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Distance traveled 1132km/4300km(26%).Stayed 3 nights.18th May and after a quick “decamp” which for us is a fraction of the time taken by the caravanners to pack and hitch up,we did a quick restock in Carnarvon because the camper fraternity freely pass on these important tips….buy food etc., before Coral Bay as it is expensive there.Included in our shopping foray was a 1kg pack of tiger prawns from the local seafood wholesaler…a snip at $24(R150).The drive north to Coral Bay is relatively short(300kms)and we are soon trundling up the North West Coastal highway.Now…time in the campervan on the road presents real quality observation and reflection time……from an observation aspect our birding efforts continue and we have chalked up a good list including an osprey seen at the Gascoyne estuary in Carnarvon.Australia has something in the region of 900 bird species(many only found there)but the early mornings are not a chorus of bird song as we have in SA.We will probably see a greater number and variety as we head into the Kimberley region closer to Darwin.On the drive we were fortunate to spot 3 Wedge Tailed Eagles…the largest and a very impressive bird of prey found in Oz.Our bird guide mentioned that
it also feeds on carrion…they will not go hungry as we were now spotting the odd dead cow alongside the road.The countryside is challenging in terms of description and I have mulled this over for some time now and my take is……imagine the very driest summer EVER in the Karoo and you then have the image of what we are seeing.Very flat with a palette of sunburnt light and dark brown grasses and dead,dry shrubs interspersed here and there with a few lucky stubby,trees holding on for dear life to their greenery.And then,unbelievably,we spotted a few very shy,puffy clouds towards the ocean…just a reminder that in the 15 odd days we’ve been here clouds have been scarce.So when you see one(in this case three)it is a WOW moment!The mind races…..these clouds can only be contemplating their fate if they venture inland.Smartly, they stay put.Washongi at a certain point surged across the Tropic of Capricorn…..not quite summiting Everest but hey you don’t do this everyday.And so to reflection….Sue and I have both concluded that our campervanning sojourn to date has far exceeded our expectations in every aspect.Having never been hardy camping types and never spent a day in a caravan park(Sue
preferring those luxury lodges and cabins),there was always a little niggle at the back of our minds.Would we adapt?The best way to sum up our experience is bundled in a little chat we had about the “Bucketlist”(those of you who haven’t seen the movie with Jack Nicholson and Morgan Freeman…do yourself a favour,go see it and be inspired).At our age(and most on the receiving end of these blogs)it is important to start developing a bucketlist….all those things one dreams about wanting to do and experience whilst there is still gas in the tank.Well…we shoved one more thing in the bucket…..2010 will see us return to Oz and then start our journey in Darwin traveling down the east coast to Sydney.Except this time we will probably spend the full 3 months on the road doing exactly what we are doing now.As they say…….if your dreams don’t scare you they aren’t big enough.I guess a good question would be “Why Oz again”?Quick answer….huge country,beautiful scenery,outstanding campsites,speak English,friendly people and you guessed it…endless fishing possibilities.Only two other roadside snippets….firstly,we made the customary 120km stop at the Minilya Roadhouse prior to which a good marketing sign said” Don’t drive tired”.Not much character other than
large photo’s on the walls of a tropical storm that hit the area on 26th January 2009.This somewhat shattered the no rain bubble that is uppermost in one’s mind.One helluva storm with 220mm rain recorded and water everywhere..no sign of it now.Then,just short of Coral Bay a car had left the road leaving a young damsel in distress.She(a seriously pretty blonde…Sue agreed)had swerved to avoid a kangaroo which luckily hadn’t been hit adding to the roadside smorgasbord.Being the gallant,pseudo mechanic that I am,I peered into the engine and luckily another guy,who had also stopped,spotted that the battery lead had disconnected.Problem solved and off she went at great speed.A general alert to all ‘roo’s in the area would have been appropriate.Washongi eased over a gentle rise and there Coral Bay lay before us.A tiny bay fringed by the whitest sand you have ever seen and a deep blue ocean just off the beach.This truly beautiful spot is at the southern end of the Ningaloo Reef which extends 10 nautical miles seaward and covers 5000 square km’s.Now here’s the thing…you step off the beach and within 50 meters you are snorkeling in the most magnificent coral garden.Which is exactly what I did
for hours on end gazing in wonderment at the corals and huge variety of brightly coloured fish.If the Great Barrier Reef beats this then I want to see it.Sue opted for a boogie board with a round viewing bubble but claims that the rocking motion left her feeling a bit sea sick(I spent a while trying to locate the bumps which could have caused this…none).She then hopped on the special viewing boat and was blown away by what she saw.Australian fact file…..ever wondered if the Aussies have sorted the rabbit problem ever since some guy released into the wild a few pet rabbits he had imported in the mid 1860’s?Well,not quite despite throwing all sorts of viruses and other desperate measures to decimate their numbers which are sort of “contained” for now.I wonder if Australia may look a little less parched if the gazillions of rabbits hadn’t run riot multiplying and eating everything in sight?There’s another little menace threatening to mess nature’s balance and that is the cane frog which is apparently multiplying alarmingly and hopping across the country.We’ve seen signs encouraging one to dispatch any found.Don’t know much more than that but I am curious and will provide an
update.Fishing update……I love it when a plan and prophecy come together.This is fly fishing heaven and I have spent hours sight fishing to all manner of fish in less than 2 meters of water.All on fly,I caught a number of trevally(kingie’s)and a queenfish and it was thrilling to throw a popper and watch it getting smashed in the water.I lost as many as I landed and if it gets better as we head north…then it’s going to get really hot.Now here’s the thing….I have still not seen an Aussie salt water fly fisherman.These guys don’t know what they are missing…this as about as good as it gets and there is virtually no one fishing off the beach.Message for the “9 to 5 ‘ers”….sorry guys,this is where the fishing updates could get irritating.Next stop is Exmouth where the ultimate fly fishing prize awaits…..bonefish and permit.THANKS TO ALL OF YOU REPLYING TO THE BLOG WITH YOUR MESSAGES.KEEP THEM COMING.
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Wendy
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Tim and Sue Aus trip
Hi there I so enjoy receiving your travel blogs Tim - and Sue you look so relaxed. I have sent a couple of emails to telliott@iafrica.com, not sure if you have received Tim. All well here, Craig at eurosac at present so pretty quiet around here. Oliver stopped smoking, but not great, been quite sick and having x-rays (not sure why), Clinton and Rakesh also been off work. Rest of us are fine, golf day was good, seems everybody enjoyed, Craig B came 2nd with his 4-ball. Glad you enjoying Aus, it is great country and I see your plan for 2010 to return. Ciao for now, good luck with the fishing and enjoy xx