The Bay Of Piglets

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The last time I was in San Francisco was on a females-only-family-trip almost 2 decades ago. It was Mom, Aunty Molly, Big Sister, Middle Sister and me - quelle nightmare - picture The Joy Luck Club on amphetamines :p Mom the Chanel-clad tour-Nazi totally in competition with her spinster banker sister Aunty Molly who lived in Canada which naturally made her the SF expert - both of them nostalgically waxing lyrical about their peeps in Chinatown; whilst the 3 of us just rolled our eyes wanting to head back south to Disneyland, Marilyn Monroe's prints at Mann's Chinese Theatre and Tex-Mex. Yeah - that was one for the family albums!!! 😊


This time we were spending Christmas with Almost Spouse's family - well actually just his Little Bro - who was spending 6 months learning aikido (or was it jujitsu?) at a dojo in Berkeley. Despite the oriental-women-on-the-verge of-a-nervous-breakdown quality of my previous visit, I've always really really REALLY liked the whole Bay Area. It's just soooo beautiful and romantic! - the waters, The Bridge, those gorgeous Victorian houses in Pacific Heights, the streetcars, the steep streets, the breathtaking views, The Ferry Building, the redwood forests, the surrounding vineyards, Ghirardelli chocolates, the songs written!, the movies made! 😊


Then of course there's the food - how can the best chefs NOT gravitate here? The rolling vineyards and organic farms surrounding SF on one side, the seas - rich with fresh sealife - on the other, the Culinary Institute of America in Napa, the migration of peoples, the mingling of cultures - all add up to a stunning evolution of cuisine and cooking! But more on that later. San Francisco of course has always been the hotbed of American liberalism. I love it - their politics, the student activism, the intellectual enclaves, the Chinese female chief of police, the bravado and fun in their open displays of sexuality, the creativity, the passion - the whole vibe of the city! Yesss - 10 days here was nowhere long enough but would be just fabulous!


We stayed at the tiny Diva Hotel - it is apparently award-winning - stylish and comfortable but by no means superlux. Very centrally located off Union Square, it's just too touristy. Think I'll pick a boutique hotel in a residential area next time. We arrived via Hong Kong on the Eve of Christmas Eve. Union Square was abuzz with festive cheer and awash with christmas shoppers. I'm always a sucker for twinkly fairy lights and towering christmas trees (oh the glorious scent of fresh pine!) - I was happy!


There were only 2 things on our joint list of must-dos this trip: 1) Hit the Boxing Day (that's the 26th of Dec to some) Sales and 2) Indulge our Inner Piglets and eat out the Bay Area (ok this is getting repetitive as it's a given). Almost Spouse was also dying to visit Alcatraz. It's that Sean Connery in The Rock thing. I've been there, done that, watched the movie even; but had no memory of it - so was happy to re-visit. Oh and we also needed to pilgrim to The French Laundry and circle it's hallowed grounds 7 times whilst chanting Thomas Keller Thomas Keller Thomas Keller 😊 - even with No Reservations how could we not?


But first - Christmas Lunch. Little Bro picked us up late morning on Christmas Day and drove us the 40 minutes it took to get to his current abode - the Aikido of Berkeley dojo in Richmond - where he lived as Uchi Deshi. It's a modest house - all zen-like with crunchy gravel and bamboo trees - in a lower-income drug-pushing neighbourhood 😉 That day though all was quiet on the oriental front - peaceful almost deathly silence - everyone was away for Christmas. The Uchi Deshi lives at the dojo in total immersion of Aikido. He is apprentice, cleaner, helper, handyman, cook, caretaker and family. Little Bro's sleeping quarters was a frugal, curtained-off space with a mat on the floor. I couldn't do it in a gazillion years! I'm a yoga/pilates girl at the ashram/spa after all 😊 But Little Bro had never seemed happier. His home-cooked lunch was lovely - turkey with trimmings, biscuits and gravy and Almost Spouse's favourite pecan pie... yummmmm!!!


The next day - SALES!! Shops opened at 10 am - Almost Spouse was down there at 9 am - he's like that. I ambled down later-later. At closing time when we reconvened in our hotel room I had definitely made up for my late start. Almost Spouse RESEARCHES - he trawls the net beforehand and hunts down the best buys. He's all quality, linings and double cuffs. I'm the traditional gatherer - much less discriminate, not at all practical 😊 - Juicy, Saks, Macy's (sweats, jeans, tops, tunics, dresses, La Perla) - and lots of quirky little shops with forgettable names.


The Day After - Alcatraz. It was freezing that day - this is California?? Was it Mark Twain who said 'The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco'... I hear you! This WAS winter though and I was wrapped in my hideous duvet-coat! We picked up breakfast to go from David's Deli next door before setting off. David's Deli isn't great - nowhere near the really good diners you find in NYC. BUT it does a FANTASTIC smoked salmon and cream cheese with onion on a plain bagel. It's HUGE - enough for 3 people at least - with inches of salmon and thick slabs of cream cheese. I still dream of these bagels... 😊 Alcatraz was worth my second visit. There is such poignancy in the colourful history of the notorious inmates, the drama of all the attempted escapes, the simple pleasures of their daily lives, the wardens and their families, the American Indian occupation, the barred cells, tended gardens!, the formidable fortress-reputation, stunning misty bay-views...


We took boats, we rode streetcars and walked a LOT in SF. Always the best way. There's so much to see, stumble upon, trip over. Novelty card shops, risque bookshops, antique toyshops, eye-popping sweetshops, heady perfumeries, garden squares, hidden alleys. We also pulled on our running shoes and pounded the running track along the waterfront in the Marina District. Sunrise there is spectacular. The morning view just surreal. Uber-cool homes overlooked bobbing boats and the incomparable Golden Gate Bridge. Did the occupants know just how privileged they are?



Piglets In The Bay...

It would be impossible to sample just a fraction of the terrific places to eat in and around this city even after a year of living here nevermind 10 days! But we put our best trotters forward and gave it a shot 😊 We had huge juicy seriously good burgers (fab selection of Niman Ranch meats) at Burgermeister somewhere on or near Castro Street (I think). Fat fries and thick milkshakes accompanied our choices. Whilst there are several Burgermeisters in SF, I just really like this whole area around The Mission District - artsy, decadent, great bookshops. Then there's the wonderful Ferry Building - so much more than just a collection of restaurants. Situated on The Embarcadero it's just a beyootiful building. On the weekends the whole place buzzes with the Farmer's Market. It's a total assault on all your senses - the sights the sounds the smells the tastes the textures the dizzy EXPERIENCE of taking it all in! I wanted everything!! - antique butter churns, gorgeous runny cheeses, the oils!, fresh fresh organic everything, funky kitchenware, traditional cakestands... We had wonderful chowder at Ferry Plaza Seafood. Moved on to Out The Door, little sister to the Slanted Door - gorgeously presented and packaged spring rolls, salads, steamed buns. Grabbed a coffee and tea at Peet's Coffee & Tea - Peetniks will actually customise each order or purchase to your exact specs. Talk about service! Over at Fisherman's Wharf - it's one big chaotic tourist trap! BUT strolling around we 'snacked' on GOOD chowder in the yummiest sourdough bowl and went in search of... fresh Dungeness Crab 😊 We picked Crab House, strapped on those bibs, and seriously - didn't come up for air 😊 The fresh fresh Dungeness Crab in garlic was just AWESOME! There were soooo many other holes-in-the-walls that we just walked into. Again wonderful chinese-style Dungeness Crab in Chinatown. FANTASTIC sushi rolls - HUGE! - and seaweed salads in nameless Japanese eateries down nameless alleys. Excellent cappuccino and sandwiches at the quirky Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store. Authentic Mexican in student joints in Berkeley. Almost Spouse was in chipotle heaven 😊 Then of course there was Michael Mina's. Hushed, elegant - the service is beyond impeccable. Our dinner was very good - we ordered our courses in trios - each course prepared 3 ways - 9 tastes to experience each 😉 The wine list was jaw-dropping! The bill totally reflected this 😊


The Pilgrimage...

Also on our itinerary and not to be missed when visiting SF - the winelands. And so we journeyed across the waters. I remember really liking Sonoma from all those years ago - charming, stylish and much-less overrun by tourists. But we gave the magnificent Redwoods a miss this time as our target destination was Napa and more specifically - The French Laundry, Yountville! The premises here once housed a brothel, then a french steam laundry - hence the name - before being converted into a restaurant. The French Laundry's reputation as the best restaurant in the world is legendary of course. We were gutted at having been totally unsuccessful at securing any reservations (given the holidays AND the fact that they take bookings up to a YEAR in advance). But just touring the vegetable gardens that service the kitchen, peeking through the windows in envy 😊, and breathing in that fragrant air was almost enough. Next trip WE too will experience the US$1000 truffle tasting menu, with ingredients ranging from fresh local produce to century-old balsamic vinegar. It'll be gastronomic heaven! - a 5 hour kaiseki-style taste, texture and visual experience. Ooohh!


Where we did manage to dine though was the superb Terra in St. Helena nearby. Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani the husband-and-wife team behind Terra totally deserve all those awards hanging on the walls. The sake marinated Alaskan black cod was the BEST cod I have ever had ANYWHERE.

Other than the obvious wineries to visit and sample (and the acres of rolling vineyards to get lost in 😊), there is also a superb Dean & Deluca in Napa and - on a totally non-culinary tangent - a pretty decent factory outlet store. Lots of presents for the family were purchased here😊

All good holidays must come to an end 😞 Celebrations shouldn't have to - so New Year's Day was spent largely on the plane home 😉 Cold noodles at Hong Kong airport - our New Year celebratory meal.
Oh well - life's great variety and all...

HangLiPoh
xoxox

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Comments

[tiniz]

I hate the photo!
I look like the proverbial deer caught in headlights- oh my god, the hair!

[Debbie Nonis]

flashback ....
That's how I remember Yati. Tini I remember as being taller?