Away with the Fairy Chimneys

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Belly Dancer in Goreme

14th May HAPPY MOTHERS DAY MUM. Michael woke me at about 8:30 as he had to leave for his day tour, and I want to say that I really hate the morning thing. I gave him my email last night in drunkenness at the bar and he told me that we would catch up in Germany around the world cup but for the first time I felt like I could see straight though a guy and I knew that he was talking shit. As much as I would like to see him again, I am not really happy with myself as he does have a girlfriend and it wouldn’t really be best to see him again. I had to walk out quickly so not to get busted and I realised I only had 2L left which was not enough to get home and the walk ahead was a long one. It was pretty hot and I was already dehydrated from last nights drinking, my mouth was so dry and I just hoped I was going the right way. The walk ended up taking me 2hours (the things I do for a pash) so I scoffed down breakfast and bumped into Sarah and Rod from Olympos. I called Mum and we spoke for a while which was nice, and Mum didn’t yell at me when I told her about my tattoo, phew (nice mothers day present, hey mum I got a tat in Thailand). I had a real laugh at my brother Adam and his shenanigans at blowing up our crazy neighbours’ letterbox!!! I then headed to the Open Air Museum (Turkish World Heritage Site) with Sarah and Rod. It is basically a cluster of rock cut Byzantine churches, chapels and monasteries. It was unlike any other museum I have ever been to, but a shame as vandals have ruined some of the frescos. The whole way round the museum, Atesh, one of the Shoestring’s dogs followed us, he was so cute and I felt bad when we had lunch in the restaurant and had to leave him outside. Later in the night Keera, Sarah, Rod and I went to a little bar and watched a pirate copy of Troy and then headed next door for a small bite to eat. We hung out on the cushions listening to traditional Turkish music but was in bed by 10 as I was completely buggered.

15th May Got up and was pleasantly surprised to see Eve and Carolyn were staying at the same hostel. We couldn’t talk long as I had to head out on my day tour with Sarah, Rod and Keera. The first stop was Derinkuyu for the Yeraltisehri Underground City that was absolutely freezing. We had to climb up and down stares and apparently in times of peace, the people of the region lived and farmed above the ground, but when they were threatened by invaders they took to the troglodyte dwellings where they could live in safety for up to 6 months (with their animals on the top level), it was quite amazing. The views in the area were amazing and the three snow capped volcanoes were absolutely beautiful. A 45min drive away and we were at the Ilhara Valley which is a glacier cut gorge 15kms long but we only walked 3.4kms of it, and it made me feel like I was bushwalking at home, it was very picturesque with the Melendiz River flowing gently and we had lunch next to it, quite literally as I could have put my foot in the water from the table. Next was the Selime Monastery and Agzikara Hani Caravanserai, situated on one of the oldest trade routes in the world. When we stopped to see the fairy chimneys I tried some Turkish ice cream and it was heaps sticky, dragging from my mouth like cheese on a pizza. The last and funniest stop of the tour was Avanos, situated on the Kizilirmak (Red River) where for centuries the town has been moulding the clay from the river in their pottery workshops. We got to see the workers inside another underground cave and it was really amazing to see the amount of detail they put into their work. A man with 25yrs experience showed us how to actually make the pots and of course he made it look easy. I got to have a go, putting on the huge baggy pants to protect me and I got the wheel spinning with my foot, and I thought I was going well. Then came the ‘getting out the air bubbles’ which was hilarious and a little embarrassing as I had to put my hands up and down the clay (look at the photos to why this was embarrassing). I couldn’t help but laugh as I ended up with more clay on my hands then part of the bowl I was supposed to be making. He then got me to use my elbow and the outer part of the bowl actually fell off in a huge chunk when he grabbed it, which was also hilarious. In the end when he took it off the wheel there was a huge hole in the bottom and everyone was laughing at me hihihi. Back in town I change my bus ticket to stay another night and then convince myself to see a Turkish show where the food wasn’t even the best, the beers were slow to come out and the show was very touristy but I guess good to see some of the dancers including the Whirling Dervishes. Back in town the clubs were all really quiet but we found pasha bar where I had control over the D.J and we really pumped the tunes. Back at the hostel Keera and I were starving so Caner (hostel worker) and us snuck into the kitchen to eat stale chips and bread smothered in honey. It was hilarious as we tried not to get busted.

16th May Sat around with Carolyn in the morning chatting before they went walking and I went to the UFO museum where I spent an hour looking at all the tacky displays (especially the life sized inflatable aliens operating on a female mannequin with a white sheet over her), it was awesome. At one point I started to freak myself out starring at this clay model of an alien, waiting for it to move or something. I then just hung out back at the hostel, Suleman made me a very special lunch (secret recipe pancake with vegemite in it,) can’t tell you it though but I can tell you it was delicious and we ate it in the sun with our apple teas. I spent the rest of the arvo playing with cirkin (their other dog). I once again had to say bye to Carolyn but I may now be seeing her in a few days time. I said bye to Suleman, Sarah, Rod and Keera and almost missed my bus as it said Istanbul on it, luckily someone asked me where I was going. I was sad to leave Goreme; I loved that there were tractors and horse drawn carts still going down its main streets and that the neighbours to the hostel had vegetable gardens and chooks roaming around.

So the bus ride was ok, this time I had a window seat (which is always important). I spent the night trying not to fart too loud but I am not sure how that went for me; how embarrassment. And the lady behind me stole my curtain; how rude, so I got the bus host to steal it back when she was sleeping.

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Photos

In the main street in Goreme
a bloody long way alright

A fresco
One of the better preserved ones

Me and Atesh at the dining table in Yilanli Kilisie
which is all cut from rock

Inside one of the underground cities, this one had seven levels
These people must have been small, even i had to crouch down in there

Back to school
This was were the kids were schooled. Sarah, Keera, Rod and Me

Snow capped mountains
and gorgeous green grass, a higly fertile area due to the mineral-laden volcanic soil

Ihlara Valley
A remote valley once called Peristrema was a favourite retreat of Byzantine monks, i can see why

In the Gorge
following the Melendiz Stream

So good to be out in nature again
i love it

View from Selime Monastery
not to be confused with a star wars movie...

Selime Monastery
Rock Carved

Comments

[Nina]

Think you may just have been set up with the whole phallic pottery fiasco!!! The landscape there looks gorgeous. Nice one! x

[Sally]

amazing
Wow Moo what an awesome place!