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Published: December 19th 2007
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G'day from Australia. I bet you thought we'd fallen off the edge of the planet. Well we almost have; we're in New Norfolk in the South of Tasmania, about as far as you can get from Derby, England. We spent a few days in Melbourne where we were taken in and looked after magnificently by Roslyn and Peter, who we met in China. They have fed, nurtured and looked after us like their own. In return, they endured about 800 photographs of China! We even had a tour of Peter's place of work - a Company of architects in Melbourne. I notice that the architects have designed themselves into the 28th floor, with stunning panoramic views of the city below. Something to do with good light. Nothing at all to do with gazing out of the window, copying other skyscraper designs! The office is adorned with models and photos of the Company's projects - corporate skyscrapers and sports complexes. They even do aquariums (aquaria?), though they can't be too difficult - just five panes of glass and a load of bathroom sealant - child's play really. Speaking of child's play, they must have given the design for the monster skyscraper in
Dubai to the trainee, because there is a helipad jutting improbably out from the wall just near the tapering summit of the building. Of course, it will fall off as soon as someone lands a helicopter on it.
The bikes have been repaired: a new rear wheel rim and bottom bracket for Richard's, a new front pannier rack for mine, and have conveyed us splendidly down the East Coast of Tasmania. We stopped off at Deloraine to stay with Richard and Josephine, friends of Kathy and, despite not knowing either of us from Adam, they were very generous and welcoming and we enjoyed a great evening with them. Onwards then to Launceston, where we stopped at Kathy's house and briefly met up with her son Jonathan. We eventually realised that we had met before, under less happy circumstances. Our route to the East Coast took us through Dorset - quite fitting with Bridport, Weymouth and Lulworth on the coast away to the north - though the scenery was lifted straight out of Speyside. Through beautiful rolling countryside we cycled, and through forests of myrtle and huge ferns. Echidnas were frequently seen in the verges, rooting for ants, but the
majority of the wildlife seems to be splattered onto the road. Someone should write a wildlife guide on how to identify animals from their tarmac silhouette. The birds are exotic, colourful and generally noisy: pure white cockatoos, glossy green parrots, grey parrots splashed with sulphur yellow, white bellied sea eagles. As we ride past ravens laugh - Ha, Ha, Ha, Haaaagh, and kookaburras guffaw. We rarely have a quiet night in the tent; simultaneously intrigued and terrorised by the sniffings and scratchings of unknown creatures and by the hissing and cackling of possums. I ignore Richard's instructions to go and see what it is.
The East Coast, when we met it at St Helens, was as beautiful as we had been told. Deep blue and green seas, flecked with pure white, and pale deserted beaches. We stopped at Richard and Jo's "shack" at 4 Mile Creek and enjoyed a restful day off, paddling in the Tasman Sea. When Richard and Jo generously offered us the use of their shack, we assumed that it would have minimal facilities, and arrived laden with enough water and picnic rations to feed a small army (or two Pearts), only to find a fully
functioning house. We arrived there 12 months to the day since horrendous bush fires had swept through the area. Blackened trees stood testament to the event, and locals told us of huge fire balls racing across the land, leaping 200 metres at a time and causing trees to explode.
We progressed down the East Coast, stopping off at Coles Bay to while away a day in the lovely Freycinet National Park. Further South we halted a while at Triabunna and visited Maria Island. (Thank you, Graham for this recommendation.) This lovely island was firstly home to convicts, including William Smith-O'Brien. (Your exam question today is to find out all about him.) Nowadays the island is home to forrester kangaroos and numerous birds. At the campsite that night, Richard almost precipitated an international incident; he was watching the european football results on TV, when a french guy came to ask if there were any results for France. Richard innocently asked if they played football in France. The Frenchman equally seriously answered that they did, and it was very popular. Several moments later the penny dropped. "Ah, ze engleesh sense of 'umour"
Somewhere along the way we joined up with
Australian cyclist, John, who we unfortunately lost in Runnymede, due to a navigational glitch. We were disappointed at going our separate ways without saying goodbye, but hopefully he will keep in touch. He works in mental health, so if he ever comes to England, I can think of a few people he might like to meet.
And so, here we are in New Norfolk, having enjoyed 800km of cycling through glorious scenery with warm, sunny days. We are now poised to tackle the route up the West Coast of Tassie where the weather may be less kind. We have had conflicting views on the merits of cycling the West Coast, and so have decided to do it anyway and find out for ourselves. We are planning to spend Christmas in Strahan, splashing out on the luxury of a solid roof overhead. Merry Christmas to all our readers.
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John
non-member comment
Hi Again
Hi there guys, very cool blog! Sorry, I took wrong turn at Runnymede, and lost you guys. Was fun meeting you folks. You have embarked on the most awesome adventure!!! I will keep an eye on your progress through your blog. Cheers