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Published: December 30th 2008
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San'a Yemen.
I arrived in the dark to the sight of the famous tower houses in the old walled city. It is the world's oldest city and considered by some to be the most beautiful. The oldest house was built 2000 years ago. The houses are like medieval sky scrapers. The walls are embossed with thick concrete in geometric patterns. The windows have an arch of coloured glass over them. Quite romantic and exotic. It is still, however, littered with rubbish.
I am staying in the old town in Dawood Hotel for $22 with outside bathroom on the 4th floor . The steps are very high and steep which pains my poor hips especially when I forget something and have to climb up again. The rooms are tastefully decorated with interesting artifacts and cushions. In the evenings the staff put frankincense in the rooms. I particularly like my room in the mornings when the sun shine through the coloured glass.
After exploring the souks and galleries I went to a hammam. The entrance was just a hole in the wall and down some steps where there was a scrap metal door. I opened it to what looked like a dirty
dungeon with some bodies in various states of undress. A woman came over and with hand signals she showed me what to do. Basically to take my clothes off and put on an elasticated sort of dress and was given a mit and a cup as a scoop and went into the steam room. There were a couple of girls who gave me some mud to put on my face and we waited to sweat and then washed ourselves. They actually shampooed my hair and scooped water over me - I felt like a baby. Anyway it was quite a good experience although it was a scruffy place.
All women are completely covered so I have had to buy myself an outfit.
The Yemeni people are are so friendly and kind. They will happily help you in any way they can. The first night I met 5 friendly British Muslims from Manchester mostly called Mohammed who invited me to convert. They were here to learn Arabic, The youngest was only 11.
The next morning at breakfast I met a charming fellow Oscar who is also a staunch Muslim from Manchester. He is extremely well travelled and knowledgeable. It was interesting
to talk with him. His parents originated from Pakistan and he is a doctor. The next day I went with him and Dale, a Canadian working in Egypt, to the villages of Thulla, Shibam and Kawkaban.
They are most amazing villages and I can't begin to describe them. Kawkaban is about 3000mts high and I felt the lack of oxygen. We hiked down to Shibam and some cheeky kids threw some stones at us. In Thulla however mich you tried to look around you always ended up in a gift shop.There were some lovely old houses and mosques but the setting in the mountains is what made it.
I had to go to the police to get a travel permit and while I was there I mentioned to the chief that I had to pay $100 for the visa at the border. He said that that was wrong, it should only have been $60 and to email him to report this.
Today I have been wandering around San'a. Just out of curiosity I went to the see most expensive hotel in the city- the Movenpick. It is very large, very grand and very boring. It was like a mausoleum and
Artistic Sana'a
Photos taken by Dale just no one there. Across the road was the British Embassy which was all barriers and bomb proofing. Many soldiers and police cars parked around with guns pointing at you. As I walked past they called out after me to stop. They called me back just to ask if they could help me. So I got them to stop a taxi for me.
My camera battery has been flat ever since I have been in the Yemen and am frustrated at not being able to take pictures. Dale is a good photographer and has promised to give me some of his. I found a shop that sells the batteries but the owner wanted to charge me $42.
I managed after some difficulty to find a beauty salon. Females are well hidden. I had my eyebrows plucked with the twisted cotton method by a Somali girl. Then I had a thorough pedicure and a manicure all for £11 by an Ethiopian girl.
This evening I had dinner with Dale, Oscar the Brit Muslim and a new comer that I invited along- David, an American who has just finished working in Afghanistan. All quite interesting until they started discussing religion. So I left them to it and went to an internet cafe. That was a pain as it was slow and cutting out and then the text would come up in Arabic. It was also very smokey. Each computer had a full ashtray beside it. That is one of the problems here. Most men seem to smoke and it is acceptable everywhere, They also chew qat. As it is so weak here they have to chew a lot which is stored in their cheeks. So they all look as though they have mumps. It is supposed to be a stimulant/depressive, make you virile/impotent either way it is the thing to do. Most telephone calls are made whilst driving.
Generally people are so kind. If you ask directions they usually take you there. I walked back from an internet cafe at 11pm and felt quite safe although the streets were deserted.
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