Mission of Discovery. Dana Point/San Juan Capistrano, California USA.

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Mission of Discovery



The Beach



Last year I had an opportunity to travel with my Mom and my 14 year old daughter to the California coast. My sister and her family were spending 10 days in Dana Point for a conference so Mom, Ashley and I decided to catch up with them for some time at the beach. The three of us ended up staying in San Juan Capistrano and it was during a grocery hunt that I came across the old Spanish Mission. It looked interesting, so that Sunday morning my sister and her boys joined us for a tour of the historic grounds. The time in Dana Point and San Juan Capistrano made a real impression on me and I vowed to return someday to explore the area in a little more detail.

Flash forward a year and I find myself in a wonderful relationship with a woman who enjoys the same sense of adventure and love of travel that I am afflicted with. Mickie and I have spent some time traveling domestically during parts of 2013. We have enjoyed adventures in southern California and started exploring our home state of Arizona on weekend excursions. We also started paying particular attention to churches and other places of worship that we come across on our travels. We are both very interested in history and take note of the roots of any place we visit. The religious makeup of the entire world’s population is extremely interesting to both of us and we decided to make that a focal point of our future journeys. For example we recently spent a weekend in an old Arizona mining town called Bisbee. Bisbee is a relatively small town that sits in a canyon between some very scenic mountains. We walked through the old streets lined with historic buildings and entered every church we could find. We talked with the pastor at a Lutheran church near our hotel who told us wonderful stories about the architecture of his house of worship and the early days of the settlement of Bisbee. From there we visited a stunning Catholic church that sits up the hill a ways. Much grander in scale and more ornate than the Lutheran and with an equally friendly priest who invited us to look around and take pictures. These adventures have helped hone my photography skills, which needed a lot of honing, and inspired me to start writing about our adventures.

With our new focus on visiting interesting places together and seeking out the historical and religious elements of different communities, it was an easy decision to revisit San Juan Capistrano with Mickie on a mission of discovery. Little did we know just home magical this weekend on the Pacific coast would turn out to be.

The first item of business was to secure accommodations for a weekend in Dana Point. Mickie and I are not rich by any stretch of the imagination so we wanted to find something basic, with a good location where we could sleep at night after a day of exploration. I was amazed to find availability at the Dana Point Harbor Inn in for $99 a night. Not that this was an exclusive resort style hotel, it was anything but, however the location across the street from Lantern Bay Park and the Dohney State Beach meant that we could walk to the sandy shores and explore the area with ease. It was not luxurious, but it was perfect.

The drive from Phoenix to Dana Point took a little over six hours and we checked in just after 2:00 pm on a Friday in late September. We left 110 degrees in Phoenix and stepped out into the 86 degree salt air of the coast. One deep breath in, then exhale all the stress and worries out into the atmosphere. Talk about instant relaxation. The staff at the hotel was very friendly and checked us into a second floor room of the old hotel. Dana Point Harbor Inn is a rectangular box built with a cutout in the middle for a small pool and ice machine. There was a coin operated washer and dryer in the pool area. The room doors all faced out to the walkway and parking lot and there were no elevators that I could see. My biggest concern when staying at a place like this is how quiet it will be at night. During our stay we had no trouble with noise and everyone we encountered was friendly and polite. The room was pretty spacious with a second vanity area separate from the bathroom (very handy), the furniture and television were dated but we were not really there to relax and watch TV. My only real complaint was that the shower head came out of the wall at a height equal to the middle of my back. I am not sure why old hotels always seem to have low…everything. Doors, ceilings, shower heads. Were people really that much shorter in years past?



We emptied out basic supplies out of our suitcases, got the camera ready and left to go exploring on foot. The first order of business was finding some food. We had not had breakfast or lunch so we headed a block or two away to a surfer themed bar and grill that I had visited last year. I knew where it was and remember the pizza we shared with my sister and her family was good so we gave it a try. The sun was out, puffy white clouds were rolling by in a lazy fashion and we arrived at Bubba Kahuna’s in a matter of minutes. Thankfully there is a decorative pedestrian bridge over the Pacific Coast Highway that winds through that part of Dana Point. Lunch and beverages are ordered at the counter at Bubba Kahuna’s and as we looked the menu over we were drawn to the pulled pork sandwich. We ordered one to split, an extra side of onion rings and two Shock Top beers on draught. The choice turned out to be epic! The sandwich, which featured bbq pulled pork under a dollop of cole slaw on a soft bun was simply amazing. It ended up being a race to get it into your mouth before it fell apart in your hand, but we were hungry and it was a race we won. The onion rings and fries were decedent and the light beer had a refreshing summer taste to it. Bubba Kahuna’s had treated us well and upon our return to Arizona we have attempted to recreate that amazing sandwich with pretty good success.

After a very satisfying lunch we walked back across the PCH and headed over to Lantern Bay Park. At least I am assuming we were in part of Lantern Bay Park, most of it is by the Dana Point Harbor Inn, where we were staying. We crossed the street in front of the hotel and came upon a large grassy park with palm trees, picnic tables, fire pits and cool ocean air. Beyond the park was a narrow beach that spread along the curve of Dana Point and lead out into the vastness of the Pacific Ocean. It was Friday afternoon and there were a moderate number of people out. The Nikon was at work taking some amazing images of the green grass, blue sky and ocean and white clouds. We decided to walk out along the rocks that form a breaker for the harbor and take in the view from above the water. There were several individuals or small groups fishing off the breaker and Mickie and I noticed two young boys trying their luck from the rocks. They had their fishing poles in hand and off to the side they had set their tackle box, some bait and their skateboards. We both were taken by the lifestyle a southern California coastal town offers youngsters. These boys were probably 16 years old or so and had rode their skateboards, with fishing poles in hand to the beach so they could go fish off the rocks and enjoy a sunny Friday afternoon. It would not the last time I would wish that I could have raised my kids in that beautiful beach town.

We followed the breaker back up to the shore and headed down the sidewalks along the harbor to a quaint little shopping village. It was a sunny afternoon in southern California and we were looking for some ice cream. As we walked, we learned that Dana Point was hosting the Welcome To America Elephant Parade during our visit. These elephants were not the big living ones trampling all over the beach, instead they were decorative, colorful sculptures of elephants. Each one had a theme, a name card and description and they were placed throughout the town. We saw several that weekend and had to take pictures. The colors and creativity were just amazing and younger kids were drawn to them like powerful magnets.

The harbor was full of all sorts of sailing and motorized vessels waiting to be taken back out to sea, the shops were cute and the ice cream was spectacular. The nice weather and allowed us to walk for miles and explore around the harbor and the coast before we arrived back at our hotel hours later. We were still full from our late lunch and early desert, so after a quick rinse in the shower we walked back out to the beach to enjoy the sunset.

More people were out to enjoy the evening. Fires were getting started and we saw families and friends gathered around picnic tables with watermelons, s’mores, and all sorts of selections to put on the grill. As far as I could tell alcohol was not allowed on this particular beach and there was no blaring music. Just wholesome family fun and it was just perfect for Mickie and me. We walked out onto the sand and took a spot on the beach. There we just relaxed and savored the scene around us. The sound of the ocean, the sea birds, the boats floating by, the sounds of people out enjoying the evening. We were entertained by the innocent simplicity of two young girls playing in the water. They were probably 4-5 years old and would run out towards the water together, then dart back to the dry sand when the waves came in. Sometimes their feet would get wet and the shrieks would be let out. Then they followed the retreating wave out only to dare it to try again.

On the other side of us was a young father with his son fishing from the sand. The dad may have been 30 at best and his son was probably 5. Whenever they were distracted by the fishing lines, sea gulls would land close by and try to sneak up on their supply of bait. If the son noticed it he would charge back up the sandy beach waving his arms. It was play for the boy and in a way I think it was for the birds as well. As the sun sank the dad picked up the remaining pieces of bait and tossed them to the sea gulls one by one. The moon was out and almost full as the sun set behind the cliffs north of Dana Point and the day came to an end. Mickie and I strolled back to the hotel in no particular hurry and settled in for the night. New adventures in San Juan Capistrano awaited us in the morning.



The Mission

Several years before the United States would establish their independence from British rule and long before California would join the union, Spanish missionaries established a presence along the western coast of the Americas. Their goal was to convert the indigenous populations to the Christian faith. Their methods and approach varied from location to location and were no doubt at times controversial. In many ways it was a much different world in the 15^th and 16^th centuries and there will of course be many interpretations of those events. I am conscious that there are two sides to every story and not all who perform duties in the name of religion are always pious. I believe most organized religions strive to do two things. First and foremost they want to spread the word of their beliefs and increase their numbers. It is important to the sustainability of their beliefs that people and families are continually brought on board. Secondly I believe most have an interest in doing positive work within their communities. I am a Christian and the bulk of my beliefs are based in the teachings of Jesus Christ, which at their core are about love, compassion and serving our fellow man.

In an effort to spread Christianity to the new world the Spanish empire sent out missionaries to establish Christian communities and introduce the native populations to their word of God. Today the remnants of 21 Spanish mission settlements line the California coast from San Diego in the south to up near San Francisco in the north. As I studied the California Missions prior to taking this trip I was remiss to learn that there are Mission in San Diego, Oceanside, and Ventura; cities I have visited in the past but not with the knowledge or intention of seeking out the Missions. Next year, Mickie and I plan to drive the coast from south to north exploring all 21 Mission sites.

For now, we were in San Juan Capistrano, just a 5 minute drive from our hotel in Dana Point, but a place that felt like miles away from the beach. I had been to the Mission in San Juan Capistrano the year before, so I knew basically what to expect about the historic site and the town. I was excited to share it with Mickie as I know her well, and was sure she would love it. We left Dana Point in an early morning fog that covered most of the ocean and the harbor. The Mission did not open until 10:00 am so we took some time that morning and explored the coast and the cliffs north of Dana Point. We were able to capture some stunning images of the ships in the harbor cloaked in fog from a vantage point above. It proved to be the perfect start to an amazing day.

We arrived in San Juan Capistrano about an hour before the Mission would open and set out to find some breakfast. Our goal on this trip (and it will be for future ones) was to get to know the history and culture of the destination and try to enjoy interesting and amazing food along the way. We have had tremendous luck with YELP and turned to the application that morning for some guidance. Favorable reviews for Sundried Tomatoes in the town center led us to their doorstep just as they were opening for brunch. We were greeted warmly as the first patrons of the day and lead to a beautiful and comfortable dining area with window facing the street and the ruins of the old Mission. Our waiter was a younger man, clean cut and very polite and engaging. He made conversation easily with us and offered some suggestions. When we asked about mimosas, he suggested the Watermelon or Pineapple versions. We had never heard of watermelon OR pineapple mimosas and were game to give them a try. They were nothing short of amazing. So good that upon the return to Phoenix we have since purchased some fresh watermelon chunks, puréed them up in a blender and poured them over champagne. Just as good as the ones at Sundried Tomatoes and we thank them for the inspiration. For brunch we wanted to try something new so I ordered the crab cakes, but Mickie was on the fence over a couple of selections. She kept eyeing the fried egg sandwich, which I had also noticed because it listed green chili in the description. The problem was I thought fried egg sandwich sounded too ordinary, not exotic enough and I believe Mickie was struggling with the same dilemma. We agreed that I would get the crab cakes, she would get the fried egg sandwich and even if they were terrible we would still be able to wash them down with Watermelon mimosas.

It turns out neither were terrible, in fact both were stunning culinary achievements. My crab cakes came served up on a slice of fresh tomato that seemed to have just been picked from a secret garden. The crab cake was full of taste and topped with a round poached egg. The fork hits the egg and the yolk run, then it all comes together like a perfect symphony. I know that sounds kind of sappy, but it really was that good. Not to be outdone by a silly little crab cake; the fried egg sandwich took things up a notch. Inside it had a perfectly fried egg sitting on top of an equally fresh tomato slice. It was topped with a very flavorful slice of bacon, then green chili in a mild aioli sauce that added the perfect touch of flavor to the already amazing, bacon, egg, chili and tomato ensemble. Topping things off was a lightly toasted, buttered sourdough bread with a texture that was perfect for sopping up runaway egg yolk or a stray green chili.

Conversation was light during brunch.

For the first time, I decided to take pictures of the food when it arrived, it looked that beautiful! The egg sandwich framed by the watermelon and pineapple mimosa will probably be hanging on my living room wall someday. However it was impossible to photograph the amazing taste. Subconsciously offered a prayer of gratitude to YELP later at the Mission.



We thanked the folks at Sundried Tomatoes for the excellent brunch and wonderful service, then walked across the street to the entrance of the old Mission grounds. The Mission of San Juan Capistrano was established in 1775, a year before the US Declaration of Independence. A large church was built and supporting housing and farms were established. At the height of the Missions existence it had a population of over 1000 and managed a herd of 10,000 cattle. In October 1812 a violent earthquake destroyed much of the main church and the Mission went into decline. It had a turbulent history as Mexico won independence from Spain, then California become a State. The Mission today consists of the ruins of the old church, two beautiful gardens, one in front by the ruins and the other in the center courtyard, the smaller Serra’s church, living quarters and a museum of artifacts. Entry with audio tour is remarkably just $9 per person. There is plenty to explore around the grounds and all of it is beautiful, interesting, educational and inspirational. The audio tour if full of stories about the history of the Mission, the purpose of the Mission Bells and the individuals central to the development and success of the facility. The gardens are spectacular. They are full of color and life, butterflies are common, coy ponds and lilies in the fountains provide the perfect accents to the grounds. Together Mickie and I explored the ruins, marveled at the artifacts in the museum, prayed in Serra’s Church and soaked in the natural beauty of the gardens. It was a beautiful summer day and we really didn’t want it to end.



On the Water

It was about 1:00pm when we left the Mission and took the short drive back to Dana Point. It was a beautiful afternoon and we decided to go have some fun on the water. A quick change into swimsuits at the hotel, then we took the short drive to the north end of the harbor where we found Dana Point Jet Ski and Kayak Rental. Again we were greeted by friendly staff and for a very reasonable fee allowed to take one of their jet skis out on the ocean. The water was just cold enough that neither of us wanted to necessarily jump into it, but it was refreshing as a mist when jetting across waves. The view of Dana Point was spectacular from the water and the ride was fun. At some point I asked Mickie if she wanted to drive for a bit and she answered with an emphatic YES! She was not about to jump into the cold water and there was no room for chivalry on such a small vessel, so I bent forward as flat as I could, she climbed over and I scooched back and sat up. Our successful transfer of positions was much to the amusement of other skiers out on the water that day. As soon as Mickie hit the gas I knew why she was so anxious to drive. There really is nothing for the passenger to hold on to. I tried to grab the bar behind me but it offered no sense of security, I tried to grab Mickie’s life vest but felt like I would just pull her in with me when I inevitably fell off. I even found my toes trying to anchor into the shell of the craft while we sped along. It was not a comfortable feeling at all! In fact after just 30 feet I asked Mickie if she had had enough.



We took it slower the rest of the hour on the water. As we coasted back into the harbor we spotted a sea lion in the water that swam pretty much right underneath us. The life systems of the coasts always amaze me and I try hard not to fail to recognize them. We saw sea lions, birds swarming around fishing boats and were conscious of the teaming activity beneath the surface of the ocean.

We reflected on events of the day as we headed back to the hotel for a shower and change of clothes, new adventures for dinner awaited us.



Chronic Tacos

We had consulted YELP on a couple of occasions as we thought about meal plans. Chronic Tacos had caught our eye more than once and seemed like it might be a good, affordable option for a meal at some point. We decided that our second and last night in Dan Point that we would visit the Harbor House that offered happy hour deals with an amazing view of the harbor and ocean from on top of the cliffs above Dana Point. We had seen it earlier on our morning hike and returned that evening to give it a try. Harbor House is a beautiful, upscale restaurant with interesting circular architecture and lots of glass windows with ocean views that are spectacular. Turns out happy hour is a M-F thing so we decided to just take a seat at the bar and enjoy the views with a cocktail. I am sure dinner for the both of us would have been $100 and probably well worth it, but it wasn’t the type of fine dining we were looking for. The bartending duo were interesting and friendly. One younger girl and a much older man who had been bartending for years. We were their only customers in the bar and we enjoyed some conversation with them. Eventually we took our glasses outside to the small lawn between the restaurant and the cliff and our bartender was kind enough to take a couple of pictures of us to remember the evening. Afterward we decided to seek out the kind of fine dining we were looking for. Back down the hill, past the harbor and our hotel and just up the Pacific Coast Highway was where we strolled into our very first Chronic Taco. We were not surprised that it was a somewhat messy, small establishment wedged between two other businesses that may well have been a surf board waxing shop and a psychic. Still you could smell the flavors as soon as you walked in and the staff again was friendly and helpful. I had been craving fish tacos all day so we ordered two of them and two shrimp tacos just for good measure. Once the main ingredients are in place the taco is run past the assembly line of additions and you direct the server to add the things you want. We both went with lettuce, green chili sauce, chipotle sauce and sour cream and cilantro. We sat outside with our tray of food and a coke and ate next to the noisy highway. One bite and the noise from the traffic disappeared only to be replaced by the sound of a choir singing and gentle cords from a harp somewhere in my mind. Mickie took her first bite and our eyes locked. We had found our fine dining. Since our experience at Sundried Tomatoes and Chronic Tacos I have realized something about me and Mickie. We both love interesting and unique food, we like to try new things and experience new flavors. When the food is good it will dominate our conversation during the meal. We will talk about the creativeness, the flavors, the use of one thing or another, we will talk about how we could or could not reproduce it at home. But on occasion, when the food is really, really, very good. It will not dominate the conversation at all. Because there is no conversation. We eat in reverent silence, our only communication coming from the look in each other’s eyes. That night we sat mostly in silence and devoured those poor little tacos that never really had a chance.



Bubble of Realty



Completely satisfied with our dinner experience both at the posh Harbor House and the seedy Chronic Tacos, we went back to the hotel and changed into more comfortable clothes. Most notably we changed our footwear for an evening out strolling around Dana Point. No footwear at all. We strolled out barefoot like a couple of kids, crossed the street and headed back to the park and beach. The first thing we noticed was that there was a growing amount of fog in the air and the thickness grew with every step closer to the beach. The sun, which had been bright at the hotel some 300 yards away was becoming hard to make out behind the fog. As we got to the park, families would appear out of thin air around a table of food, or standing by a fire in one of the pits. By the time we got to the sand, we could hear the waves crashing but could not see them even though they were less than 100 feet in front of us. There were many more people out and so many more voices, but you could not see the source. The effect was very surreal and unlike anything I had ever experienced before. Seasoned travelers and locals may think our awe was misguided, I am sure this foggy event happens frequently. But I would ask them to try to remember the first time they experienced walking around in this bubble of reality, where the world around you fades into and out of existence so quickly. We sat on the beach and marveled at our new environment. Out on the waves we saw the shadowy silhouette of a man on a on a paddle board as he navigated the small waves that came upon the beach. We watched him for some time and Mickie commented on how liberating it must be out there in the fog, essentially standing on the water as it rose and fell below him. I responded that he seemed quite at peace and skilled as he bobbed up and down without losing his balance. No sooner than I had finished my words and he lost control and went head first into the water. Mickie shot me a look accompanied by a smirk. Oops. My time would come however as we made our way back towards the park in the foggy darkness. Mickie stopped into the restroom and as I waited I decided to use the public shower poles to wash the sand off my feet. If you have seen these before you know that there are various nozzles positioned on a tall pole at different heights. Each nozzle has a corresponding button to activate a sharp stream of water to blast the sand off the user. Push the low button and the low nozzle activates to wash the shins and feet. Middle button for middle nozzle to get the waist and below, but leave the hair dry, top button and you get a full shower. I put one foot under the low nozzle and proceeded to push the wrong button. Lots of people were around, but the only one I knew personally was still in the bathroom, so my embarrassment was minimized as I got blasted in my head and face while looking down at my foot. I recovered quickly and went to the other side of the pole. Again, one foot out, but in the foggy darkness I hit the wrong button again and took it in the face. I decided to mask my mistake by rubbing the water in my hair and making the appearance that I meant to be rinsing off with my shirt on. I figured it would only last a minute anyway, then I could move on to my real objective of washing the sand off my feet. But it lasted much longer than expected and I was continuously soaked while I worked on the feet. Mickie emerged from the fog and found me standing there looking like a hurricane had just blown past. Here concern turned to amusement, then to outright hilarity as I explained how the shower pole had taken advantage of me. She was still laughing when we walked back into our hotel room and bed down for the night.



Stepping Back in Time

The following morning we checked out of the Dana Point Harbor Inn and thanked them for the kind service and comfortable room. We made the short drive back to San Juan Capistrano and explored the area around the old train station while we waited for Sundried Tomatoes to open again. We had already decided that the breakfast the day before was too good not to repeat. It goes against our sense of adventure and new experiences, but it was just that good. Rather than try to top it with something else we decided to enjoy it one more time while we could. San Juan Capistrano is not a very big town. The old train station is still used as a metrolink station and we found several patrons waiting on the trains to LA or San Diego. Across the tracks there is a small village of historic homes, most of which have been converted to curious little coffee shops or art houses. It was a beautiful morning as we strolled along the tree lined paths and admired the little houses. We had coffee on a porch and talked about our adventures. I tried to skip over the shower experience but Mickie wouldn’t let me. At 10:00 we were back in Sundried Tomatoes and despite ordering the same thing we had the day before, we were still completely content and satisfied. Afterward we walked to the new Basilica of San Juan Capistrano which is just north of the Mission site and ruins of the old stone church. This church was completed in 1986 and is a beautiful addition to the community. It is in the traditional architecture with the high domes and mission bells. The interior is just beautiful and inspiring and we spent some time in prayer while they set up for mass. Outside we noticed that the street lights were shaped like Mission Bells.



Takeaways

The proximity of Dana Point and San Juan Capistrano make them very easy to visit together in a single weekend, but they do stand in stark contrast of each other. Dana Point is the sleepy beach town, with green parks, sandy beaches, and beautiful vistas. San Juan Capistrano is a historic journey into the past. Walking the grounds of the old Mission takes you back to another time. It was a time when life was harder and most activities were dominated by faith and necessity. The people of both communities were friendly and welcoming. Exploring on foot was easy and were always both interesting and beautiful. After fuel, meals, hotel and an hour on the jet ski our total bill for the weekend was less than $700. The experiences, the inspiration, the stories, and the love we shared along the way will last forever.

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