Adelaide and Kangaroo Island

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My trip to SA, ultimately Kangaroo Island bound, started 6am on Wednesday 7^thOctober for an early morning flight to Adelaide. Early mornings were to be the order of my holiday as it turned out.

With my 8am flight from Adelaide and the half hour gain of time into SA, I was landed, had my luggage and in a taxi in no time. I arranged to leave my luggage at the hostel before heading off to enjoy the day in Adelaide. Just as a cool change had arrived in Melbourne overnight, the weather was warming up again in Adelaide. The sun was out and it was a perfect day to head to the zoo

I had come to Adelaide a day ahead of my Kangaroo Island tour especially to see the Zoo and its main attraction, the Giant Panda’s. Adelaide Zoo is the only zoo in the southern hemisphere to house a breeding pair of the Giant Panda after male Wang Wang and female Fu Ni arrived at the Zoo late in 2009.

In the month prior to arrival Fu Ni and Wang Wang went through another breeding period and I was to find out later in the day, the Pandas would not have been on display during that time. I would have been very disappointed to have missed them, but lucky for me my visit was timed right. Visitors that day were also very lucky in that during the keeper presentation late morning, Wang Wang decided to take a 15 minute stroll through his outdoor enclosure much to the delight of us all making it very easy to get photos. Fu Ni was very content in her indoor enclosure to sit happily chewing on bamboo…

It was not known whether Fu Ni was pregnant on the day, but they certainly seemed very content. The Pandas don’t generally socialise with each other but by all accounts create their own fun and love games with their keepers. I put my head in the exhibit again before I left the Zoo in the afternoon and both Pandas were having an afternoon nap, again seeming very happy with their lot.



Adelaide zoo in general was a really nice zoo to walk around and not too crowded considering it was school holidays still in SA. Not only did I enjoy the surrounds but I enjoyed seeing new species of animal I had not seen in other zoos. The cute Capybaras’ (the world’s largest Rodent), the pink flamingo, and the rowdy and humorous Siamangs (monkeys), whose antics could be heard several enclosures away, were also a highlight of the day.

It seemed like I was in preparation for my walking trip in KI, as I had walked most of the way across town to the Zoo and I walked all the way back to the hostel in the afternoon. But I detoured briefly past the shops and then by my company’s office in Adelaide to meet a colleague as we had only ever spoken on the phone. It was lovely to meet face to face and share a cuppa. It was mid afternoon and I was ready for a rest after leaving the office, but my colleague encouraged me to walk back to the River Torrens and check out the new footbridge from the arts and entertainment precinct on the city’s edge across to the city’s home of cricket, the Adelaide Oval.

I did that later but not before a rest at the hostel. Despite my weary feet, I really enjoyed walking through Adelaide. I had forgotten its historic buildings and just how many there were throughout the city. My colleague explained to me that during a time when many older buildings in the likes of Melbourne and Perth had been demolished, when there was talk of it in SA, the locals virtually stood in front of the buildings in protest. We can be grateful for their hard work in fighting for the buildings to be saved, as the variety of historic buildings and unique red and sandstones used for building in SA, made Adelaide a nice city for just strolling before anything else.

I finished my day in Adelaide with that walk down near the new river footbridge and then dinner and a film. Then it was time to prepare and retire early for my 6:15am pick up at the hostel by Parktrek, the company taking us to Kangaroo Island

I’d wanted to travel to KI for many years but either the timing did not fit with work or I had study commitments in previous years. The tour very nearly didn’t happen this time as there were not enough booked onto the tour that was due to leave on October 12, 4 days later. But Parktrek were fantastic at doing their homework and in line with a tour they were running for a solo travellers company leaving on October 8, found extra transport and had accommodation lined up for the two of us before advising us of that our original tour could not go ahead. Even though this tour was one night less, I was never going to say no to the change. This tour had been waiting too long!

We were picked up in the extra 4WD vehicle for our tour , a Jeep Longitude rather than the Klugar we were expecting, but we were very happy with our transport and given the now famous ‘they bought a Jeep’ ad campaign, the car attracted lots of attention both within and outside our tour group.

Kangaroo Island is about 110SE of Adelaide and the early start gave us plenty of time to take the 1.5 hour trip down to Cape Jervis to meet the large Sealink ferry to carry us and our vehicles across the 15-20km trip to Penneshaw KI.

If you are considering a trip to KI, do allow at least a week to make the ferry fees worthwhile. Our fees were covered in the tour cost but at $200 return trip per car and $100 per person on top, it is not cheap transport.

Some other facts about Kangaroo Island before I get into the story of my holiday

· Kangaroo Island is 150km long and about 55km wide at its widest point – I did not realise how big the Island was. It seemed like a dot on the map

· It is Australia’s third largest Island after Tasmania and Melville island ( Northern Territory)

· Kangaroo Island was discovered in the early 1800s by Matthew Flinders and French explorer Nicholas Baudin, Despite the English and French being at war with each other at the time, the two explorers came by each other, anchored and compared notes on their exploration. As a result of their work much of the coastline of KI, as well as that SA, has beaches and other landmarks that were named in French and English in honour of the exploration of Flinders and Baudin

· Kangaroo Island is home to the luxurious Southern Ocean Lodge and was voted the worlds 3^rd best lodge in its class for 2014 – the lodge was discreetly hidden near the start of our 2^nd days walk and a stay there will set one back $2,000 per room per night

· No bees or honey are permitted to be taken onto Kangaroo Island. This is because KI is home to the worlds’ only remaining pure colony of the Ligurian Bee, after the Italians had the foresight to bring a hive of bees to the Island back in the late 1800s to help protect the genetic authenticity of the species

· No foxes or rabbits exist on Kangaroo Island after attempts to introduce them were unsuccessful. As a result the Island has a large variety of native wildlife. We saw Echidnas, Tammar Wallabies, Possums, Koalas, Goannas and some beautiful wren birds. Cape Barren geese were successfully introduced to the Island after populations on the mainland were threatened. We regularly enjoyed seeing them grazing nearby our cottage.

· Temperature on the island was about 5c less than Adelaide

· The population of Kangaroo Island is about 4,500

It was a rough and rocky ride across to Penneshaw, not a trip for carrying a hot cuppa or standing on deck admiring the scenery, but our group came through without any travel sickness thankfully. After a brief stop in Penneshaw to pick up lunch and our local wine supplies for the evening happy hour and dinners, our group of 12 women and one token but good humoured male were off to our first walk of the tour.

The walk was an easy one for our first day, 4km return across rolling hills just outside Penneshaw. It was on this walk that we saw the Tammar Wallaby, native to Kangaroo Island. The hike was to show the old farmland and the remains’ of the old homestead of one of earliest settler’s George Bates.

We did see all that but also unfortunately the earliest in the group saw what we thought were two men attempting to destroy the historic chimney with an iron bar. They took off when the saw us. We had their coats though and rang through to the ranger who could not come quickly. The guys reappeared twice when they thought no one was there. There was much apprehension and having one male in our group did not make us feel any more secure against what we thought were local vandals at the time.

Their appearance a third time, prompted a variety of calling and hooting from our group and eventually we realised that a couple of teenage boys were walking towards us. One of our guides and ladies calmly spoke to them and it was a peaceful resolution in the end. It turns out they were a couple of teenagers from Adelaide and after getting their coats back, admitted their stupidity and walked out ahead of us probably feeling very sheepish about it all.

After getting back to our vehicles it was then off to the sea lion colony.

The Australian Sea Lion Colony at Seal Bay is the third largest with over 1,000 seals. The Australian Sea lion was hunted to almost extinction but fortunately the colony at the Seal bay was protected by a local reef preventing the hunting that drove other colony’s to extinction. We were lucky to be able to walk on the beach and see the Sea Lion’s sleeping, playing and swimming while the guide talked to us about their history and feeding and breading habits. Populations are building but it is hard to relocate some to other beaches to help with breading as Sea Lions become accustomed to hunting in the same spots for their feed. The sun had come out by the time we had arrived at Seal Bay and we enjoyed our close up view of the seals before our drive of about an hour to our accommodation.

Our stay at Kangaroo Island was to be mainly focused around Flinders Chase national park. It was to be a lovely area to explore with varied scenery and wildlife and no mobile phone range for 3 days.

After dropping most of the group off at the Cape du Couedic cottages, 2 of us travelled back with Parktrek guide and host Ingrid to our home for the next 3 nights, Mays homestead and the Postman’s cottage. I had been a little envious of the seaside accommodation at Cape du Couedic, but we were very happy with our temporary home in the historic 1890s cottages just near the Flinders Chase National Park visitors centre. We were surrounded by lush open meadows and bushland. In the evening we had Cape Barren geese grazing nearby, and at sunrise some Kangaroos and their Joeys. We had some noisy Koalas in the nearby gum trees who we could hear regularly as they made their territory known with mating season approaching. We even had a friendly magpie that was used to being fed by visitors and was not shy about hopping up to our feet when we sat outside. The bird was going to be disappointed after our visit.

After enjoying our first night on Kangaroo Island we were up at first light and headed off to prepare and pack lunch at the Cape du Couedic cottages with the rest of our group before our hike for the day Hansen Bay to Kelly Hill Caves, about 12km.

We passed by the very discreet entrance to the luxury Southern Ocean Lodge just before reaching the start of our hike at Hansen Bay. We half hoped for a hot chocolate there at the end of the days hike but were informed by our guides that meals and drinks are served for lodge guests only. Clearly the discreet entrance was to discourage curious visitors from taking a closer look at the lodge.

So we began our hike to Kelly Hill caves. The day had much in store for us. In nice sunshine, we walked past lagoons and through ocean side scrubland which changed to gums and grass trees as we got closer to the end of our walk. Our morning tea stop was at Grassdale cottage, an old farm cottage from when the area was used as farm land late in the 19^th century. We were surrounded by open grassland that was always kept low by grazing Roos or Geese. The relics of historic farm equipment were left on the land for visitors to admire.

We saw varied wildlife along the way, Roos, echidnas, Wallabies and one impressive size goanna. But we were both unimpressed and fascinated by what greeted us at our lunch stop that day. Just after settling next to a shaded log near Grassdale lagoon to eat our lunch, our guides warned us a large black tiger snake was slowly moving around about 5-6 metres behind us. It was a wonder that the rate I jumped up, the snake was not startled.

However, we were able to stand well back and watch this snake slowly move around its surroundings checking for food along the way. We had moved our belongings well before, but eventually this snake had moved over the log to where we had been sitting and we could see from the way it sniffed around that it could sense something different had been on the ground. One wonders about the outcome if the snake had a sense that 13 pairs of eyes were focused on this snake for about 10 minutes as we quickly finished our lunch.

It was the first time many of us had seen a snake slowly move around its surroundings that way. We were in fear and awe at the same time but I look at the picture I have of the snake now and shudder. We only had one hours walk to Kelly Hill Caves at that point and I think we were on snake alert for much of it.

The day had become quite warm by the time we had reached Kelly Hill Caves and were glad to escape the heat into the constant temperature inside the cave of 16c.

The guided tour down into Kelly Caves showed us a variety of stalactites (from the ceiling) and stalagmites (from the ground) in all shapes and sizes. Some even looked like candle wax. We had the benefit of electric light to look at the cave highlights but the guide explained to us that after the caves had been discovered in the 1920s, the locals used candlelight to give other people tours around the caves and without the benefit of the steps and handrails that are in parts of the cave today. I asked the question about whether there was an extensive network of caves in the area. The guide indicated there mostly likely was, perhaps going right down to the southern coast near where most of our group was staying, but most of them were yet undiscovered. It might take more of the adventurous kind of the 1920s to discover these new caves via torch or candlelight. I thought there may be evidence of the caves on our walk the next day but I will leave the exploration of the new caves to those who are nimble enough to manoeuvre through our caves of the future.

After being treated to afternoon tea it was time to head back to Cape du Couedic and Admirals Arch and the NZ fur seals, who call the rocks of Cape du Coeudic their home. We were treated to spectacular coastline and the site of the arch, once we arrived. We also saw many seals of all shapes and sizes sunning themselves on the coastal rocks. They obviously knew how to avoid the rough sea pounding into the rock. I was interested to know how NZ Fur seals come to make part of Australia their home. There is also the Australian fur seal, although not at KI, and apparently the two breads can be set apart by their coloring and pitch of their calls. The cooler waters clearly suit the NZ fur seal and various colonies can be found along various parts of the Australian Coast and the South Island of NZ.

After our visit to the arch and seals, it was time to head back to the cottages for happy hour and dinner after a big day.

Then it was day 3 and the last full day of our KI holiday. Many of the group were beat after the walking of the day before so our guides were very adaptable at shortening the walks.

Our first walk of the days was along the rocky path of Snake lagoon, a shorter 4 km down to Maupertuis Bay. Despite its namesake, we were to see no snakes along Snake Lagoon. Instead we were treated to great views of the rocky creek line and surrounding hills as we made our way down to the beach of Maupertuis Bay. The closer we got the beach the more rugged the rockscape become. Many of the rocks had streaks of red, similar to what can be found at the south of Wilsons Prom in Victoria or the Bay of Fires in Tasmania. The might of the Southern Ocean was evident so we kept well away from the incoming tide as we admired our surroundings.

Then it was back to the cars and part 2 of the days hiking. Our closest encounter to wildlife that day was another possible sighting of a snake or goanna. Our game guide Cindy stuck her head down to look into the hole that we had seen it crawl into. Fortunately for Cindy it was the back of Goanna’s tail she spotted. After the day before our hearts were beating harder as she bent down to look…

Part 2 of our days walking was around part of the Platypus pools circuit, where we walked around part of a circuit to look into a number of small lagoons to try and spot Platypus. Usually Platypus can be best spotted in early morning or evening and are notoriously shy creatures at the best of times. They proved to be elusive on this day too. But we enjoyed our flat peaceful walk around the circuit admiring the clear reflection off the pools as we walked by. Although it was on this walk we saw the most evidence of the 2007 bushfire, started by lightning, that caused substantial destruction to SW Kangaroo Island,. The vegetation and wildlife have recovered well in the 8 years since though. Part of the walk took us to the new Melaleuca lookout which showed us how fire had helped along the seeds that lead to the newer Melaleuca growth we could see from the lookout. Enroute to the end of our walk at the visitors centre, we spotted Koalas and geese although a few of the group were so keen for their first good coffee in 2 days, they barely stopped to look…

We spent some time browsing the visitor centre store and enjoying a drink before heading home for a rest and shower ahead of the evening dinner and visit to Remarkable Rocks after dinner. Because my housemate Jen and I were so close to our cottage, we were able to walk from the visitors centre. We decided to walk by the Koalas who had been making the noise during our stay. We spotted 3 quite easily, so we could see the reason for so much territorial noise at night! As we walked back our cabin Jen was cheekily swooped by the same magpie that had looking at us for food each day. We had apparently walked to close to its nesting chick. Being early October I expected the magpie chick would be up and peeping at its mother for food by now. Maybe for us it was just as well it wasn’t so we could admire the rest of our surroundings in peace!

After being picked up for dinner, we enjoyed our last night on Kangaroo Island with our happy hour and dinner out near the veranda of one of the cottages. Pre dessert we then set off to enjoy sun set a short way away at Remarkable Rocks, a number of unusual large rock formations on the south coast of the Island. I am not quite sure how they came to be formed, but despite the overcast evening, the different colours of red and orange in the rocks stood out. We enjoyed looking around and posing for photos in the rocks before heading back to our cottages to enjoy dessert and sadly, packing up before our departure the Sunday morning.

On our last morning we enjoyed one last short walk to Weirs Cove, where we saw how supplies to the local residents and lighthouse cottages were brought in by ship in the 1800s and then pulled up the cliff by chain. The markings in the cliff as a result are still obvious today and we could see this the previous night whilst at Remarkable Rocks.

Then it was time to wave goodbye to this coastline and head back to Penneshaw for our ferry ride back to the mainland and then onto Adelaide Airport for our flights home.

We had seen so much in our 4 days on the Island. Even though we did not get the chance to see the walks of the NW of the island or see the gourmet regions or the honey farm, our walks had given us the chance to see views and aspects to the Island that many visitors to the Island may not see. One day I will be back to enjoy Kangaroo Island again.

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Photos

Wang Wang meandering through his outdoor enclosures

An usually close moment for these Alligators at Adelaide Zoo

The newly completed footbridge across the Torrens to Adelaide Oval

The group on our first hike - protecting the chimney that may not have been there by the end of the day had we not arrived when we did...

The chimney that nearly wasn't!

Walking back to our cars from the cottage ruins - Penneshaw in the background

Kangaroos grazing early morning, near out accommodation at May's cottage

Peaceful lagoon walking from Hansen Bay to Kelly Hill Caves

open grassland with a Roo grazing. Back in the late 1800s/early 1900s this areas was farmland

A Goanna

Grassdale cottage - our morning tea stop

Our lunchtime 'entertainment' - a black tiger snake

Inside Kelly Hill Cave

Admiring the rocks at Maupertius Bay

at Remarkable rocks

On the Platypus pools walk

Enjoying Remarkable Rocks

Melaleuca lookout

Looking back to Cape du Coeudic lighthouse as we walked away the last morning on the Island