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Published: December 18th 2008
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Entry by Jules Friday 12/12/08
We decided to have another lazy morning on the beach at Cottesloe, this time a little further south along the coastline. This wasn't quite so good as Thursday morning in that we had to share the beach with lots of other people!
After lunch we headed to Perth to catch up on a couple of jobs - nothing very exciting to report here I'm afraid.
On our return to Cottesloe we headed to the bar adjacent to the hostel for a couple of beers and to play some pool. Later that evening we strolled down to the beach to watch the sun dip below the horizon.
Further along the promenade, as darkness was slowly descending on the town, we noticed something fairly unusual. Hundreds of what we think are parrots were all gathering in a group of large trees in one spot. Here they were squarking and screeching to each other creating a tremendous noise.
Saturday 13/12/08
We got a reasonably early start on Saturday morning and headed to Freo (what the locals call Fremantle) in time for the ferry across to an island called Rottnest. Once on
the island we hired a couple of bikes so that we could explore. The island is fairly small and has limited motor vehicles so is ideal for cycling; the route around the island is only about 20kms long so easily achievable in a couple of hours.
All around our route we came across secluded coves and bays containing beautiful white sands and clear turquoise waters. Access to some of these bays was only achievable by boat but we did manage to stop at a few along the bike ride. The temperate has been rising steadily day by day so frequent stops were essential (and our backsides were particularly appreciative of these too). En route I noticed a sign which read 'Don't feed the quokkas. Beware of venonmous snakes'. The second part I fully understood but quokkas?? What are they? It wasn't too long before I found out. At the side of the cycle route, nibbling away at the undergrowth of a group of trees, we saw four of these animals. So, what are they? Quokkas are marsupials; small brown creatures, smaller than a wallaby, with an overall appearance similar to that of a very large rat. These creatures are
very tame having gotten used to the number of visitors to the island (many of which feed them which isn't helpful to the quokkas diet) so we were able to coax the animals across to us to get a better view of them.
The island itself is so called because of the quokkas. The Dutch discovered the island and, seeing the large rat-like creatures, decided to name the island Rottnest (or rat's nest). Clearly the Dutch were rather mistaken about the quokkas and their rightful name, which I believe is aboriginal, is back in place.
Views from the island back to the mainline are stunning; particulary those towards Perth's CBD where the skyscrapers appear stuck onto the horizon. Many of the small bays and coves are also home to the remains of various boats and ships which have come aground around the island, now slowly decaying into the sea.
For lunch we stopped at Geordie Bay, not so-called because of its population of north-easterners but home to many large boats moored in the bay and plenty of holiday homes. Rich took a bit of a dip in the sea; I managed a paddle to the knees! Just
as we were leaving Geordie Bay, I noticed a black dorsil fin in the water. Given my completely irrational fear of the creatures I immediately thought it was a shark. However, watching more closely, it was luckily revealed that it was in fact a lone dolphin (although the two young boys swimming in the sea at the time did shout out 'Shark' a couple of times!). We watched as it slowly moved closer and closer to the shore - perhaps only 6 or 7 metres from the sand - before turning back to the cove and then out to sea. What a fantastic sight, if only for a few minutes.
The return ferry to Freo was rather choppy -luckily I had already taken a travel sickness tablet which worked a treat.
Our last evening in Cottesloe was spent having a lovely meal in the Blue Water cafe whilst watching the sun go down for the last time in Western Australia.
Sunday 14/12/08
We left Cottesloe, Perth and Western Australia behind on Sunday; next stop Alice Springs. The short flight was a little bumpy, not due to turbulence from cloud cover, but from the bands of
heat over the earth.
Arriving in Alice Springs the temperature was noticably higher, although not as high as we had initially feared; around 40 degrees is fairly normal so the low 30's within which we arrived were welcomed.
We checked into our hotel, located right in the centre of town, before having a check wonder along the shopping street, aptly named the 'Mall'. We ate fairly substantial meals in the Red Ochre (Rich ordered pork spare ribs and was presented which what looked like half a pig!) to sounds of the aboriginals wondering around in the street - one guy was particularly keen on Neil Diamond although he only seemed to know the words 'Sweet Caroline, do do dah'. Allegedly the aboriginals in Alice Springs are the 'bad ones'. Aboriginals usually live in communities according to their skin colour (tribe in other words) and do not drink alcohol. When a member of the tribe is cast out then they may often end up in Alice Springs where alcohol can be purchased. Another thought could be that those living in Alice are from the Lost Generation having become adults and left their white families. Either way, the existence of these people must be pretty difficult; living on the streets, being constantly moved on by restaurants and businesses in the area whilst all the time hoards of tourists are staring at them as if they are an exhibit in a museum.
More photos to follow when we can log on to a faster computer!
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Jon
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Alice!
I've finally caught up on your blog - the WA road-trip brought back some memories. I can't believe you didn't climb the Gloucester Tree - the view from the top is amazing! Anyway, now you are in NT and a very spiritual part of Australia. Just make sure Rich doesn't take any rocks home in his pockets this time!!!