Away from it all

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In our last week we visited drove up the East coast once again turning inland at Te Kaha for 16km along unmade up road. This was taking us into the wopwops (as kiwis call the outback, or the back of beyond as Brits might say). The road wound around the hillside and the driver required careful navigation of potholes as well as fording two rivers. We werent quite sure what to expect, but turning a corner revealed an oasis-like plateau of land in the midst of the impressive Raukumara Ranges of hills.

We stayed the night in a cabin which felt like something out of a novel, with toilet outside, and a generator whirring in a nearby building. (The satellite dish was rather out of place!) The water wasn't running when we arrived because the horses, of which there were many had trampled on the pipes. Fortunately the owner soon sorted this out for us. Apart from the couple living on the station we were the only other inhabitants for miles, and the solitude, space and beauty was truly inspiring and awesome. We felt like early European settlers! We had bright sunny days and clear star-filled skies to enjoy, and both Hugh and Catherine became more confident around the horses which were grazing all around the cabin.

We had gone to try horse riding, at which we were all novices; in the end only Catherine and Rosie did the treks. Hugh was led around on horseback for a ride, and even went a short distance on his own. Jon also sat on a horse for the first time in his life - not quite the same as riding a bike he admitted. Lucy tried out the back-pack. Rosie hadn't sat on a horse for 30 years (saying that made her feel very old) and found that the horses she had experienced on Welsh holidays were more docile, and the treks far less ambitious than these. Catherine seemed a natural, at ease, confident and in control. On the first day we trekked on the level, criss-crossing through rivers and along the river bed. This was exciting enough for Rosie, but Catherine decided she wanted the greater challenge of a hill on our second day. Our guide was willing to oblige and she led us through the stunning scenery, seeing and hearing wonderful birds and enjoying feeling at one with nature. At the end of our ride we began to climb what Joan called a hill, and to Rosie from high up on a pretty large horse seemed more like a mountain! The huts where we were staying, when we reached the top, were mere specks below. Coming down a steep path with a fairly sheer drop to the side on a horse that insists on walking as close to the precipitous edge as possible is quite an experience.

Of all the places we visited and the experiences we enjoyed in our three months this has got to rank amongst the best. Partly because it was so unexpected, so beautiful, and so remote, with or without the horse-rides we loved the setting and all that it evoked. Should we ever go back to New Zealand this would certainly be one place to which we would love to return.

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Photos

Maungaroa Station
Looking into the valley; we stayed in a hut just beyond the red building, centre right.

Our house
The one with the red roof, toilet immediately outside

Wildlife
We were surrounded by horses, cows, peacocks and alpacas.