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Published: March 23rd 2013
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Hello again!
I'm on a roll - don't want to still be writing this blog when I'm back in the UK cursing the rain and complaining about fuel prices, so trying to get a wriggle on, as the Aussies would say.
My departure from Adelaide left me with mixed feelings. I was happy to move on, but the next trip was the part I had always been most apprehensive about. As most of you will know, I have never been good with high temperatures. Having fainted a few times in my teenage years and been sunburned numerous times, I've learned to treat my English Rose complexion with care. Throughout New South Wales and Victoria I had mostly managed to lay low when the mercury went much over 30. In Adelaide it was generally hotter so I suppose I got a bit more used to it. I got a good hat with a panel in the top with UVA protection and made good use of air conditioning and shade. So, how would I manage in the outback?
Well, I'm still here to tell the tale and I don't have a quirky story to tell about heatstroke or collapsing so
I'm happy to report I coped...just!
My journey started with two flights, the first to Alice Springs and the second on to the Ayres Rock Resort airport. I find it odd that although they have adopted the Aboriginal names for the areas out there, they haven't changed the name of the resort or the airport. I had book an organised trip for these few days because I knew I might struggle with the heat and I wanted to be committed to the trips and know that I would be looked after if necessary. So, the tour company picked everyone up from the airport and delivered us to our relevant hotels. I was booked into the Outback Pioneer which was the most budget version except for camping, which you will know is not my thing at all ;-)
That afternoon I joined the coach to see the sunset at Uluru. There were a few tour groups there but it wasn't too crowded and we enjoyed a glass of wine and a few nibbles while waiting for the sun to set. The sun was behind us while looking at Uluru and the colours of the rock as the light changed
were beautiful. The sunset itself was gorgeous too.
On return to the hotel I decided to use the DIY barbie where you buy the meat you'd like, then cook it yourself - an extremely hot experience which I hadn't really thought through!! It went alright and I didn't get food poisoning so I was happy.
The next day would prove to be the most challenging. I was going on the tour to Kata-Tjuta (the Olga's) which are a formation of several individual rock formations about 50km's from Uluru. The itinerary was to do two walks amongst the rocks, then drive to a lookout area to enjoy the sunset. I'd already had a note to say that the first walk would be cut short because of the high temperatures - it was officially in the high 30's but we were told it gets into the 40's amongst the rocks due to reflected heat etc. - so I wasn't too upset about that! Our coach driver and the guide were extremely keen for everyone to keep drinking their water (we'd been told to take at least 2 litres) and to keep refilling our bottles from the coach's supplies because they
didn't want anyone suffering from heatstroke or dehydration.
The first walk to the Valley of the Kings Lookout was about 2km in the mid-afternoon sun. The guide was extremely knowledgeable about the area and explained the rock formations from a scientific point of view whilst telling us about some of the Aboriginal aspects and perspectives as well, although she couldn't tell us their version of how the Kata-Tjuta came into being because no white people have ever been allowed to know that story. She led us to the lookout just stopping once where there was a small amount of shade by a tree and only one person turned back early. It was great to get closer to the rocks and see the patterns in them. The walk back to the coach seemed further than the walk out, despite being downhill and when I got back to the coach it took me quite a while to cool down and for my heart to stop racing. The walk hadn't been too strenuous in itself, but the temperatures just mess with my system. I decided not to do the second walk, as did about four others, so we sat in the shade
and chatted about our various reasons for being there etc.
The final stop was the sunset lookout. Again, drinks and nibbles were supplied and we all enjoyed the fabulous light show with the sun behind us and the rocks changing colour throughout.
The next morning I performed my own little miracle - being ready for the coach pickup at 5:30am! It occurred to me that it was probably the only time I'd been up at that time in the dark, wearing shorts and a t-shirt and still been warm! It was time for sunrise at Uluru so the coach delivered us to another lookout, we had hot drinks and made our way there following little lights along the path. The sun rose behind us and Uluru went through all shades from browns to oranges to reds. A fabulous start to the day.
I had decided that if we were given the opportunity to climb Uluru I wouldn't. Mainly because the Aboriginal people believe it is a spiritual place and request that people don't climb, but also because I don't see the appeal. Surely the magnificence of the rock is its form and colouring when viewed from a
Valley of the Winds
The hottest walk of my life! distance. There's not a lot to see from the top of it. However, when we were taken to the climb point for Uluru next it became a moot point because the climb was closed due to high winds. It's a very steep climb and they don't want any more fatalities. Apparently, 41 people have died there over the years due to slipping or trying to retrieve something they've dropped.
Our next stop was the Mutijula Walk where our guide explained a lot of the Aboriginal beliefs regarding the rock and surrounding areas. We were shown to some rock paintings which are really maps to other Aboriginals explaining where to find water and bush tucker, and a natural waterhole by the rock. He explained the geological version of how the rock was formed as well as the Aboriginal version. He also told us other Aboriginal stories explaining certain markings on the rock and some of the rock formations around it. In the morning it was a bit cooler and our walk was more leisurely so I coped with it a lot better than the day before. Our final stop on this trip was the aboriginal Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre were
Closed walk
I wasn't lying about the heat!! there were displays about the local area. We were then dropped back to our hotels where I had to check out and wait for my final coach to drive me to Alice Springs. It took about five and a half hours with a couple of short stops.
I'd heard that you have to be a bit careful in Alice Springs because they have real problems there with the aboriginal population, especially when they have been drinking. As we drove in, there were groups of aboriginal people sitting on street corners and wandering around the town, so I must admit I found it a little bit menacing. It had been a long day so I grabbed a bite to eat and had an early night so I was ready for my early pick-up the next morning to get to the airport to fly to Perth.
Overall, I'm really glad that I included the Red Centre in my itinerary. It is a unique place with the scenery being simultaneously bleak and stunning. The heat is something else and the sense of isolation would drive me mad in a very short space of time. I can't imagine living there but it's
well worth a visit.
Jo :-)
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Pam Nickson
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Fabulous!
What an amazing set of photos to record a fantastic adventure Jo. I would love to have been there. I'm so glad you achieved your dream, despite many obstacles to be overcome. I can't believe you've done it, though you have those super photos to prove it, and to remind you in future times! Your description of the journey is v honest and illuminating. It must have been quite strange to visit Uluru and then travel to Perth where most of the Brits choose to settle. Well done for coping with the heat!