Lake Taupo. We could smell the city before we saw it due to all the hydrogen sulphide being emitted from various hot springs and steaming vents!
Rotarua Museum of Art and History
In the afternoon we visited the Rotarua Museum of Art and History. The beautiful mock Tudor building which houses the museum was a Bath House from 1908 to 1966 and offered various alternative treatments. People from around the globe visited the Bath House for treatments up until 1966 when it closed because the medical benefit of some of the treatments was disputed.
Within the museum we had the opportunity to learn about the history of the Bath House, walk around the basement and look at the complex array of pipes that fed the mineral rich water around and view various bathrooms including a mock-up of a mud bath used to treat rheumatism amongst other things. The hydrogen sulphide in the water had eroded through much of the pipe work and porcelain baths.
Another interesting exhibit was on Mount Tarawera which last erupted on 10th June 1886 killing 120 people in the village
of Rotamahana. The eruption destroyed the famous pink and white terraces which drew international crowds and put New Zealand on the map. We watched a short film on the eruption complete with vibrating seats to enable you to really feel what it must have been like.
After the museum we wandered around the peaceful Government Gardens which skirt Lake Rotarua. Our walk took us to Ohinemutu, a Maori village no longer inhabited which included the pretty St Faith's Anglican Church on the shores of the lake.
Whakarewarewa
A visit to Rotarua's living thermal village was a definite must see the following day. During our time there we went on a guided tour conducted by one of the actual villagers, a supposed descendant of the survivors of the Mount Tarawera eruption. She showed us thermal vents and hot springs that are used for cooking and bathing. A highlight was watching New Zealand's largest geyser, Pohutu putting on a display.
The tour was followed by a Maori Cultural Performance, similar to what we had seen in Auckland. However one dance required audience participation, akin to ‘heads, shoulders, knees and toes’, but in Maori so it got very
The bog of eternal stench
At Whakarewarewa, Rotarua´s living thermal village.confusing!
Te Po and Te Puia
That evening we enjoyed a second Maori Cultural Performance and Hangi (meal cooked in the ground) at Te Puia, a Maori Cultural Centre sharing Rotarua's largest thermal area with the village. The night began with one tourist being chosen to greet the grunting Maori warrior and accept a leaf symbolising friendship and allowing entry into a traditional house with concert area. This was followed by a series of songs and dances again with some audience participation.
After the performance we enjoyed a traditional Hangi meal that included mussels, prawns, oysters, salads, roast chicken, pork and lamb accompanied by roast vegetables. This was finished with an assortment of desserts including kiwi pavlova.
The evening ended with a trip to the Pohutu geyser to watch it blow whilst supping hot chocolates. Sadly it did not blow for us, but there was plenty of steam around making it a befitting way to end another night in Rotarua.
Zorbing
Our time in Rotarua would not have been complete without a visit to 'Zorb Rotarua', an activity that was invented in New Zealand. Zorbing involves being rolled down a hill in
a large inflatable rubber ball. As I was going solo, I chose the 'Zorbit' option which meant that I was strapped inside a ball and remained dry. The other option was 'Zydro' where water is added into the ball, you are not strapped in and you can have up to 3 others inside with you! Well I am glad I tried it, but I did not really enjoy it. I had to keep my eyes closed for most of it to reduce dizziness and the rolling motion made me feel very nauseous.
Whakatane
Our main reason for visiting Whakatane in the Bay of Plenty was to take a boat trip to White Island, New Zealand's most active volcano. However when we arrived we found out that the trip was fully booked until Sunday so we had a day and a half to discover what Whakatane had to offer.
Our campsite was next to the river and river walk so we decided to do that on our first day and walk to a lookout over Whale Island. Whale Island, a dormant volcano lies only 9km offshore and sits in the same volcanic trench as White Island that
is 49km offshore. We could just about make out the outline of White Island from the lookout.
The next day we went on a longer return walk of around 12km to Ohope Beach, a 10km long sandy beach. The walk was hard because it was very undulating and it certainly got our pulses racing and our calves burning in the midday sun. Although we walked parts of it through gritted teeth, there were plenty of good lookouts which made it worthwhile. Ohope Beach was pretty and we enviously watched some surfers whilst taking advantage of the arrival of Mr Whippy.
White Island
On Easter Sunday we visited White Island or Whakaari in Maori which means that which can be made visible. Years ago (1970s and 1980s) there was a permanent cloud of white smoke sitting over the top of the island, hence the name. It is New Zealand's only active marine volcano. Mad? perhaps, but there would not be organised trips there unless it was safe would there?
After picking up our boarding passes we climbed aboard the boat Peejay IV around 9.45am at high tide so we could pass the large sand bar that
Dragon
Potentially the next major crater on White Island stretches over the river mouth. We then found a comfortable seat for a 1 hour, 20 minute cruise to the island. On board we met a very friendly kiwi couple who we got chatting to and were there in no time.
We anchored in Crater Bay and were taken to shore in groups of 8 via a dingy. We all had to wear a hard hat and carry a gas mask in case we began coughing due to the sulphur dioxide rich steam. The friendly crew gave us a comprehensive safety briefing covering everything from where to place our feet to what action to take should an eruption occur.
There were around 50 passengers so we split into 2 groups for a 2 our guided tour of the inner crater. The initial part of our tour covered the science behind White Island and John, our guide pointed out all the monitoring equipment including the busiest seismograph in the country. Apparently the seismograph records 20-30 tremors or earthquakes in any 24 hour period! However John assured us that the island was classified as Grade 1 meaning there was activity, but only a very slim chance of an eruption (Grade
0 = dormant to Grade 5 = about to erupt).
John led us on an unmarked track which took us past many examples of volcanic activity. We saw hissing fumaroles (chimneys of steam) condensing to form streams of sulphuric acid, boiling pools of water and bubbling pools of mud. The main crater (the most active part) was a lake of sulphuric acid which had been fed by rainwater. It was green in colour and steaming and one sure way of getting rid of something or someone!
Other features included steaming mounds of ash, formed by a previous eruption. John warned us to keep well clear of them as they could collapse at any time to leave a boiling pool of water or mud. The ground was an array of colours full of white calcium sulphate deposits and bright yellow sulphur trails.
We learned about the history of sulphur mining on the island, the most prosperous time between 1922 and 1933. We were able to walk around the old factory and see the eroded machinery used to extract low grade sulphur from rock by heating it. The miners led a dangerous existence from the constant threat of an
eruption to the erosive nature of sulphur dioxide wearing away their teeth and clothing.
After the excellent tour we had lunch on board and then made a 360 degree circuit of the island to see the little plant life, mainly Pohutukawa or New Zealand Christmas Tree and the former miner's settlement with only a stone chimney remaining. On our journey back to the mainland we were privileged to be escorted part of the way by several pods of common dolphins. It was a real treat to see these curious creatures up close and it was a memorable way to finish our tour.
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