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Published: February 21st 2011
So on Friday night, my host family turned on the TV to watch the rugby league that is regional teams from New Zealand, Australia and South Africa. It's official...I'm an addict! I was so into the game and I didn't even know which team was which! Now I want to learn how to play - don't worry mom, I won't do that while I'm traveling :-)
On Saturday I woke up leisurely....well as leisurely as I could with the roaster. I really don't like that bird! I decided to spend the day in Suva seeing the sites that the city had to offer. I took the mini-bus into the city and at first tried to find a regular bus to take me across town to the museum. It was raining and I wasn't in the mood to get all wet. As it turns out, figuring out which bus to get on was not as easy as I thought and even after asking around, I never found the right bus. So walking to the museum it was! The rain was starting to let up so as it turned out, it wasn't that bad. As I walked down the main street I passed the market that was extra busy due to all of the people shopping for their food for the week. It was fun to see all the people and business taking place. Its jam packed and then there are these boys that dart through the crowds with a wheelbarrel to deliver more product to their stall. Let me tell you, do not get caught in their way. They are not timid about running through you!
Suva is an interesting mix of old and modern type buildings. Its a small city when compared to cities in the US, but a huge city for Fiji. You can walk around the main business district in about 30 min. I took the main road along the waterfront down to the museum area. About half way there, I'm greeted by a Bula (hello) and stopped by a man to chat. He's being very friendly and for a moment I forget my big city girl skills. He's asking my name and then tried to tell me I should stop by the market. I explain that I'm on my way to the museum and then he tries to give me a wood carved mask. Oh boy, I know where this is going. I'm trying to be polite and thinking to myself, this is not my first time traveling buddy. After a few minutes and him not getting the picture, I hand back the mask and turn to leave. Its at this point he actually grabs my hand and says you should come to the market to see all the items. I pull back my hand, firmly say no and walk away. All this time in my little town in Nausori and people have been so friendly...I have to say this rattled me a bit. I'm sure he was just trying to get me to buy something and make some money, but no need to grab my hand. After I crossed the street I looked back to make sure that I was not being followed and then ducked into the library to see it. Its one of the oldest buildings in the city and quite cool. Although I have to say, once inside, I could not get over how small it was. There were three rooms with books and that's it. And those rooms where maybe 15x15. Perhaps the schools have bigger libraries that the children use. From here I continued along the waterfront and went past the government house, the rugby/cricket practice fields and saw the lawn bowling club again. I tried to get a photo, but it was a bit tough. Then I went into Thursten Gardens. This is a large park and botanical gardens that was developed in the early 1900s. Its very pretty with beautiful trees and flowers, but in need of a bit of TLC. As it turns out, its a place that is more and more neglected with every coup. There were bags of trash laying around and the grass was in desperate need of some attention. At the one end near the museum is a large clock tower and veranda. Its a beautiful setting for a picnic. I wish I had food with me! I head into the museum and am quite excited about it. In the first room there are several large rafts/boats that the natives used to navigate the rivers and ocean. I'm pretty sure that the one raft is similar to the ones that Mauori's used to travel through the Pacific as well. Its literally a catamaran like raft with a large sail and a small hut like thing in the middle for a bit of shelter if needed. How this ever made it around in the Pacific is beyond me! The other raft is used in the rivers of Fiji and made of bamboo. This is actually quite cool to see and I might be able to ride one next weekend. (fingers crossed!). I then went into the next room and began to read about the ancient history of Fiji. It was quite cool. Saw old tools and bowls and things that were traded between Fijian's and Tongans. Saw old wedding clothing used by the tribes. The clothes were made out of wood which was somehow rolled out very thin and fine and then painted on with brown and black pigments. I saw the gifts often presented to tribe leaders - sperm whale teeth - they're HUGE! It was fun to understand how the country evolved. How the British arrived and then the Indians and how the country continued to develop to where it is today. It really is an interesting city with the collision of the Fijian and Indian heritage and I really like how the two cultures intermix and understand one another. They also had some recent art work on display by a local artist. It was mostly of nature and again, quite fun. Overall, I really enjoyed the museum but it was super small. I was in and out in an hour. By this time, I was quite hungry and so I headed by towards the city. On the way I ran into George. He's a guy that I met out in Levuka. Turns out he's here for a couple of months working for WWF (no, not the wrestling, the World Wildlife Fund) and he's from Vienna. We talked for about 10 min and exchanged our info. What a nice guy! He's off to the mud flats for some bird watching. I love the outdoors, but am not a fan of mud and wish him well on his day of birding.
I find the Old Mill Cottage cafe and am so glad I did! Its home cooked Fijian food and I LOVE it! I have the dalo leaves roll with some sort of meat in it (I didn't ask) and a bit of sauce on top and then have cavassa boiled, cavassa fried (both versions remind me of yuca) and then the dalo itself which is like a potato. I squeeze on the lemon which is more like a sour orange and add a little salt. I'm in food heaven! I clean my plate and have to sit back after eating to relax for a bit before moving around again. This is the most food I've eaten in one sitting since I've arrived. After this, I was off to see a couple of churches, including the Catholic one. It was so pretty and impressive sitting next to the modern office building. I was really disappointed it was locked up. Then I continued through the streets and decided to try to hit up the one flea market. On my way I get another too friendly Bula and a guy is trying to tell me where to shop. What is the deal today? I never thought I would have longed to be back in Nausori so badly with the locals I've come to recognize and the small town quiet. I've always been a city girl, but today is not my day! After getting past this guy, I make a beeline for the flea market. Finally, some quiet to just wander about and look at things. There are all sorts of things to buy and I'm half temped to pick up a hand woven mat but they are so large, I have no idea what I'd do with it. So, I leave it alone. It was fun to talk with some of the ladies at the market. Many of them were sewing right there in front of you. Tons of colorful sulus for sale! It was a nice break from the streets of Suva. From here I head back to the bus station and hunt for the bus heading to the National Stadium. There is a countrywide rugby match going on and I want in on it! I find the bus this time without too much trouble and get on. Although, I get off at the completely wrong place and have to walk about 15 min to the entrance of the stadium. Thanks Mr Bus driver man for all the help. Apparently, the Fijian hospitality does not extend to the big bad city of Suva. LOL I make it into the stadium and settle in for a few games. Its called the 7s series and there are only 7 men on the field and the games are really short and they happen quickly. I stay for a couple of matches and love how the crowd is really into their teams. Teams have come from all regions of the country to its quite cool. Its also a very messy game from all the rain. The middle of the field is all mud and it makes for some sloppy passes and tackles. Overall, I'm super glad I made it down to get in on the local vibe. Well worth the effort! From here it was a pretty easy bus ride back into downtown Suva and then on to the mini bus back to Nausori. I was so happy to be back in my town with all the smiling faces of the locals! To home from there and I ended up in bed rather early.
Sunday was a nice lazy day. I watched a movie at the house, read my Australia book and started to do a bit of plotting my way and then started my Carl Haissen book - Basket Case. So far, its awesome, thanks Uncle Joe! I had mutten again at lunch, this time cooked with onions and fried. I did not like it. So I'd like to recant my earlier statement...I don't like mutten.
So between the rugby I'm watching on TV and the local rugby, I'm now dying to get to Australia. I'm definitely going to catch a live game!
PS - so I'm not sure what's going on, but I'm having trouble uploading photos and the internet costs have gone up, so no photos today. More to come later this week for sure!
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Mamie
non-member comment
Rugby
I guess I will have to take one for the team and flirt with some rugby players in Ireland in your honor. Perhaps I'll bring a picture of you along and take pictures of you and some hot ones.