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Published: December 22nd 2013
We woke this morning to the sound of dozens of howler monkeys calling to each other across the tree tops. They sound not unlike a jaguar’s growl, only more drawn out. Had we not known what they were it would have been quite unnerving. As Helen wrote in our last entry, we are in the rainforest and have been here for three days. Helen has been very brave. I have loved it.
We came here to see the Mayan ruins of Palenque. We arrived on Wednesday at 6am after a very uncomfortable 9 hour bus ride from Merida, as we stepped off the bus the heavens opened and did not stop all day. The rain god was not happy. When we checked into our forest cabin we were advised to keep our stuff off the ground ‘just in case’ the river burst and flooded our room. We are not prepared for this, I do not have a waterproof jacket - only an umbrella (so very British) and Helen only has canvas shoes. Everything is damp and smells and I think my phone has died from the humidity. We spent the first day sleeping and watching films on the laptop, it
turns out the new Wolverine movie is pretty good.
Come Thursday morning the rain had stopped and we had not been flooded. Things were looking up so we set off for the ruins.
Palenque’s Mayan name was Lakamha, meaning big water and probably more appropriate too. The entire city was built without the use of metal tools, pack animals or the wheel! It’s incredible to think so much was achieved here without rudimentary tools that we all now take for granted. Palenque is estimated to have been first inhabited around 100 BC and finally deserted 900 AD (probably because of severe drought and over-population).
The city was quickly lost to the jungle and was not rediscovered until 1746. Looking around you can see the power of nature everywhere, how so much of the city, including murals and some paint work have survived is incredible. It is also incredible to think how the jungle has been clawed back to reveal the city, we were told that only a fraction of the city is exposed and archaeologists are still discovering new areas.
As you enter through the main gate you are confronted by the ruins of a huge
palace and three temples to the right, you can hear howler monkeys calling in the distance and see toucans, humming birds and other creatures flitter through the trees. One of the highlights is the temple de la inscripiones which houses the tomb of K’inich Janahb’ Pakal who ruled the city during one of its most prosperous periods from AD 615 to AD 683. The pyramid is impressive and has stood the test of time well but it wasn’t until we reached the museum at the exit that it was apparent quite how impressive Pakal was and the significance of the temple de la inscripiones.
The museum houses a replica of Pakal’s sarcophagus (the original is still in the temple and no longer open to the public) upon which you can see the incredible and elaborate glyphic inscriptions that depict Pakal’s entire life and the history of the city before his time. From this information archaeologists have gleamed so much insight into the history of Palenque and Mayan culture that when it was discovered in 1952 it must have felt truly like hitting the jackpot. It would have been great to see inside the real tomb but I can understand
why it is prohibited. Apparently the tomb is guarded by 9 carved figures, gods of the underworld who stand like sentinel’s to protect Pakal. That would be impressive to see. I think I grew up during the wrong era, to have discovered such things sounds amazing.
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Jo worley
non-member comment
Saving your phones
Get an airtight plastic container and some rice. Keep your phones in it overnight. The rice soaks up excess moisture xxxx