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What does one do when coming off the amazingness that is spending the 4
thof July in Boston? Why, visit the places that presidents and future presidents lived, of course! My whole reason for staying in Cambridge was to visit the house that had once been General Washington’s headquarters during the Siege of Boston. The house was originally owned by John and Elizabeth Vassall, who were Tories (Loyalists). Their house is one of several – including that of John’s uncle Henry – that are on present day Brattle Street, once known as Tory Row. I spent part of my day walking Brattle Street and seeing the exteriors of these houses – they are privately owned and not open for tours. The only one that is a National Historic Site is the Longfellow House (formally Vassal House)-Washington’s Headquarters.
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow bought the house from the widow of Andrew Craigie when he came to teach at Harvard. Of course the Longfellows made the house their own, but in nearly every room are portraits or busts of George and Martha Washington. It is easier to show the house than try to describe it, so see the pictures for details. My two
The Longfellow House-Washington's Headquarters
Any of the side porches you can see were added on after Washington left. favorite factoids from the house were that Charles Longfellow (Henry’s eldest son) lived in 43 countries and collected tattoos – they had a picture showing his torso covered with them AND that one of the stanzas in Longfellow’s “To A Child” is about George Washington standing on the entrance hall stairs.
I returned to Washington’s Headquarters later that afternoon for the Road to Revolution walking tour which took us from the Headquarters down to the spot where Washington (supposedly) took command of the Continental Army on July 3, 1775. Brattle Street was a tense place in the year before Lexington and Concord. April 18 was not the first time General Gage had sent out soldiers to seize colonial gunpowder and weapons, and it was after one such seizure that the Patriots of Cambridge forced the Tories on Brattle Street – the rich and powerful who ran the area – to resign their posts. Most of these Loyalists then boarded up their houses and moved into Boston where the British soldiers could protect them. I don’t know if I hadn’t known it before or I just hadn’t thought about it, but the gunpowder and weapons that Gage was
seizing had been bought and paid for with money the colonists had raised themselves. I guess I always assumed that it was Crown-owned. Their anger at its seizure makes so much more sense now. The tour ended beneath an elm where, local myth says, Washington took command of his army.
Another benefit from this tour was the other woman (yes there were only two of us on the tour, it was great) mentioned going to the Adams’ site. My thoughts then went something like: “Right, John Adams was from Braintree. The last stop on the red line is Braintree. I bet I can get to the Adams’ site pretty easily.” This was true – Quincy Central station was the stop I needed. So on my last day (today), I was up and off to the Adams Historic Site – probably one of the best tours I have taken on this entire trip. The site encompasses three buildings – the birthplace of John Adams, the birthplace of John Quincy Adams, and the house that John and Abigail bought after their return to the States: Peace Field.
The “Old House and Peace Field” was my favorite,
Fanny's Parlor
Fanny - Longfellow's wife - used this room for her parlor. When Martha Washington lived here, this was her parlor. so I am just going to talk about that one. It helped that our Ranger guide Bob was very passionate about the house and the family that owned it until 1946. This house was also originally owned and built by Vassalls – Leonard Vassall, father to Henry Vassal who was uncle to John Vassal who owned Washington’s Headquarters. The Vassalls built the house in 1731, and the Adams family added on to the house as needed. Favorite fact: when Abigail wanted to add an addition in 1800 (without telling John) she wanted the ceilings to be higher, as was more fashionable, but the house is three stories, so she couldn’t raise the ceilings. Instead in the 1800s addition, she lowered the floor. I don’t have interior pictures of this house (not allowed), so I won’t insult the beautiful rooms by trying to describe them. You’ll just have to go see the house yourself. What impressed me most about this family was their long-sightedness. John and Abigail purposefully saved their correspondence – not only with each other, but all their letters – because they knew some day they would be important. John Quincy Adams took early steps to preserve the birthplaces
Entry Hall and Staircase
The staircase is original to the house. The Washington bust sits on two disks of elm. They are from the "Washington Elm" under which Washington supposedly took command of the Colonial Army. The original tree was cut down; a new one was planted in its place. and Peace field knowing that at some point people would want to visit. When they turned the house over to the National Park Service, it was under the condition that nothing be changed. Since the family had been running the house as a museum for about twenty years, everything is left exactly as they had it displayed.
When I returned to the Visitor’s Center, I crossed the street to United First Parish Church where John and Abigail Adams and John Quincy and Louisa Catherine Adams (the first foreign-born first lady) have tombs. John Quincy had the tombs of his parents put there and his son, Charles, had the crypt enlarged so that tombs could be added for John Quincy and Louisa Catherine. The woman who gave me the tour was excellent – she knew so many stories and facts and figures and – like Bob at Peace field – was very passionate. This church is a must when you get to Quincy. Just a little ways away from the church is the Hancock Cemetery – named after Reverend John Hancock – the patriot Hancock’s father – who was the minister at the church. Many of the Adams
Longfellow's Study/Washington's War Room
The chair to the left of the portrait was made from the chestnut tree mentioned in Longfellow's poem "The Village Blacksmith." family are buried here as well, and a monument to Josiah Quincy Jr. stands here, too. This got me thinking – John Adams and John Hancock grew up together. Josiah Quincy moved to (then) Braintree in 1756... I feel there is a story here...someone else is free to take it!
Upon my return to Cambridge, I took the “Hahvard” tour. Our guide, Kevin, was great. These tours are led by students – a plus in my book. He pointed out the houses that the famous alums lived in, told puns (puns worthy of my father), and had great information. The pictures will have more details.
Thus ends my summer 2017 travels! Hope you enjoyed!!
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