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Distance traveled 838km/4300km(19%)4 nights stayed 13th May(day ten)as we broke camp and steered Washongi out of Kalbarri for Shark Bay,about 300kms further up the coast.The first 60kms is through the Kalbarri National Park and despite many signs warning of animals,they are scarce and this isn’t anything like one of our game reserves.We did spot a few roo’s but that was it……at two of the gorge viewing sites we took walks down to the banks of the Murchison River and it was eerily quiet with only the gently whispering wind making any sound.Bird calls were few.A silent,parched land and it becomes clear why so many of this country’s creatures are nocturnal feeders.On the subject of kangaroo’s we saw far more dead ones(road kill)than those alive and merrily hopping through the scrub lands.Once out of the park it was back into the rather desolate looking farm lands.There is an air of expectation as the arrival of the winter rains are awaited.A left turn onto the North West Coastal Highway meant that we were once again pointing northwards.The countryside is flat and the roads run straight ahead as far as the eye can see.Drivers get weary and there are many signs exhorting you not
to drive tired……so,the sensible thing to do is stop at the Billabong Roadhouse like every other road user.These are strategically placed to break the journey and this one was a little gem.Inside was a wall plastered with photo’s of limbs etc., adorned with every imaginable tattoo and alongside photo’s sent by people form all corners of the globe who had visited the Billabong.What caught Sue’s eye(and one for the Book Club)was a car sticker which read “I’m so against working I wouldn’t even take a Blow Job”.Distractions out the way we sauntered on and then turned back down to the coast entering the Shark Bay region which is a World Heritage site.Briefly,Shark Bay covers 2.2million hectares and is a vast home for diverse species,some found nowhere else.Huge sea grass areas support a large dugong population.For those with time and the inclination just google “Shark Bay Western Australia” to get the full view of what it’s all about.We stopped off at Hamelin Pool to witness something that boggles the mind.In short,about 3.5 billion years ago(not sure of the margin of error)a bacteria called cyanobacteria formed stromatolites(sort of living rocks) which then gave off oxygen and…voila….evolution of life on the planet was
underway.Becaue of the high water salinity at this particular spot the stromatolites continue to flourish as the micro organism that normally noshes them can’t survive in the saline waters.One of only two places on Earth where this is happening.For the geologists in our midst this should encourage you to dig out those dusty books of higher learning?14th May saw us visit a beautiful lagoon quaintly called “Little Lagoon”.My fishing book on WA hinted strongly that this was a spot where fish would be caught.Wading about 75 meters out rather nervously due to warnings about Stonefish I had that feeling that a decent fish was there for the taking.Well….not to be as I heard a shriek from the bank behind me as Sue hooked and landed a 1kg Flathead(our Gurnard equivalent).You can imagine the comments and the pressure is building.Drop shot out fishing fly!The camp site here,as has been the case all the way so far,is immaculate and we have a superb view overlooking the bay.Camp life develops it’s own routine and rhythm and there is a subtle bonding mechanism which manifests itself in regular chit chats with neighbors in all directions.Interesting that our neighbors are French(left)and German(right)….”Pierre” and “Marie Antoinette”
as we have named them have been in Oz for 36 years and can still barely speak English.Chilli mussels delivered by them last night may be a signal of acceptance?15th May…..a 25km drive across the island and we arrived at Monkey Mia which Sue has been looking forward to as this is the spot where dolphins come to shore a few times each morning to be fed.Quite remarkabkle to witness….there are about 13 of them that come in at different times into less than two feet of water.Sue fed them on two different occasions and hasn’t stopped talking about the experience since.She has dropped this into her bucket list and plans to dedicate the rest of her life to saving dolphins!We have witnessed the most beautiful sunsets imaginable here which I can only compare against those I have been privileged to see at Kariba Lake.The photo will,hopefully,do justice.Australian fact file….the locals are very fond of extending greetings whenever you bump into them.The real problem is understanding the content of the greeting…..it is normally a guttural sort of grunt and I guess what the Aussie is saying is “How are you?” which comes out as “Rrrr ye?” or “Good day mate”
comes out as “Gid di might”.These greetings are normally delivered on the walk and are in no means to be construed as an opening line to further conversation.That’s all you get!Fishing update…..the waters around Shark Bay look too shallow with a lack of baitfish and apart from a few really small fish on fly(including two juvenile ‘cuda look alikes),it was only Sue’s fish that was worth any real mention.The fishing improves up North……that’s my story and I’m sticking to it!Next destination is Carnarvon for a night before Coral Bay.OUR AUSSIE CELL NUMBER IS 0458926559.THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO HAS SENT MESSAGES TO US VIA THE BLOG WEBSITE.WONDERFUL TO GET FEEDBACK AND NEWS!!
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