Alaska Day 16 - Tok to Black Rapids Lodge

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I awake around 5am and revisit the fact I’m in my car because of the tow trucks working to get an RV on to the road. Guess it wasn’t a dream! There’s no doubt I woke because I’m cold. I reluctantly exit my car to use the facilities (the woods) hoping I don’t meet up with an early rising moose or other such creature. Returning I hate to wake anyone up but I just have to start my car to get some heat. While getting warmed up I don’t see much activity ahead so I try to doze off again once warmed enough to turn the car off but no matter how hard I try, appears I’m awake for good right now. So instead I take note of the light beginning to appear at the horizon and watch for any sign of critters. The light ever so slowly becomes a gorgeous sunrise! I venture out to the work area and note they have the stronger tow truck in place with lines attached to the RV now. I get my camera and then watch as they begin pulling. Slowly the RV begins to move. It is very interesting to see how they keep stopping to adjust the tension on various lines to position the RV as they need it to get it up on to the road. As the front end clears the soft shoulder, I realize they are about to drive the tow truck itself forward to pull it the rest of the way. As I’m relieved to think we’ll be ready to move pretty soon, the realization hits that I best wake the people in front of me as promised and get to my own car so I’m ready to move. I barely complete those steps and notice cars coming through from the opposite direction. It is exciting!!

I quickly become aware that the semi-trucker behind me is very familiar with the road to the point I suspect he is eager to pass but there’s no way that’s going to happen. I finally come across a place I can pull out and find my suspicion is correct as he honks his horn and blinks his lights in what I assume is a thank you for letting him through. I wasn’t going that slow mind you and he was courteous in keeping his distance while behind me but given his speedy takeoff once past me, letting him through was definitely the right thing to do. I’m amazed at how quickly and efficiently he gets ahead of me. Obviously helps to be that familiar with the road.

It is just past 7am as I drive toward Chicken and it is a stunning drive. At first I think wow, kinda foggy. Then I realize it’s not fog. Part of the time I am quite literally in the clouds. Other times I simply see the clouds below me in the valleys or across from me veiling the hillsides (or maybe these are mountain sides). The pictures will give you an idea of what I’m experiencing. It is amazing. I take the last steep hill into Chicken and even though I need to be hurried, I cannot pass up the chance for a cup of coffee. The Chicken Creek Café is barely opening but the coffee is ready. A Cinnamon Roll calls out to me and I am happily on my way from Chicken to Tok, a mere two hour drive. My next delight is reaching the paved highway just south of Chicken. The dramatic low cloud cover continues to astonish. As I get closer to the Alaska Highway intersection, spectacular snow-covered mountain views seem to come out of nowhere. I actually thought they were clouds at first! I believe the largest is Mt. Fairplay (elev. 5,541 ft.) though not positive. I reach the Alaska Highway and stop to call the Cabins letting them know of my plight. They are fine with me taking time when I get back to shower, etc. before checking out. They were awesome people and I highly recommend your staying at Caribou Cabins should you ever be in the area.

I make short stops along the Alaska Highway to Delta Junction for pictures or historical markers. At Milepost 1403.4, I take the turn off on Sawmill Creek Road for a wild game farm supposedly having buffalo and yaks. I find the farm (I think) but did not see any buffalo or yaks though they might have been further in such that I could not see them from the road. What I did get to see was a herd of Caribou. I spooked them when I first pulled off the road to watch but they settled with my presence and actually seemed to pose for a bunch of pictures, some of which I included in this post. As I left, there was a breathtaking view of the snow-capped mountains of the Alaska Range including the Granite Mountains so I stop again. Large clouds played with the mountain tops such that the scene varied significantly from minute to minute. I took a ton of pictures though none do justice to the site. I smell the chilly but sun-warmed air, feel a nippy breeze, hear perfect silence, and that is just a glimpse of what I experience. Incredible! In all, I likely spent ½ hr in this spot and quite literally have to push myself to move on. Along the way, I have one very close call with a dog chasing a raven. I saw the dog jumping from a distance and see it take off running after the Raven, a site to behold. Yet I missed the Raven turn in its flight and the dog continuing to chase it since I had turned my sites back to the road and driving. I note the large Raven again as it elegantly flies over the road and toward me. A glorious spectacle and then suddenly I see it, the dog still chasing the Raven as it comes flying out on to the road…too close. The dog obviously cares much more about the Raven than me and my car. That drastic recognition of potential disaster, squealing of my tires as I slam on the brakes, and then the relief as I realize I have stopped in time to avoid hitting the dog. Anybody who knows the dog lover side of me knows if it had ended differently, I would have been devastated in spite of knowing it wouldn’t have been my entire fault. I faintly hear the dog owner calling wildly from the house set well back from the road. The dog hesitates but does head back home – quite a distance. He waves a thank you (or at least that’s what I perceive) and I wave back. I give myself a few moments to regroup and then get back on the highway with a solid thank you Lord prayer.

I know I’m tired from the crazy night on the mountain last night and have a long way to go yet before I can bed down. I decide to stop taking pictures and just enjoy the rest of the drive to Delta Junction. It is more wooded than other parts and beautiful all the same. Seems like a road less traveled as I don’t have much traffic which is fine by me. Delta Junction Visitor Center turns out to be a priceless stop. It is the official end of the Alaska Highway as it seamlessly merges with the Richardson Highway to Fairbanks going North or South all the way to Valdez. I get my certificate confirming I’d driven the Alaska Highway (at least the majority of what is in Alaska, not the part in Canada) and purchase my “I Survived the Alaska Highway” t-shirt. The pictures tell the rest of the Delta Junction story – some very comical like the giant mosquito sculptures and others very informational. There are books written about the Alaska Highway Construction. It would be impossible to cover all the history encased here in this blog. You’ll just have to visit someday yourselves or grab a book to read about it.

The Sullivan Roadhouse Historical Musem is across from the Visitor Center and definitely worth a walk through. It is the original log roadhouse from 1905 which has been moved twice from its original location: once by horse and once by helicopter. The historical displays, old photographs, and stories of another time were extraordinary, some tying back to Wisconsin folk. I have included some of the history in the pictures if you are so inclined. Then, there just happens to be an ice-cream drive-in place right next to Sullivan House and I decide I deserve a large chocolate cone. It is terrific and while indulging, realize I best be moving on if I am going to make my overnight reservation.

I pass Fort Greely snapping pictures of the two tanks flanking its entrance and then continuing on my way. I’m not sure I’ll get back this way but right now, I don’t dare take any more time here. The scenery then changes to remarkable views of the Alaska Mountain Range. I can’t tell you anything about which mountains are which. I can only attest to the views being magnificent, awe-inspiring, overwhelming, etc. There is a visual of the pipeline with a display of pipeline facts but will have to save that for another day. Clouds are looking somewhat ominous and I really do want to get where I need to be before dark and in time to have a decent supper. I make one more stop when I spot a momma moose with what appears to be two youngsters near the river. They are far enough away that the picture you’ll see even magnified does not show them really well. My binoculars were great at being able to observe them for a bit. I am astounded with the Lodge at Black Rapids and so glad I have a couple of nights here. It is a unique lodge set amidst trees, mountains, and river looking in any direction - no nearby town. I get checked in, have a wonderful dinner with some great company and discussion over a beer or two and then find I am so, so done for the day. No evening stroll or anything. I swear I am asleep before my head hits the pillow!

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Photos

Front clears shoulder
Success near?

And they've got it!!
Wow - better head back to car to be ready to move!

Glad to get back to Chicken, AK
Best cup of coffee and cinnamon roll ever!

Clouds thicken
But intermittent

WOW
Clump of white is mountain head