Dubai and Istanbul


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Middle East » Turkey » Marmara » Istanbul
December 17th 2008
Published: April 2nd 2009
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Last weeks in Malawi Soon after my return from Zimbabwe something many of us mzungus had been looking forward to for months was finally happening: 'Indecision 2008' to use Jon Stewart’s terminology 😉. Chameleon’s, a mzungu-owned bar in Lilongwe, had promised to stay open all night and broadcast the U.S. presidential election live on CNN for us. After sleeping for a few hours, Maki, ... Read Full Entry



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Burq Al Arab hotelBurq Al Arab hotel
Burq Al Arab hotel

It was designed to look like the sail of a dhow—the traditional Arab sailboat that Eva and I rode a few times along the Indian Ocean in Mozambique in 2007.
Blue Mosque lit up at nightBlue Mosque lit up at night
Blue Mosque lit up at night

Not a bad introduction to Turkey!
Blue Mosque in the morningBlue Mosque in the morning
Blue Mosque in the morning

Seen from the small market beneath the mosque I crossed every morning as I left my hostel
Hagia SophiaHagia Sophia
Hagia Sophia

Which literally means "Holy Wisdom" - this is a basilica constructed under the Byzantine emperor Justinian, later turned into a mosque resulting in some of its famous mosaics being plastered over.
Hagia Sophia constructionHagia Sophia construction
Hagia Sophia construction

Exterior masonry that supports the huge dome inside, which was the most innovative construction of the Byzantine era
View inside the Hagia SophiaView inside the Hagia Sophia
View inside the Hagia Sophia

You can see the infamous Arabic script panels that were overlaid throughout the basilica's interior
Mosaic and beautiful imported marbles...Mosaic and beautiful imported marbles...
Mosaic and beautiful imported marbles...

...that characterize the basilica interiors
Basilica cisternBasilica cistern
Basilica cistern

A really beautiful spot to visit, you walk through on creaky boardwalks as water drips from the ceiling.
Rotated medusa headsRotated medusa heads
Rotated medusa heads

The highlight of the cistern visit is the two ancient Medusa heads that were used as column bases—one upside down, one rotated on its side. There are competing theories as to why the heads were placed this way, whether it was a deliberate Christian rebuke to the pagans who believed in Medusa, or out of a mere lack of appreciation by the builders as to the significance of the ancient relics who simply needed strong blocks to support the cistern columns.
Fancy dinner nightFancy dinner night
Fancy dinner night

My little array of delicacies: fried calamari, fava beans, marinated octopus, and mussel risotto, everything laden with olive oil ;)
Small mosque off a backstreet West of SulthanametSmall mosque off a backstreet West of Sulthanamet
Small mosque off a backstreet West of Sulthanamet

I believe this mosque is known as the "Lesser Hagia Sophia"
Small doorway on a backstreetSmall doorway on a backstreet
Small doorway on a backstreet

This is what I love about exploring a bit off the beaten path - you come across these little gems that really make a place what it is that you would never see if you just go by your guidebook.
Another small mosque I happened uponAnother small mosque I happened upon
Another small mosque I happened upon

Its courtyard empty under the afternoon rain



7th April 2009

too much in this one post!
dubai and istanbul look so amazing... all those spices... crazy. the culture is so different from ours, it's so neat to see all those pictures. i can't imagine walking in those shoes! i look forward to all the thailand posts - it'll be just as great!

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