Mexico and Central American adventure

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One of the things I love about Tulum is that every single street is named after a constellation or planet; so there’s 'Orion South' or 'Jupiter North'… and the town itself (since Mayan times) is dedicated to the planet Venus. On top of that, allegedly, the mayor of Tulum 2 years ago was called Martian. Yes, martian. That was his first name! The whole place is rather otherworldly and you can never forget about the universe around you, which is wonderful. It’s literally out of this world!



I have already had close encounters with 2 scorpions in my bedroom, one snake during a jungle trek from Mayan ruins towards a lagoon, one shark whilst snorkelling, various crocs, and a tarantula… so I’m guessing that’s almost the whole scary spectrum covered, so I can relax in the knowledge that they’re all familiar friends now. Last weekend I met an amazing elderly Mayan man who has lived in the Sian Ka’an biosphere reserve all his life. Steve Urwin, the Australian ‘croc guy’ used to come to him to learn about the way to catch and handle crocs! He was a humble, sweet man with wise eyes and no fear. It was quite a privilege to meet him.



I’ve been teaching English during the week to locals who really want to learn, which makes it fun and rewarding (despite all the pre-planning involved,) then cycing to the coast to teach yoga at weekends in a couple of pretty idyllic spots on the beach. So I’m busy, but enjoying the variety. I’ve also started going to free salsa classes on the beach since my friend Paul set me the goal of becoming a salsa queen in 2 months. I'm working on it!



The other day I went for a long walk along a beautiful stretch of almost deserted beach here, and came across a huge, plush, mansion-like building, with swinging beds and hammocks outside, a yoga studio and stunning views from every angle. A photo shoot was taking place there. Turns out it was Pablo Escobar’s house (the infamous drug barren.) Apparently when it was bought to turn it into a posh, hotel/spa, a local Mayan shaman was called in to perform ceremonies to purify the space from its previous bad karma! Funny.



I’ve decided I’m not leaving until my Spanish is perfect, I’m a salsa queen, and just to drag it out a bit, I’ve seen a jaguar in the wild. So see you all in a decade or two!



The other day, we headed to a Mayan site called Muyil; explored the ruins, trekked through the jungle to a lagoon, and then donned life jackets (not over our shoulders but through our legs like nappies, as you do and went floating downstream!) Much hilarity ensued and everyone had an incredible time. It was brilliant fun.



At another Mayan community called Muximbal, we recently went to help them plant some trees by a school they’re building. After hours of getting stuck in and muddy, we were treated to the Mayan sweat lodge ceremony called a Temazcal, (my second one) where you make offerings to the 4 directions, ask Pachamama, or mother earth for permission to enter the igloo-like, white structure, place hot coals in the middle, close the entrance and sweat it all out; detoxifying and purifying, until you emerge ‘reborn’ about an hour later. I can only say that both times I’ve done it, it was fantastically powerful, and I have utmost respect for the ceremony... after which, we dived into their private cenote; a crystal clear, underground pool of light and tunnels. That was supremely refreshing and simply magical.



The community comprises mainly of two families. The head of it, Gabriel actually grew up within the Chichen Itza complex, and was taught by his grandparents all about the sacred wisdom of the Maya. He used to find artefacts and ceramics as a child playing around, and was told they had immense value and to keep them safe. He is an encyclopedia of information, and a wonderful human being.



I have become completely immersed in the Mayan culture and have given a couple of talks on it to the others, who are now also fascinated. It’s such a rich, advanced culture with its 17 calendars (including one for the movements of Venus, another for Mars, two for this earth; one with 325 days, the other 260 days and the two are read in sync making their predictions of eclipses and events incredibly precise) gods and knowledge of the constellations and their Crystal Skulls. The Mayans also invented the ‘zero’. There is so much still to be discovered about them as the equivalent of the Rosetta stone for the Egyptians, was only discovered around 40 years ago for the Maya. I’m sure more insights into 2012 will emerge over the next few years but suffice it to say, they do not think of it as an apocalypse at all, rather a shift into a different time, in calendar terms, literally a new age.



In the meantime, I’ve been biking around Tulum and giving some environmental workshops to local kids on top of teaching English and yoga. (We hosted a fun party for our students last week which was thoroughly enjoyed by all.)



I had a free long weekend recently, so I took myself to a beautiful, rustic cabana on the beach called ‘Uno’ and spent the weekend feeling like I was in heaven, with the turquoise sea view, the waves lulling me to sleep, soaking up the sun and meeting some wonderful, free spirited individuals who live there. I also had my Mayan astrological reading done. Apparently I’m a ‘yellow rhythmic star!’ It was very detailed and all good thankfully.



I have to say I’m completely bowled over by how many great work opportunities are opening up for me here at the moment. I’ve been offered at least 5 separate yoga jobs based on word of mouth along the beach, another yoga job in Costa Rica, there are options to stay on working with GVI (Global Vision International) here or in other countries, and I have just been offered to lead an expedition through South America for VentureCo! Maybe I can do them all. Decisions, decisions! It’s a wonderful problem to have, I’m genuinely grateful for the dilemma.



One of the highlights recently has been meeting the Puc puc family. They live very close to us in a small, wooden home with no water or electricity; a family of about 11 under the one roof, sleeping in hammocks or floor spaces. 3 children in particular have become great friends as I’ve been teaching them some basic numbers and letters in Spanish (they of course don’t go to school.) These kids have the biggest, cheekiest smiles and energy to match. I have loved spending time with them….which made what has just happened almost unbearable:



One day I went to teach them as usual. As I approached the home, the elder of the 3, Marciella ran up to me crying out “el bebe se murio!” (the baby died!) Sure enough, the youngest of the family, who had been ill and away with his mother on my last visit, had passed away during the night. I was so deeply saddened to hear that; and yet, one of the powerful lessons you learn in countries like this, is that life just goes on. I provided hugs, gave piggybacks and played football with the kids as the adults got on with cooking and making preparations for the funeral. The very next day, while the funeral took place, I (with 2 friends) took them to the beach to play and I will never forget the joy on their little faces that day! They had NEVER seen the sea or been to a beach before, despite living 5 minutes away from one of the most beautiful ones in the world. They laughed and splashed and rolled around with the look of ecstasy on the faces. Nobody who was present that day will forget it in a hurry, especially given the tragic circumstances.



A day in Akumal, snorkelling with the resident turtles was another highlight. They are free to come and go but seem to like being just off the shore and sharing their home and wise, old ways with any swimmers who care to go and visit them. I highly recommend it.



Eclipses, solar or lunar don’t get ignored around here, so when the lunar eclipse began the other night, after finishing my English class, I rushed to the beach to witness it in all its glory as it turned a celestial orange and temporarily disappeared. A group of friends at ‘Uno’ had congregated with guitars and candles on the beach for the occasion, and I sat listening to their songs and admiring the changing moods of the eclipsing moon. After a while I joined a guy to walk further along the beach where a full moon party was kicking off. The atmosphere was different, almost tribal but equally special. As we approached drumming could be heard and people were dancing and drinking in full fiesta swing. Then I caught a glimpse of light on the sea and was awe struck by seeing flying lights dancing above the waves. It was kite surfers out there with special lights for nocturnal action, jumping and speeding along the surface under the mystical light of an eclipsing moon, accompanying the drumming and festivities on the shore. It was truly one of the most beautiful, striking and unexpected visions I’ve ever seen.



Ceremonies play a big part in life here, especially for the Mayans, and I am very happy to report that I have been included in many of the local sacred ceremonies held here. Fortuitously, a Mexican woman came to one of my yoga classes. She was touched by what I said during it and my “impecability” as she put it, and insisted that I come along to a ceremony at the Tulum ruins the following day. That was a dream come true, I’d been secretly hoping for such an invite. It did not disappoint one bit:



We arrived early in the morning, before any tourists turn up and when there’s something special in the dawn air. Everyone who showed up had to wear white and many were in traditional Mayan dress. The ceremony began on a spot overlooking the Caribbean with the castle of the the Tulum ruins by our side. Offerings were made to the 4 directions, the sky and mother earth, then we held hands in a circle- the only instruction being that only pure, loving, healing thoughts could be projected: to ourselves, each other, the site, the world and all living beings. The atmosphere was magical and as peaceful as we each sent out waves of love and light…Later anyone is free to offer a word or mantra or song to the proceedings, or share information, until a closing series of offerings bring the ceremony to an end. I felt enormously, humbly privileged to have been a part of it. Chloe, my Mexican friend simply said “You are here because you are meant to be here.” And the woman leading the ceremony officially invited me to all future monthly ceremonies! What a blessing.



Another weekend at a different GVI dive project site, in Mahahual, involved plenty more partying, and various crazy sports including ‘chuckanuts,’ a game involving hitting a target with a coconut, which I discovered I have a natural talent for. The base manager, Raph, is a gorgeous, interesting, worldly type with Californian surfer-type hair and lots of charisma. We clicked. I taught yoga to everyone (they willingly showed up despite hangovers and little sleep) and everyone had a brilliant, fun filled weekend.



So, it’s official: I’m staying on here in Mexico for another 10 weeks as staff with GVI here in Tulum. This place is becoming increasingly a ‘home’ to me. I am morphing, very willingly into a Tulumian, looking forward to many more adventures ahead.



Part of becoming a Tulumian involves getting to know its people. I’ve made many new friends through my students, local divers, yoga classes, GVI and generally talking to locals. One couple, Nadia and Dave who are from England but live here, diving and exploring the many cenotes, invited me to their wedding on the beach at ‘Uno’. It was a wonderful event with a very international mix and great vibes emitting all around. Weddings here, Mayan style involve are a beautiful, simple yet profound affair on the beach, barefoot, in white with mother nature as your witness. I love that.



We organized a public beach clean, on the large stretch of white near the Tulum ruins. I felt, as I walked along filling up black bags, that I’d been given the honour of cleaning up paradise! It’s simply stunning. It actually seemed really clean when we arrived, but I personally filled up 5 bags of stuff and altogether, we and the locals who joined us, collected 48 bags of rubbish! Amazing.



I had the most fantastic side trip to Cuba with my inspiring, crazy, older, American friend Tony Balis. He runs ‘Humanity.org’ check it out. See my Cuba blog for more…. I loved it.



In Noc Bec, a community about 2 hours away, we taught future tour guides some relevant English. They took us out on the trail they will do, and we gave them the relevant vocab and phrases about the local flora and monkeys and crocs that we came across. We camped by a tranquil lagoon, were fed delicious Mexican home made dishes and did some yoga at sunrise. Everyone left feeling great and that it had been a job well done.



The March equinox approached, so some of us planned a trip to Chichen Itza on the 20^th March. (The equinox actually spreads out over 3 days.) It wasn’t as heaving as I expected it to be, perhaps due to some clouds, but impressive…it was! There’s a certain majesty to the symmetry and size of the place. El Castillo, the main pyramid (and now a wonder of the world) is a perfect calendar in stone. It has 4 sides of 91 steps (364) plus the top altar (365 days) and numerology hidden cryptically at every turn. Of course it also aligns itself perfectly with the sunrise, sunset and equinoxes, which is why we were there. The famous appearance of the serpent image on the stairs manifested itself, and despite clouds, we were blessed with a little peak of it. It was quite magical, and the mind boggles at the precision required to get such effects. The atmosphere was thick with energy and anticipation. My favourite part, however, was the observatory or ‘caracol’, where the Mayans and later Toltecs, traced the movements of the planets long before telescopes appeared.



All in all, the site didn’t have the same peaceful feeling that the Tulum ruins emit, but a denser energy, perhaps because they held many human sacrifices there, who knows. We stayed on for the night show, which at its start, sent tingles down my spine and really brought the place and its incredible history to life.



Of course, the following day, the 21^st, there was the usual monthly ceremony in Tulum, with the added factors of a full moon, the 9^th anniversary of the modern ceremonies and the equinox, a powerful combination! The energy was much enhanced, and therefore our thoughts and projections too. It was a truly special and unforgettable experience. I am so grateful to have been a part of it. I jumped into the fresh sea afterwards to complete the interaction with the elements, and then headed back to base to clean the toilets. Ah the diversity of life!



On March 22^nd, my second niece, Clare Wigglesworth, was born in Spain. I wonder when I will get to meet her! My first, adorable niece Ines, age 2, got on the phone to me and said “Katelin” (how she pronounces Jacqueline) “muy lejos!” (Very far away!) My heart melted.



While my friend Tony was around, I took him to a favourite spot of mine in the Sian Ka’an reserve, called Cesiak. I led him up to the highest roof with his eyes closed and then he opened them to reveal a 360 degree view of endless deserted beach, lagoons and pure jungle behind. He laughed out loud, and then jokingly expressed his disappointment. The place has eco friendly tent cabanas, and really is my idea of heaven. As we swam in the sea, Tony said to me “I’ve been around the world, I’m twice your age, and I’m telling you, places like this don’t exist!” I loved that. Whilst there, we both wrote out our ‘bucket lists,' things we want to do or see before kicking the bucket! It was so much fun; mine included seeing Angkor Wat in Cambodia, visiting friends in Hawaii, writing and making a documentary and seeing the Northern lights and South pacific.



Of course I realise how fortunate we are to make such lists with the belief that they’ll manifest, as when I taught a recent English class covering countries of the world, I noted that only one of my 12 students had ever left Mexico (to go to neighbouring Guatemala.) I chose not to mention the number I’d been to as it seemed so unfairly out of proportion, so we played fun mental travel games and I left feeling humbled and grateful. However we can all travel in our minds any time free from all limitations, that's the gift of of imagination.



I am totally fascinated by ancient, sacred cultures, and what we can learn from them now so have been reading up endlessly on the Mayan culture, and learning a little Mayan. The most useful phrases being “Yum botik.” “Thank you” and “mishba”, the response.



A friend from Exeter uni, Richard, came to visit me. He now lives in Mexico City so we’ve planned a trip to Teotihuacan together. It was great to catch up with him and hear how mutual friend were getting along.



I was tracked down at a bar one night by the lovely Alan, who runs Casa Magna (Pablo Escobar’s magnificent house on the beach, now a spa, hotel.) He was looking for a yoga teacher there and had heard about me, so when I finished my work with GVI, I found myself teaching high profile clients in a beautiful, spacious room by the sea. One day, in-between classes there, I was sitting in a hammock out in the sun, when my phone rang. It was Bruce Parry calling from a satellite phone in the Amazon jungle, where he was filming a series. He was beginning a week long break, and before I knew it, we’d agreed to meet in Venezuela, where we would fly on to my favourite place on earth, Los Roques archipelago. I was on a plane 5 hours later.



When I asked a local friend in Tulum his opinion on whether to take wonderful opportunities that arise suddenly like that, he paused, and simply said:



“Before you know it…… you’re dead.” Enough said.



May 4^{th (be with you!)}



Back in Mexico, I went to Playa del Carmen to hang out with the other GVI staff and collect the new expedition members for the new 10 week phase: 10 boys, 6 girls; all lovely, with a perfect balance of youthful enthusiasm and laid back coolness! Gave them the base tour and took them to the beach for a meeting. Unsurprisingly, they fell in love with it.



Soon after, one Sunday between teaching two yoga classes, I discovered by email that there had been a terrible bus crash in Ecuador, and that 5 British women had been killed. They were all part of a VentureCo expedition, the one I had been offered to lead. I read the news reports to discover that Sarah Howard, 26, who was leading the expedition in my place, had been one of those killed in the crash! It’s absolutely tragic, she was by all accounts an extraordinary, kind hearted young woman, yet I also felt a huge surge of gratitude as I was faced with the ‘what ifs’ of the situation. I had made a good decision without knowing why. It was a top news story around the world. I felt I had been given ‘the gift of nearly dying’ which puts everything into perspective so clearly. As Paolo Coehlo said “An awareness of death encourages you to live more intensely.”



“The time to live fully, is now.” Marianne Williamson.



The girl’s dorm had a long, green snake find its way in through the window one day by the bed I used to sleep in! They seemed remarkably unphased by it, while I was hugely relieved that I wasn't lying asleep in my old bed dreaming when it slithered in!



I thoroughly enjoyed teaching the volunteers some basic Spanish, giving talks on the Mayans, and taking them on various trips. They included Muyil (to float down river in nappies and trek through jungles with Mayan ruins, 2 of them told me it was the best place the’d ever been,) Akumal (to snorkel with turtles,) the other GVI dive site: Pez Maya, where I took the opportunity to do my dive refresher course. Whilst submerged with the Dive Master Luke, I wrote on the slate for asking questions or communicating problems: “Show me your best somersault” which led to some fun spontaneous underwater acrobatics. The theme for a party was ‘Mayan jungle’ and everyone got into the spirit of it. "What happens in Pez, stays in Pez!"



Back at Muuximbal, we did a street clean and had the most powerful temazcal yet. Only 4 of us made it through the intense heat to the end. Their private cenote is named after the Mayan princess ‘Nic Thali’… a Helen of Troy-like story which could have led to Chichen Itza being abandoned.



We led more environmental workshops and street cleans with local kids. For the Earth day festival we made necklaces and wallets from recyclables, and got mobbed by overly enthusiastic children…. We had a few fun fancy dress parties and I continued teaching yoga in various idyllic spots on the beach. Add to that teaching English and immersing myself in Mayan culture surrounded by my dream Lara Croft location and you get the picture of what life is like living in the magical Yucatan peninsular.

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Photos

Tulum, Mexico
'Home' for the best part of a year.