It's Istanbul, not Constantinople


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Middle East » Turkey » Marmara » Istanbul
May 15th 2008
Published: May 17th 2008
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We arrived in Istanbul after a long drive. I think it was about 8pm when we got there. Driving around the city was an experience - I am very glad I didn’t decide to drive myself this time around! The hotel looks very nice - it’s 5 stars and the foyer is very fancy. The rooms were nice and large, the bed huge and very comfortable, and I felt like I had finally got what I deserve! There were a couple of minor issues with the bathroom, but nothing major. Apparently the couple on the tour had a stinky bathroom, so I think I got a good room.

One odd thing was that in my bathroom, on the mirror, was a sticker saying that the tap water was not drinkable. Nobody else in the hotel seems to have that sticker, so may be it is only my room. I was talking with our guide for the second day and he told me there are three things you cannot rely on in Istanbul: The water; the weather; and the women!

I went to the dining room upstairs for dinner. At first I thought I was in the wrong place as it seemed empty and the door was closed. But a member of staff informed me that it was indeed the dining room. I had it all to myself and was given a table with spectacular views of the Golden Horn (the harbour in Istanbul). The meal was delicious, but I discovered the next day that our tour does not cover dinner in Istanbul. Fortunately the price was not too high, but it was frustrating to find out I was supposed to have been given an itinerary for the tour that told me that. Still, breakfast and lunch were still included in the tour, so I can’t complain.

The next day we were picked up by our tour guide and informed that 9 other people would be joining us. After touring around with just the tree of us, this was quite a shock. It turned out, though, that the 9 others were all Aussies and one Kiwi, so it wasn’t too bad. They had all been on the 14 day tour of Turkey, so knew each other and seemed to be a little over everything. Our guide seemed to have trouble holding their attention.

We headed out and first stop was the Hagia Sophia, originally built as a Christian chuch but turned into a mosque by the Ottomans. Nowadays it is a museum, so you don’t have to take off your shoes and stuff. It is huge, and the restoration work inside includes a massive scaffolding which really gives you a sense of perspective. There are still some Christian icons inside, along with the Islamic additions.

Next stop was the old Byzantine Basilica Cistern. This was amazing as well, it’s huge and supported by many columns. Two of the columns re-used earlier blocks that had Medusa’s head carved into them. One is upside down, the other on its side. The water drips in, making the walkway slippery. But it was nice and cool in there.

Next stop was the Spice Markets. The smells were lovely and the place is very busy. It’s not just a tourist place either, as many Istanbul residents will come here to buy spices. I picked up a nice Turkish tea set (included the tulip shaped cups and a small amount of different teas - Turkish black, orange, cherry, apple, mint, etc - hopefully I can get them back into Australia) and a very nice present for my mother, as I am overseas for Mothers Day and her birthday.

We then split from our new friends, as we were going for a boat trip down the Bosporus and they had already done that. So we were back to the right-sized group. After quite a drive through town, we reached our lunch spot. Lunch was okay, but as seems usual for the tour, the entrée was far better than the main. We then headed over the road to catch the ferry. We said goodbye to our driver at this point, as he wasn’t going to be with us on the second day in Istanbul.

The boat trip was really just a ferry ride from the top of the Bosporus to the stop near our hotel. But our guide gave us plenty of information. I also took heaps of photographs. The other guy on the tour, Darryl, was trying to rev me up by saying it’s just as good as Sydney Harbour. It didn’t work though, as I’d previously stated that I can’t see what the attraction is with Sydney Harbour - it’s nice, but I don’t see why everyone thinks it’s the best in the world. Personally, I thought the Bosporus was much more interesting.

Once the trip was over, we headed back to the hotel where we said our goodbyes to the guide. He wouldn’t be joining us for the second day, unfortunately. I think he enjoyed taking us around everywhere and he told us at lunch that he likes taking Australians the most as they are easy going. But the three of us had gotten on really well with him, and I’m going to have to make sure I write to the tour company and tell them how great he was.

That night for dinner I decided to just stay in the room and order room service. I went for the burger as it’s been quite a while since I’ve had one. It was nothing special, but to me, it was great!

The next day we joined up with the other group again and a couple who had just flown in from New Zealand. I kind of felt a bit sorry for them as everyone else had been in Turkey for a while and knew each other and how things worked. At lunch they ate their entrée’s thinking that was all we were getting. They were a little puzzled when some of us didn’t eat the whole thing.

Our first stop was the Sultan’s palace. Quite large, as you would expect. The highlight was probably the treasure room, featuring a 96 carat diamond (thrown out, or something, at one stage and found by someone who traded it for 3 spoons!) but I liked the decorated armour for the Sultan best. The whole place is amazingly opulent.

Our group had a bit of a laugh at the room that held the holy relics of Islam. Not to be disrespectful, but we had doubts as to the authenticity of items such as Moses’ staff (made of wood and survived thousands of years? Yeah right!). I also enjoyed the armoury.

On our way out, one of the other Aussie couples were given a big surprise. It was Peter’s 70th birthday and as we were leaving the palace, they were greeted by their daughter. She had sneakily found out where they would be on his birthday and arranged to be in Istanbul for it. They were blown away, of course and after a quick family reunion, they arranged to meet up after the tour.

We moved onto the Blue Mosque, but were running late and ran into prayer time - meaning we could not go in. Our guide decided that we would come back after lunch. So we headed towards the restaurant after a quick stop at the so-called Hippodrome. I say “so-called” as there is very little evidence of the Hippodrome left - just a couple of obelisks and a bronze snake statue.

After lunch we headed back to the Blue Mosque and, after taking our shoes off and those wearing shorts put on the skirts provided for them, we headed inside. It was quite pretty, but really wasn’t that special.

Our last stop for the tour was the Grand Bazaar. I didn’t buy anything and Bev and Darryl (my companions for the whole Turkish tour) and I decided to leave after a short time. Most of the shops seemed to be selling the same things, and there was constant pressure to buy something. As soon as they found out we were Australian, they’d try to impress us by saying things like “G’day mate”. It was a bit sad, really. All in all, I’d say the spice markets were far better (they sell things other than spices there, by the way).

That night, all the Aussies were heading to a nearby bar. The other group were there the night before and had the bars bidding for their business. They got one guy down to 4 lira a beer (from 8 or 9) so we headed back to the same place. The thing is, it is within 100 metres of a mosque, so you were not supposed to be served alcoholic drinks there - it was all milkshakes and apple tea (ie beer and wine). As we were walking up, the other bars tried to entice us with “You want beer?” One of our group said back to them “Nah, mate. Can’t drink beer here, there’s a mosque over there” and we proceeded over to their friend “George” (he really looked like George Clooney) and he supplied us with beer and wine (and a Pepsi for me, much to the dismay of the others).

We had a few drinks and some of us headed off to get some dinner. Our original destination was no good as, for some reason, they were without power. Luckily everywhere else had power and we found a nice place to have a Turkish pizza.

The next day, those of us that were left had breakfast together before saying our goodbyes. It was funny, we’d only spent the 2 days with this group but they had accepted us in as if we’d been there the whole 14. My ride to the airport arrived at 10 and off I went.

Istanbul airport is nice and modern, but boy do they need some work on their procedures. After much confusion and frustration, I managed to board my plane 5 minutes after it was due to leave. Don’t worry, I was not the last. It seems though, that this was expected as we still arrived in Berlin on time. During the flight I developed a small cough which has since grown into a full cold. So my next blog on Berlin will not be so action packed, as I have been feeling like crap. But more on that later.




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18th May 2008

"Been a long time gone Constantinople"
Istanbul for me was a very moving experience - with the history and the culture and (albeit v moderate) Muslim religion and the most bizzare little nightclub cellar/bar which played top music and served beer from the tap until early hours of the morning. I'm interested that you thought the Blue Mosque was not that special. Horses for courses I suppose :) Good luck with the tea through customs - they confiscated mine :(
19th May 2008

The Blue Mosque
Well, the religious aspect had no signifigance to me (and quite frankly, it bored me). Architectually, I guess it was good, but really, it's not far from the Hagia Sofia which is what? 1,000 years older? The Hagia Sofia was much more impressive to me. As for the tea, yeah, I'm expecting that. Still, I'll get the cups, etc through.

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