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Published: March 21st 2009
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As usual, Cem and I scrambled around in the morning and were late getting on the road. We are still too used to
working and sleeping late. Our current morning routine mostly involves figuring out how to situate the contraption
on our roof so the straps don't make a noisy racket while we are driving. Though it does sort offsets the awful
noise our car is still making. Thus settled, We beat a hasty exit from Santa Rosa on our way to Santa Fe. Once
there, I decided we had driven enough and needed a break so we checked into the Silver Saddle early - a kitchy low
-budget little adobe motel on the outskirts of town. I comforted myself with the knowledge that it was recomended
by the Lonely Planet. My whole reason for coming to Santa Fe (other than properly exploring the artsy community)
was that I wanted to see where Georgia O'Keefe lived and was inspired. Abiqiui is a small town some 50 miles north
of Santa Fe. On the way, we did make the requisite stop at the museum in downtown Santa Fe where many of her
paintings
are hung. I enjoyed seeing her work, but got that stiff feeling I always get in a hushed museums where
everyone acts pretentiously reverent. I got the feeling that Georgia herself would've much preferred to be in the
open expanse of the high desert she so loved. So off we went. Her house is a walled hacidena fronting a small and
innocous village with a charmingly beautiful adobe church. We would not even have know it was her house if not for
Napoleon Garcia. A lifelong resident, he is a self-appointed guide of Abiquiu, O'Keefe and the surrounding area, and
offers his services for a small donation. His brochure actually details his resume as a guide, historian, artist,
poet -- I think there is more but I can't remember. We sat on his unassuming front porch and it was clear from the
outset that he had his routine down. I thought we were going to get the charming rambling story and even
encouraged it with a few open-ended questions about his life in the small village. But he stayed on message about
the history of O'Keefe's house, her time there, where
you can find the places of her famous paintings. He had this
long willow branch he used to point at a cheat sheet hung on the wall about the chronology of events. If you asked
him a question he would use the willow twig to point at like a third grade teacher uses her pointer on the
blackboard. Unfortunately, I think we must've interrupted his lunch becuase the entire lecture was punctuated by
loud belches. We took mercy on him, made our donation, accepted the prettily hand-drawn maps he offered (which
late proved quite practical) and departed on our exploration of Abiquiu and the surrounding area. It was as
beautiful as O'Keefe's amazing paintings -- if you're near Santa Fe, don't miss the drive up scenic 84, Abiqui uLake
and Whiterock Overlook (see pictures). Tomorrow: Monument Valley.
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