Back East - Haddonfield Recuperation, Brooklyn Magic, and Dogs, and Jazz and Jaws

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Nashville had been a blast, but the batteries were running low and on my Spirit flight back to Philadelphia, I was looking forward to some rest and recovery back in the Carthy household in Haddonfield. Ronan collected me from the airport, and we headed back to the family homestead. We had about an hour before heading out to a local Irish bar to meet some of their friends for a few beers, nachos and chicken wings. The bar was like an aircraft hanger, very crowded for a Thursday evening, but Irish in name only. The Guinness wasn´t bad, nor the company, and in old style the ladies departed early and the lads headed to a number of venues in the suburbs till the early hours. Was happy to be in a house again, and sleep was had.

The following day rest was required as my odyssey around the States had proved exhausting, and my podiatic problems were persisting. That evening I had arranged to meet Tom Ivory, my school from primary school as mentioned in a previous blog, in downtown Philli. We had visited Brownies at the start of my trip, and it did not disappoint next time round. On our arrival, Tom had got in an early start but Ronan and I rose to the challenge. You've seen the movies, tv series with the Irish meeting for a beer from New York to San Fancisco. Well this establishment would fit into any of those. Within a few minutes we had entered into deep discussions with our new friends from Tyrone and Donegal, It is no surprise how being Irish causes envy among many who are not, it is indeed a passport to the world.The bartender recommended a restaurant close by, and after a good aperitivo, we headed to Old Glory. The cuisine right through my US journey had been wonderful up to now, but have to say this meal lacked a bit of glory, My two friends from school were now bonding, and I imagine their friendship will grow after I head back. One has a legal background, the other is an engineer, and both married American girls, have growing up kids, and I look forward to hearing how that got drunk without me. Our final pitstop was Fergies, a well-known Irish ale-house in the city, but it was no Brownies.

Saturday was an official rest day, and as all other family members had headed to the Jersey shore, it's like going to Brittas Bay or Rosslare for those who live in this part of the east. Feeling our age, and needing a break from the beer, we headed off to the multiplex to watch that great Irish actor play the man who built the bomb. The film was long, and I have a habit of dozing, but only missed a bit, and it wasn't a disappointment. New Jersey is one town, or suburb runing into the next. Gigantic shopping malls, with associated dining and drinking emporiums, it is no country for a carless man. We dropped into a nice diner on the way home, I half expected to meet Harry and Sally, the fictional character in the film hailed from my host's town. It was called Silver Diner and was founded with the idea of creating a neighbourhood gathering place serving updated American Classics with Authentic Diner Hospitality. Co-founded by Bob Giaimo and Ype Von Hengst in Rockville, Maryland in 1989, it has a fresh and local menu which involves working with local farms and distributors to provide locally -sourced ingredients with consistent quality and in large quantities. Would visit if you find yourselves in Maryland, Virginia, New Jersey or Washington D.C.

Last day in Haddonfield, it woud be difficult to leave but I'm sure the eldest son Declan would be happy to get his room back. The hospitality I received in this house will not be forgotten, and since returnng to Spain, not a day has gone by that I haven't missed the absence of masterchef Carthy. His family are blessed to have him in the kitchen, and if you ever get a chance to to taste his freshly baked almond cookies for breakfast, please do. We had the last supper in a classy local restaurant, Giumarello's, but who were a little too keen to close, and forgot to offer us dessert.

Bus to Penn Station took a couple of hours, and then hopped a subway to Brooklyn where I would be staying. On alighting from the train, I entered Latino town.The majority of bars, shops and restaurant gave the area a feel of downtown Havana or Tijuana. The place had an electric feel and I soon found my acccomodation which ivolved two seperate rooms, with a shared kitchen and bathroom. The other resident was a young Argentinian girl who was very welcoming, but sadly our paths did not cross again until my final day. Went to a local Puerto Rican shop and got a nice sandwich to eat back at base. My darling niece Sinead had moved to New York with work and was living close by. Making my way towards Bushwick where she lived, it was amazing to see many young Latinos playing handball, we should stick a few of these courts into our parks back home. My sister's daughter suggested a nice Mexican, Mesa Azteca, and we were not disappointed. Next door at 89 Wykoff Steet was Left Hand Path, in fiiting with so much of Brunswick, ultra cool and the our host was the ultimate professional .If I were young again, a job in New York and a shared place in Brooklyn would be where I would to be. A bit ironic that my niece is in Brooklyn, and her sister Saoirse is in London, cue the movie. Anyway as she had work next day , I let her head home and Frankie went to explore more of the borough as it was not time to return to my leaba. Wandering the streets on a Monday night everywhere was heaving. Trying to decide on bar, my attention was drawn to a white and green caravan which seemed to be selling something. On closer inspection with a name Brunswick Buds, it became clear to yours truly what was available. Previously, I have spoken about the wide availabily of marijuana/cannabis in all it's forms on my travels, but New York and it's surrounds topped the bill. Some people are against the idea, but I see the use in moderation far less damaging than our go to alcohol. By legalising, taxes are paid and quality guaranteed, the joint I purchased for ten dollars was of the highest. The stronger version was fifteen and I was amazed when the buyer in front of me produced five fifty dollar notes to purchase a giant bag of Brusnswick Bud's best. Needless to say, the ten dollar was sufficent for me, and I slept soundly that night.

Warriors 'come out to play'. In 1980 one Sunday night in the cinema hall of Castleknock College we marvelled at the gang who made their way from the Bronx 30 miles/48 km back to their home turf of Coney Island. Many films and series have featured this seaside barrio of brooklyn, with the ferris wheel an icon in American culture. Heading off on the Tuesday morning, I wondered whether it would hold the imagaination as it had, all those years ago. Leaving the subway I was greeted by Nathan's, probably the most famous hotdog joint on the planet. It began it's life as a nickel stand in 1916 and bears the name of its founder Nathan Handwerkerwho started the business with his wife Ida. Because the all-beef hot dogs lacked rabbinic supervsion and the meat wasn't kosher, Handwerker coined the term ¨kosher style¨. He had started working for another vendor 'Feltman's' in 1912, but when they set up, he undercut his former boss by selling at 5 cents to their 10. They have an annual eating contest on the 4th of July, and in 2018 Joey Chestnut consumed 74 hot dogs and buns for a new world record. You make your way throught the various rides down to the beach. There is a huge array of rides and for those who fancy a rollercoaster or two, this is well worth a look. The seafront is remarkably clean and plenty of bathers were taking advantage of a sunny day. You can see down to Brighton Beach which was used in the Neil Simon movie, and other beaches are spread around. My trip to Coney Island finished with a Nathan Special, nice prices and very well organized.

As I was due at the famous Birdland Jazz Club for a fice o'clock show, I headed back to my rooms. Stopping off for a coffee in the very alternative 'Til Death Coffee Shop' a communtity space where you can even work on your motorbike using community tools at the venue. They also provide a space for entrepreneurs to show off their brands, art, music, food etc., and if you fancy a little smoke it is also possible, as seating is all outside. The original Birdland first opened it's doors in December of 1949, and the name was inspired by Charlie Parker who was one of the many jazz legends like Dizzy, Thelonius, Miles among others to play at the venue. It closed it's doors on Broadway and 52nd Street in 1965 as rock and roll was here to stay. It was reborn in 1986 at 2745 Broadway, on the corner of 105th street, but after a decade the club moved back downtown to it's current location, just off Time´s Square close to the original. The 5 pm show was in the basement with a cover charge of 30 dollars and a minimum bar spend of 20 dollars, not cheap but I was treated to the best jazz in my limited experience. The main venue upstairs had a different show at 8 pm but as I was off to a show in Broadway, I couldn't do it all.

The play was called The Shark is Broken, and was a fictional account of the making of Jaws with Robert Shaw, Richard Dreyfuss and Roy Scheider stuck on a boat full of alcohol. It was co-written by the Robert´s son Ian who also stars in the play, and as it was the first night on Broadway, it was full of Jaws nerds. I really enjoyed it, but from the cheap seats the stage and actors seemed a long way away, walking throught the centre of Manhattan, my epic journey was nearly done.

Next day, I did a bit of shopping and breakfasting in magic Brooklyn before boarding a subway to JFK and my return to Madrid.

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