How cool is this ... pun intended (Part 1)

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Days begin very early in Alaska at this time of the year with the sun rising around 0330 and even tho the mornings are often a soft grey & the bed comfortable, your natural inclination is to look at the sky and the landscape and then to smile and wonder.

South East Alaska is beautiful - vast and tall and wet. Most of my stay, there was a soft mist in the morning, which changed many times into rainfree days and sometimes, gorgeous blue skies - amazing since this area gets multiple feet of rain each year!

Tongass, thru which we cruised, is the largest national park in the US, which is saying something for a land that is also home to Yosemite and Yellowstone - 17 million acres of temperate rain forests, on 22,000 islands and 12,000 miles of shoreline, the Tongass is a great place to begin a kayaking & hiking apprenticeship. It is astounding to see all those trees, waterfalls, beaches and islands and not to be a little shack jawed. Australia is huge and a rich environment, but the combination of natural resources so abundantly visible makes Alaska remarkable.

Ship life runs over 24 hours and the crew works hard with a fine sense of fun to get the logistics sorted - kayaking & hiking for those so inclined, skiffs and zodiaks up and off the sin decl by crane. The ship, Wilderness Discoverer (WD) is 176 feet long and moved by two robust 500 hp diesel engines - the engines and I were well acquainted as my neat & comfy cabin sat right over them. Ships are noisy places even at night, but the consistency of the engines is strangely comforting & the benefit of earplugs meant the engines & I got along swimmingly :-)

Given the diversity of events over the week, Im theming the blogs so if people want to skip bits, they can 😊 - this one focuses on activities and challenges

Each of the seven days on the cruise brought new challenges and rewards, especially in terms of trying out new activities, in particular kayaking and hiking. My first hike was to the El Capitain caves, limestone and remote, but most remarkable for the 370 steps needed to access them via a yellow cedar walkway, the parts of which had to be helicoptored in because the terrain is so steep. The steps wind through verdant and dripping ferns and under a broken canopy of giant trees - the steps themselves are slippery and in places, free standing.

Peeps - done! Those who know me well know how much of a challenge this would have been in days past, along with the boulder scambling and splunking through the caves themselves. In the dark. The caves are unaltered and are most remarkable in that they provided evidence that native peoples have been in the region for over 10,000 years, rather than the 5,000 originally thought (although not by the native americans who have always maintained they have been in the area much, much longer - moe on this in another blog)

My first kayak was a solo Open Water effort, in which I muscled my way around a bay and used none of the instruction or an iota of common sense for a good 2 hours - LOVED IT! Interpreting the correct technique in my own way, I regaled the birdlife with some fruity language as I went backwards, sideways and around in circles for the better part of 3 km! But paddle I did, even with my paddle upside down! I had the great good fortune to meet Kirsty and her partner Linda, who took me in hand and coached me on how to use technique and commonsense more effectively. This lovely couple generously shared their time and love of kayaking with me, so that my second effort was a magical and more graceful experience over 3 hours and around 7 km. Absolutely wonderful. Mink, bald eagles and squirting clams (for another blog too!)

I will post some photos when I work out how to get the camera and the public internet to cooperate!

I am about to head off to view some grizzlies, so will post this and get back to you in a few days. Take care and be well all

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Comments

[Natalie]

Inspiring to say the least!
Oh my friend how wonderful - and yes it is now totally official - I AM JEALOUS!!!!! I can't wait to see the photos and read some more of your amazing adventures (personally - I really enjoyed your kayaking regale - it had me with a smile on my face and the odd moments of laughter as I pictured you out there on a beautiful calm, serene and clear blue water going around........and around.........and around......)! And I think your unbridled optimism is simply outstanding in the way you signed off - I am about to head off to view some grizzlies so will post this and get back to you in a few days - eeekkkkk did you forget the 'grizzlies' part?! No longer equal mixes of happiness FOR you and jealousy OF you!!! Nat xoxoxoxo

[Sandra Beecher]

What a great experience!
I'm so pleased that you are able to experience Alaska. So many people see the inland passage and miss the real Alaska.

[lorraine]

Watch those bears
Sounds like you're having fun and are obscenely fit, i am depressed. Look forward to your blogs about future adventures.