A really good, albeit unplanned day :)

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3/5/09 = An unexpected day in Palenque


Arrived in Palenque at 7am with no hostel booked and no knowledge of where any hostels were - hindsight is a great thing! Wondered up a nearby street in search and then had to return to bus station unsuccessful; only option = to wait it out at station until 8/9ish when everything opened. Lucky for us, the French couple who also caught the bus here were still at the station and had a guide book of places to stat…how organised! Ended up following the middle aged couple to a cheap hostel up the road; the 40 something man carrying his big backpack, the 40 something wife wheeling along her suitcase and then me and Debs, like the 2 children trailing at the back - how v.family!


Hostel turned out to be cheapest ever, but as hauled bags up 4 flights of stairs, became obvious why. Room looked just like I imagine an olden day orphanage to look; rows of single beds in a completely plain room, with no furnature and only windows to gaze at the real world outside. Quite sad. Toilet paper wasn’t provided - apparently that was a luxury? - and you had to pay an extra 20peso for the shower...nice! Could I go without a shower for a day? When did I have my last shower?


Had the nice change of eggs and toast for breakfast, then went to sort out our trip to the ruins = the whole reason we came to Palenque. Palenque = the site of some of the best archeological ruins in the whole of Mexico. Went into the first travel agent we found to organise a trip and received the news that made me mad enough to want to hit the travel agent:
“The ruins are closed until at least the 6th May. It is another attempt to contain the spread of the swine flu by minimising tourism.” (Okay, so I’m paraphrasing a bit.)
“You’ve got to be kidding!” (That bit is not paraphrased.)

Tried not to get too upset, maybe he was fibbing; you can never be too sure with these sales man types. But when went to agent number 2..and 3…and 4 and they all said the same thing, devestation hit. The major thing to see in Mexico…the 14hr bus journey…the stay in an orphanage…and all for nothing, because there was nothing to see! Oh no. Couldn’t afford to wait around until the 6th May on the ‘chance’ it might open again; would have to miss the ruins, but what could we do now? Apart for the ruins, each of the agents said that the only thing to do in town = visit the waterfalls. Not really in the mood for water, so had a look around town instead. Was then that discovered Palenque = not a town for wondering…is a nothing town. Nothing to visit, no churches, no galleries, nothing to do, no markets, no shopping…we were stuck in a ghost town and it was only 10am.


Both miserable, so made snap decision to leave. No point in wasting now precious time stuck in a soul destroying town just because 60peso for a room. Would forfeit money and get yet another overnight bus to Merida tonight. In meantime, would have to do the waterfall trip. Had 30mins to get sorted. Booked trip, bought fruit lunch, got changed into swimwear, booked another expensive overnight bus ticket and got picked up for waterfalls at midday.


2 waterfalls to visit today and did a few pick up’s at hotels along the way. First falls = Cascades Misol-Ifa = a really large shot of water that ran off a cliff several metres off the ground; possibly the highest falls we have seen. The water shot down into a lagoon below where people swam and the whole thing was enclosed like a setting in the jungle. Despite reservations about coming, it was actually really nice and straight away, were really pleased we had come. Could see people walking underneath the cliff and so underneath the falls; we headed off to do the same. Short walk through junglesque setting, then onto the slippy wet path underneath the shooting water. Was really nice to look out through the water; like a movie. Followed the trail carefully until it terminated in a cave built into the cliff. Cool. Definitely going to meander in, until a random guy stopped me and wanted to charge me for the wonder. No way! Soon scuttled back out and back to the beginning of the trail.


Was back at the beginning that nearly had a heart attack. Some guys standing in a tree surrounding by religious looking artefacts and candles decided to set off a firework just a few metres away from us, without any warning. Heard the loud woosh as the rocket set off and we both nearly jumped as high as it, as the bang echoed across the sky. What in the…? Looked up to see them doubled over in laughter and couldn’t help but laugh too. It’s the little things like that that most remind me I’m not at home. That would never happen in England...not without someone being arrested. Even on bonfire night you have to stand a mile back form the fireworks; you’re lucky if you can see them, let alone hear them!


Back in the van then and onto the second falls = Cascades de Aqua Azul. 45min journey and v.surprised when we arrived to a mini complex. Restaurants, shops, markets, children selling things; these falls must be a pretty big deal. They were…they really were impressive, like a huge outdoor and totally natural waterpark. Nothing like Misol-Ifa, these were a collection of broad, low, tumbling falls, spread out across a lake, with hundreds of people swimming in, under and around them; there were even people walking across the tops of them. Amazing. Trip definitely worthwhile now.


90% of the people there were Mexican and it was easy to see why. If I lived in a 40º scorching hot country, I would be here everyday. Wanted to get in the water straight away, but the one thing missing from Aqua Azul, the one really important thing = a total lack of lockers or anywhere at all safe to store your things whilst wondering around park. No way could risk leaving things and strolling off; would have to find a spot to lay and wait until saw others from bus, who could hopefully trust to look after our things. Found a grassy area, lotioned up and for the first time, laid down in the full Mexican heat. Wow…Mexico is hot! Had to dip in water a few times to keep cool, but an hour later, with no sign of any of our bus people, were both fed up and eager to get in water. Wondered off to try and find people. Paraded up and down contemplating our options when a French couple called us over, guessing our predicament. They offered to watch our things whilst we went in the water and we v.happily agreed, which was another thing that made me laugh about the day. Didn’t know these people at all and could have been robbers just as much as anybody else at the park could have been, but we still happily handed over our cameras, money and phones. Ha! Sometimes, you’ve just got to trust people...and pray for the best.


Left bags and in we went; into the freezing cold water. Waded in passed the dangerous looking tree swing (that swung into water not even waist deep) and out to a rock formation in the middle of it all. All water was divided up into mini rock pools, some for swimming and some for lazing around; we went for the lazing around. Had a brief non-conversation with some Mexican kids who loved English, then returned to the bags, not wanting to make the French couple wait for us. Glad to see both them and the bags were still there and it worked out perfect, because also stumbled across an English guy who was on our bus. Made a deal to guard each others things while messed around in water and posed for an inordinate amount of photos. Walking across the top of the falls was particularly amazing. Had to fight through a tough current to cross the water, but walking along the tops of the falls was brilliant; one of those things I have never done anywhere else and might never do again…they are my favourite kinds of things.


Would have loved to have swam in more of the water, but it was 5pm and time to go. Made way back to bus thoroughly happy with trip to the falls; could have spent all day at Aqua Azul. Journey home should have been easy, but got stuck in the jungle waiting for a connecting bus that was late. Spent 45mins stationary, in a boiling hot bus, being circled by kids selling fruits and unidentifiable foods. Poor kids. They seem to work all day, everyday…I wonder if they even go to school? When finally did get going again, passed a smoking volcano (which was pretty cool) and an amazing red sunset (also really cool).


Got back to grotty little hostel at 7:30, arriving to the hottest night have felt in a long time. Sweating whilst we walked, sweating packing up, even sweating when we sat still. Unbearable. Went for food at 8:30 and sat right by the door and a fan to cool down - still sweating. Ordered the biggest jug of juice they would sell us to cool down - still sweating. Ate our tasty fajitas and forced in as much of the juice as could. Didn’t have the cooling effect, because all ice had melted before she even set the jug down on the table, but did make us v.bloated.


Waddled out well and truly full, utterly uncomfortable, and off to internet shop. Bit of time blogging, then collected bags and off to bus station at 11pm. Bus delayed - typical - and collapsed onto it just before midnight, into the haven that is air-con. I love you air-con. 9hr journey to Merida = 😞, but 9hrs of air-con = 😊.

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Photos

Impressive falls
Totally different to Misol-Ifa, but both really impressive.

Cool shot...
...of the fals anyway