Vancouver Island

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With the longest overland day's travel ahead of us, we made an early start from Kelowna - but only after sampling the waffles again. The first part of the journey was a long climb up into the mountains (The Cascades?) passing lay-bys where drivers were exhorted to fit on snow chains and given exit loops to allow them to turn back if conditions were difficult. Luckily, by June the snow had disappeared so we carried on regardless.

Eventually, we dropped down into cloudier skies and pulled up at the town of Hope, by the banks of an extremely swollen river Frazer. We had a brief snack and acquired a Dream Catcher from the local Native Art shop. We'll sleep peacefully in future.

After Hope, the towering mountains receded into the background and we found ourselves on the flat expanse of the Frazer river delta. And the cloud thinned out over the farmland as we passed grazing cows, hay bales and farms reminiscent of the West Country. But all the while we had the impression that the US Border was just a stone's throw away. (Not that I would engage in such terrorist activity!)

The ferry port of Tsawwassen could have been Calais on a quiet day. But I wouldn't have liked to take the ferry to Vancouver Island after dark. The boat had to thread itself between two islands on a narrow strait, while avoiding the ferry from the opposite direction! The islands were reminiscent of the Stockholm Archipelago, inhabited by comfortable (or luxurious) homes with adjoining boat houses.

After landing on the Saanich peninsula, we were driven the short distance to Victoria during the evening rush hour. The sun shone again and everything looked cosy. However, when we alighted at 'Mile Zero' we were hit with a chill sea breeze. The statue of Terry Fox was a poignant reminder of the challenges that life can throw in many peoples' paths. (Incidentally, his mother, who kept his memory alive, died while we were in Victoria.)

Our comfortable hotel was located centrally, so it was a short walk to the harbour and the imposing Empress hotel, another Canadian Pacific outpost like Chateau Frontenac, Banff Springs Hotel, Lake Louise Hotel etc. Apparently, the American engineer who oversaw the building of the railroad was so impressed with the scenery en route that he decided that, as he could not take the scenery to the Victorian gentry, then he must provide facilities for the gentry to come and see the scenery themselves!

At right angles to the hotel at the harbour mouth stood the Victoria Parliament Buildings, adorned with fairy lights at night (since 1897, they said.) So the Government of BC sits here, basking in Pacific Ocean currents, legislating for the people up in the mountains shivering in winter ice and snow. Two different worlds! There are even two time zones in BC!

We had dinner at a lively restaurant overlooking the harbour (and the fairy lights) and explored some of the plush interior of the Empress Hotel. Then next day, we drove up to Butchart Gardens, an old disused quarry converted into very attractive formal gardens, with water fountains and even a little cove with a jetty to receive the gentry. I'll leave my photos to describe the place better than I can.

Later, back in Victoria, the afternoon sun brought much warmth, so, after a tasty and inexpensive meal in Chinatown, we relaxed at a pavement cafe by the water's edge, then took a water taxi to Fisherman's Wharf. The taxi trip was entertaining. As Victoria has, perhaps, the busiest float plane airport in the world, we had to be careful not to sail across the runway when a plane was landing or taking off. So when aeroplane activity was about to take place, our taxi driver had to sail in small circles to indicate to the control tower that he was not about to cross the runway! Incidentally, float planes fly to Vancouver every half hour, and the journey takes half an hour. Shopping trip, anyone? Quite a few Canucks fans caught the flights that day to witness the hockey team lose to Boston Bruins in the last match in the series - followed by rioting (but not in Victoria).

Fisherman's Wharf was the local Venice, with floating houses attached to the jetties, and water alleyways between the rows of individually styled houses. The window box flowers added to the gaiety. I suspect folks have lots of fish suppers, with free fish as well!

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