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Published: December 20th 2008
Napier to Gisborne
Written Saturday 20th December 2008
Captains Log: (Seafarers)
Left Napier 1430hrs Sunday, 14 December with 55 litres of fuel on board and a forecast of 15 knot north easterlies. Headed due east for 9 hours at 5 knots. Went southeast around the bottom of the Portland Islands and set a northerly course for the next six hours. Arrived Gisborne 0900hrs Monday, 15 December. Entering Gisborne very easy with clear channel markers and plenty of water. Very small marina in the inner basin, mainly large game fishing boats. The wind never eventuated and died away to a force one. Motored entire way and finished with less than 12 litres of fuel.
No 1’s version: (The bigger story)
When you are a landlubber and have been for most of your life, terms like Hawkes Bay mean areas of land mass that hold places like Napier and Hastings and have really good wineries. Leaving Napier to begin the next leg of our journey, I looked at the chart of the area and suddenly realised that Hawkes Bay is just that - a huge area of water and coast line that forms a bay. Not the little cove or bay
Tuahine Point
Northern headland of Poverty BayI am used to, but big enough to dwarf at least two cities and still look sparsely populated. It took us 9 hours to cross the bay averaging 5 knots (about 10km per hour for the uninitiated).
With John having gone back to his life and work in Hamilton, we were just the two of us for this leg of the journey, and would be travelling overnight so were going to be tired. I did not think I would manage on one hour between shifts on the helm. We decided that we would have three hours on, three hours off and see how that went. I opted to stay up until 11.30 pm. The Captain is able to fall asleep with little or no prompting (as he keeps doing while I am trying to edit the blog with him) so I figured he would get far more benefit from an evening rest, it is when I usually settle for the night so would have less impact on my body clock, a course change was needed at about that time AND I knew I could handle the boat in the conditions. At just after 8pm the Captain disappeared into the
cabin and was soon clearly enjoying his journey into the Land of Nod.
The next three hours were magical for me. The sun set behind the receding coastline, Napier having long ago faded into the distance. We were headed to the southern end of the Mahia Peninsula and at one stage the Peninsula was bathed in the dying sunlight, standing out like an island against the horizon. I had noticed what looked like a sand dune to the south of the Penisula - this turned out to be Portland Island which approaching from the west looks long and flat, a little like looking a pikelet from a side angle with sheer sides and a flat top. As the light faded my attention was drawn to the light that flashes from its southern tip in 15 second intervals.
Distance over water is so different from being land based. I am still trying to get used to it. That light took hours to reach once it started flashing but looked very close!
The Captain has mentioned many times the phosphorescence that happens on dark nights in the water but I had not really understood, nor appreciated its beauty before because
I have never really seen it in action. (Captains Note: Technically it is generated by bacteria. The bacteria are free swimming, can grow on or inside some organisms and some creatures grow them inside or on their bodies in special organs. The bacteria normally glow when they have been moved. If you look at a piece of fish in the dark and it is glowing it is the same bacteria and it is harmless).
I first noticed that the spray from Hakura’s passage through the water was very white in the dark, glowing almost. This seemed unusual to me given that there was no moonlight. So, as you do, I stuck my head over the side to have a better look. And WOW. It looked like there were jewels floating in the spray. Picture clear glass beads about the size of golf balls glowing like snow crystals in the wake which in turn is glowing white because of the phosphorescence. It was beautiful and fascinating. I just sat and watched it for ages - in between my watch duties of course!
On watch we chart our position every hour. I have been taught what to do and how to do it. And about every ten minutes you check to make sure there are no other vessels that can cause a problem. I also tend to check the boat. That is a really significant check from me given that I really don’t know what I am looking for, but I check it all carefully anyway. Sails … still attached. Wind direction … still blowing, or not. Motor … still running and spray coming out of rear end of the boat to indicate cooling system working. I do however notice anything terribly out of place, so that is why I check. I have yet to find Johnny Depp sitting on the bow, but am ever hopeful. (Captains note: His look alike was asleep downstairs all the time.)
As you can see the time is full of things to do and watch and passes before you know it. I am under instruction to wake his Captainship at any time I have a concern or need assistance. Of course I try very hard not to do that unless it is absolutely necessary. At 10.15pm approaching Portland Island the view to the north was becoming more and more unobstructed. Suddenly I noticed a light on the horizon that I had not seen before. A vessel? It became a flaming orange colour. Good lord, a vessel on fire! I could see the plumes of black smoke around it. Panic? Should I wake The Captain? How could we assist? Deep breath No. 1, think about what action to take. What IS it? OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! Those black plumes of smoke look like clouds. What on earth is it? Perhaps I will leave it a minute before I wake The Captain. And then it rose up from the horizon, blazing orange and then paling to its normal silvery colour - a perfect full moon. AWESOME. 10/10.
At 11.30pm the Captain came on watch, we changed course and I went to the Land of Nod. Three hours later HE was having the temerity to wake ME just because it was my turn on watch again. When you get up, have the hot drink you hope will be either waiting for you or just coming, clamber into all your cool gear (the fashionable sailing gear is another story) and climb back up to the cockpit you are ready to enjoy the sights all over again. The next three hours for me were filled with star gazing, praying that the weather would not change for the worse and watching the sun come up again (7/10).
By the time I sank back into oblivion after The Captain took over again at 5.30am I was feeling pretty jaded. Luckily we were nearly at the end of the trip to Gisborne and his nibs was going to get us into the harbour, moored and I was going to be able to sleep through.
(Captains Note: Hee, hee, hee)
LORRAINE!!! LORRAINE!!! QUICKLY!!! QUICKLY!!!
I hit the deck running.
“What, what, what?”
“Bring the net, quickly . . . I’ve caught a fish”.
And so he had. Noticing he had been running through a school of kawhai he decided to try his luck and soon had one hooked. I was most complimentary. I admired the fish, suggested it needed bleeding, then disappeared back to my bed. And so to blissful, restful sleep.
LORRAINE!!! LORRAINE!!! QUICKLY!!! QUICKLY!!!
Another one - this time a kingfish. He was having a ball. You will note if you check the map he does so painstakingly for you, that we were all over the place at the mouth of the Poverty Bay. This was the boat going round and round in random circles while he caught fish. Luckily that was the last catch of the day - I admired his new fish, was complimentary BUT had he woken me again I would probably have whacked him with one of his catch. (The fish was delicious and provided several meals during our stay in Gisborne).
I woke of my own accord when hearing us docking at the fuel wharf in Gisborne. This was an unfamiliear type of fuel dock for us as previously our encounters had been in marina’s and this was for commercial shipping. Actually it was the same in Napier but as that had not been working we left without refuelling. Watching the Captain scale the ladder to the top of the wharf, listen to him swear because it was not working, ring the number provided to get assistance, and finally ascertain that we needed a Caltex Card, which neither of us have, was entertaining. Refuelling was abandoned until a later time and we headed into our appointed berth at the Marina.
Gisborne is really a lovely place. I had never visited before, and the Captain only once in the 1960’s, but we are both of the opinion that is one of this countries lesser known treasures. With its beaches and the river that runs through it, it is extremely picturesque and the people are very friendly.
Our experience of Gisborne was heightened by the pleasure we had in having two rather exceptional young people join us for two nights. Stefan (John Hadfield’s son) and his girlfriend Madeleine had been biking from Hamilton to the Mahia Peninsula round East Cape to raise money for Stefan’s medical fees, and for Backup.
Nearly two years ago now Stefan suffered serious head injuries while skiing in Canada. The accident put him in hospital in a coma for two months before he regained consciousness and was able to be bought home. The fact that he has survived is a testament to how remarkable he is. You can read their story at http://journeyforlife.weebly.com/.
The town was very close to the marina, always a bonus, and we needed to do some shopping chores. On our second day, having rested up, we ended up going in different directions after having lunch together in town. The Captain headed back to the boat to refuel having solved the 'Card' problem and I wanted to finish some Christmas shopping so started walking the length and breadth of the main street window shopping and trying to find inspirational ideas for gifts.
During my wanderings, rain that had threatened for some time decided to fall in a good shower. The sidewalks are paved. When wet they can be slippery if you have plastic shoes on with no tread … you guessed it. Down I went. I would like to think it was a graceful decent, but someone of my stature does not fall gracefully - we just fall. Instant pain and swelling in my right wrist! Passers by helped me up and wanted to offer further assistance (I said the people are friendly) but I was okay and gathering up my stuff in my left hand, I started out to the supermarket.
Well I had not gone too far when I realised I needed to apply some ice to the wrist and that I needed some fluid so I went into the nearest eatery I could find. There were no other customers, and when I purchased just a bottle of water explained I had had a bit of a fall and asked if I could just sit and have the water they were wonderful. They had me sit where I would get the most benefit from the air conditioning unit. Then on noticing I was using the drink bottle as an icepack, they arrived with a tea towel full of ice, and were happy for me to sit there for the half hour or so it took to get myself gathered together again. The supermarket was at the other end of town of course, so I resorted to a taxi to carry everything back to the marina, where the Captain had successfully refuelled and was back in the berth.
The next day we wanted to recharge our computers and were unable to do it on the boat because we did not have the right power connection. We wanted to check emails, update the blog (The Wairarapa) and check a few things on the net. I had told The Captain about the delightful people who had looked after me the day before and wanted to go there as a first choice. Do you think I could find it again! It was like it disappeared off the face of the earth. We now refer to it as the Cafe of Need - there when you want it, gone when you don’t.
We were delighted that Zest Café allowed us to recharge and use the computers while we enjoyed several cups of tea, bowls of coffee, and some of their great baking.
Gisborne gets a big tick. We loved the time spent with Stefan and Madeleine (and teaching them to play Phase 10 - Stefan rules!). Then I had an exciting phone call from my kids who had arrived back in New Zealand as a surprise. So it was all on to get moving north again.
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paeroa pirates
non-member comment
way to go!!
hi Hv finally got to read your adventures from the beginning And I hv thoroughly enjoyed it. I do not want to be there" doing it " but WOW am very happy experiencing it from afar!! I agree with Chris in her last comments and am looking forward to seeing you both in Auck-and to at last meet you Lorraine.Dorothy approves so am sure thjats a great start!Keep on sailing and see you in afew days cheers Frances