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Published: September 14th 2006
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Wild Asters
They grow everywhere here in the rocks and roadsides. Sept 11 - Five years since 9/11 Sept 12/13/14
Cape Breton, Nova Scotia
We arrived in Pictou, Nova Scotia to an obvious air of excitement. We thought they were sure happy to see us but we soon found out it was because Condoleza Rice, US Foreign Secretary was about to visit there later in the day. We toured the Hector on the Quay - a museum and a replica of the boat that brought 33 Scottish families to this area in the 1773's. Conditions on the ship were unbelievably cramped and smallpox erupted causing the death of many of the children. A storm blew them back 2 weeks off course causing a severe shortage of food and water. When they finally reached Pictou area, the land was not cleared as promised and winter was setting in. I am sure every one of them wished they had never set sail.
While touring the Hector there were two teams of divers with RCMP trucks that said ""Underwater Recovery Team". We thought someone must have drowned but they were actually scanning the bottom of the harbor for bombs etc. before the arrival of Condoleza Rice.
We loaded up on groceries and
fuel and washed the red PEI dirt off the truck and headed for Cape Breton. When we arrived in NS we booked our ferrys for Newfoundland. A few hours later we found out that plan may be jeopardized by Hurricane Florence. It is to arrive about the same time we are to board and they are calling for gale force winds. We can delay a couple days if necessary and beyond that will have to scrap the NFLD part of the trip.
On the 12th we drove the scenic Cabot Trail of Cape Breton. It's a road of switchbacks climbing up and down the mountains with many views of the ocean. We stopped for a fish and chip lunch at Morrison's at Cape North. It is sporadically populated and does not appear prosperous. I think you have to be a tough old Scotsman to live here. Although, there are a number of French Acadian settlements evidenced by the town names and the Acadian flag in places. We spent the night just east of Sydney - the second largest city in Nova Scotia - awaiting the arrival of Florence.
We woke on the 13th to slight rain and a
breeze - not even as stiff as a good Saskatchewan breeze. However, the radio said south of Newfoundland, the winds were gusting to 180km and the swells were 10 meters (that's about 30 ft. folks!!). The radio also said ferry service was being delayed. About noon I phoned Northumberland Ferries and they had resumed service, but after a couple glimpses at the ocean here near Sydney, we postponed our crossing until Thursday night at 11:30pm. That will give us another day to evaluate if we are going to go or not. In the meantime we decided to visit the Cape Breton Miner's Museum in Glace Bay. What better place to be than underground during a hurricane!
Glace Bay was only about 10 minutes from where we camped in Sydney. A retired miner guided us on an hour long tour underground mine tour. His father, a miner also, died of black lung at the age of 47. It was an experience walking (crouching) through a 4 ft. coal seam. The coal seams went out under the ocean for 6 miles. But it was mainly an insight into the history of many Cape Bretoner's - a sad and tragic history. Many
Hurricane Florence
Get on a ferry today?? You must be joking!! men died in the mines from fires, explosions and collapses. The mine company also owned their houses and the stores so if the father of the family got killed they asked the mother to send the oldest son. There were a lot of 9 and 10 year old boys working in the mines. Otherwise the family was out on the street to starve. It's quite a story about all their struggles. The mines are all closed now and with the moratorium on fishing they now rely on tourism and call centers for a major part of their economy.
From Glace Bay we drove (listening to the CD of Men of the Deep) about 50km to Louisbourg on the east coast. No rain and a bit breezy there. The Fortress of Louisbourg is a National Historic site of Canada that has been reconstructed to one-fifth its original size. It was founded by the French in 1713 and was the third largest seaport in North America. It was a military stronghold to protect French interests in the region. However, it was another battle ground for the French and British with the British seizing control in 1758. To get to the Fortress
area, they bus you into a different world. You arrive into the little town inside the fortress to be greeted by costumed actors going about the business of the day in 1700. It’s like going back in a time capsule.
We decided to stay at a nice campground in Louisbourg with plans to drive to Big Pond tomorrow to Rita MacNeil's teahouse.
Then we'll decide if we are going on the ferry to NFLD. I asked an older fellow who was volunteering at a Visitor Centre if he thought it would be wise to take the ferry. He said "why shorr as its the best time to get yur sea legs" "if ya feel sick jest get a raw egg and poke a hole in the end and suck 'r down - I guarantee it'll fix ya up -- but if it don't then jus take a piece o salt pork and tie a string on it and swallow and pull it up and keep on swallerin"......... jees - I'm sick already!
PS Irma - cute Newfie joke!
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