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Published: June 15th 2017
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We have been navigating the Erie Barge Canal for the past 4 days now, and it has been a “historic” journey.
Back in the early 1800’s, most goods were transported by pack animals since there were not yet motorized vehicles or even railroads; hard to fathom in our day and age. (I can imagine 200 years from now, people will be reading about how we used “roads” and “waterways” to move things across the country because we didn’t have teleportation…ha ha!) The idea of using water to transport goods was a cost effective and more efficient system and as early as 1780, the first proposal of a man-made canal for shipping was put forth.
The original 363 mile long Erie Barge Canal was finally started in 1817 in Rome, NY and was completed in 1825. The 4’ deep by 40’ wide channel, dug mainly by hand (and I moaned about painting this boat!) was basically a ditch. There was a path for horses or mules to walk beside the channel to pull the barges, since back then, vessels were not self-propelled. Considering the depth of the canal, the maximum load a barge could carry was 30 tons (still a
whole lot more than a poor pack mule could handle!).
The canal quickly became popular, with boat traffic increasing rapidly, and by 1862 necessary alterations were made to deepen the canal to 7’; increasing the load capacity to 240 tons. By 1903, the present day Erie Barge was completed which follows a different path than the original. By this time, the majority of vessels were now self-propelled, so the canal could make use of natural waterways and lakes, leaving behind the old “ditch”.
Well, there is your history lesson for today. You didn’t know when you signed up to my blog, that you were going to become so “educated” did you?? Ha Ha!
Today, the Erie Barge Canal is not heavily used by commercial traffic (fortunate for us, that means less barge-dodging!), and it has become a pleasure boaters’ paradise. The entire canal is dotted with little towns that are very accommodating to the boating community; most of them offer free docks or walls to tie up for the night. Since entering the canal, we haven’t anchored out once. Partly because the canal is pretty narrow, offering less anchoring options, but mostly because, hey, if there is
a free dock, why not use it? Quite the change for us, after anchoring out most of this trip, to be on land every day!
The Erie Barge Canal has a total of 35 locks which carries you up and down in elevation from sea level to 565 feet above sea level. It reminds me of riding a maze of escalators in a mall; get on at ground floor, rise up to the next level, go a few miles, get on the next one, rise up again. At some point, they will also go down, but so far, the locks we have been have all taken us up, up, up. As of today, we have done 20 of them; completing the first five, called the Waterford Flight, within the first 1.5 miles.
I know after a while it may seem tiresome to be doing lock after lock. But honestly, I still am awed by the experience each time, especially when you are going up a lock. You enter this cavernous hold, deep in the shadows, with water seeping from the walls around you. The doors close behind you and you feel as if you are in a giant
cauldron. Then slowly, the water begins to rise and you glide upwards, out of the shadows, towards the sun and the blue sky.
The most impressive lock we have done was Lock 17. This lock is known for it’s status as the highest lock on this canal at 40.5 feet (although we have done bigger ones on the Tenn-Tom Waterway). It is also one of only 2 locks in North America where the entrance gate lifts up, rather than swings open. It is a slightly daunting cruising under this gate as you enter the chamber; it looks like a giant guillotine. One little slip and oops...your boat would be chopped in half! But, fortunately everything held and it was amazing to see and experience.
We started on this leg of the adventure in Waterford, NY. Because of heavy rains, the canal was closed due to high currents and so we ended up tied to the wall in this sweet little town for almost a week (as I mentioned in my last post). The best part of having to wait was that it gave our good friends, John and Deb on Alexis, and Andrew and Jack on Tranquility 2,
time to catch up. We all spent a few days provisioning, visiting, and sharing fabulous meals. (Side note: if you ever go to Waterford, visit McGrievey’s Restaurant. Their portions are very generous, reasonably priced and their chef obviously puts his heart into the dishes – ok, not literally!! The spaghetti squash with peppers, pine nuts and goats cheese…mmm!! Thank you to Jack, for treating us all – what a kind gesture!!) There were also some amazing trails close by that took you through an island state park or along the old canal system (good way to wear off all that food!) We were almost sad to have to leave.
From there, we spent the next two days traveling with these friends. It is nice to relax over a cocktail and share stories and experiences at the end of a day of cruising. Unfortunately, John and Deb had to leave us on Tuesday as they needed to be moving a little faster towards home. We, on the other hand, have slowed it right down. Sort of dragging our feet as we get closer to Dover – sucking every possible experience from this last segment of our adventure!! But happily, we
Lighthouse at St Johnsville
This was the first lighthouse constructed on the Erie Barge. It is deceiving in the picture, but it is only about 6 feet tall and is more decorative than anything. (Of course, it took me a few minutes to figure it out - you don't need lighthouses on a canal!) will get to see them again soon as their boat is docked a mile down the river from us at home.
In the last few days, we have passed a myriad of villages (I don’t think they would pass for “town” status), some of which are absolute gems. Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Little Falls, Canajoharie and Frankfort. And we have docked at Fonda, St. Johnsville, and last night, Herkimer. Today, we are aiming for Rome (doesn’t it all sound so exotic? We are such international travelers…lol), although we may travel further depending on how we feel. I am sure by now, you have figured out, that is how we roll!!
While we are more than halfway through the locks, we are not even halfway down the canal. We still have over 200 miles to go to the end of the canal, then some miles in Lake Erie. And we are determined to make every one of these last miles count. The adventure is not over yet!! (as Lukus says – it’s not over till you’re dead! And then a new one begins…)
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Tom Whitney
non-member comment
Fantastic
Now that you are almost home I can not believe that your Odyssey has almost come full circle. Likely you are not yet ready for a sequel but I and I am sure several of your readers can hardly wait. What a fantastic way to spend a year!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have a request. Once you are home and Lukus is back at school but before school starts I want to take him out for lunch (my treat) and here about your adventure. have him email me to set up a date. Enjoy your last few miles (now that you are so close that should likely be KM) and welcome home almost it must be kind of bitter sweet.