A Visit to "The Back Eddy"

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This is Labor Day Weekend. Probably not a good day to compete for space in Cuttyhunk. But Westport is straight across the bay from Cuttyhunk and provides almost as good a stopping-off point. We phone F.L. Tripp and confirm that they have moorings available for tonight.

The wind is still blowing from the South West so Buzzards Bay is unpleasantly lumpy and the tide is coming in. These are not sailing conditions we enjoy. But the weather forecast for the next few days is deteriorating fast, so we want to get back to the more sheltered waters inside Narragansett Bay. At least the sun is shining. This does not stop spray from splashing the entire boat when Pavane digs her bow into the bigger waves. We chug our way slowly south, with Pavane’s modified Austin Healey engine running steadily down below. We take five hours for the 25 mile trip, pushing against the tide the whole way.

We pick up one of F.L. Tripp’s moorings in the Westport River and call the launch. Here, a mooring costs the unusual amount of $47.50.

The “main event” here on the waterfront in Westport is a restaurant called “The Back Eddy”. Our guidebook tells us that here we will find a “relaxed atmosphere”. We love the place, but I would say that it best resembles a magnificently well-managed zoo. This place is wildly popular, and deservedly so. The launch service drops us at the Back Eddy dock before 6pm. The outer bar area is thronged with formally dressed people. The inside bar has people standing three deep. But there are tables available, they have an enormous staff and we are seated promptly at a table by the window. The waitress is charming, smiles a lot and contributes to the good feeling we find here. For our main course, we share cod loin served in a broth with clams, chorizo and lima beans. A superbly cooked dish. Not sure about the lima beans! ... :-) ... We also share an excellent, reasonably priced, bottle of Groth Sauvingnon Blanc.

On our mooring, half a dozen of our neighbors are cute little houseboats. We have no idea whether these are privately owned or some kind of rental plan. We are pretty sure that these little boats never leave the river entrance.

This is where we have been for the “next” few days ...
Saturday, Aug 31 - At anchor in the Kickemuit River behind Bristol RI
Sunday to Tuesday, Sep 1 to 3 - Brewers Wickford Cove Marina

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