Pamukkale and Hieropolis

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One night in 2009, on Denman Island in Canada, a woman who had just returned from Turkey gave a free slide show about her trip, and our friend Doreen took us along. “Island people make their own entertainment”, she said.

We found the evening an inspiration to go to Turkey ourselves. Such seemingly minor events change lives, and the catalyzer often doesn’t know the impact of what s/he has done. In some cases that’s probably just as well, but in others, wouldn’t it be fun to know you’d given someone a nudge in an adventurous direction?

Anyway, Pamukkale was one of the intriguing spots she showcased, and here’s a look at it for YOU. The pictures at first look like snow, but in fact the white slopes are made from mineral deposits from running water. Cleopatra allegedly bathed there (that woman sure seemed to get around this area!) and on the hilltop above the white slopes is an ancient city, Hieropolis.

On the day of our visit it was extremely hot, and the ruins were mostly deserted as people sought to cool off either in the natural terrace pools (free) or in Cleopatra’s pool (fee-paying), which now sported the Apollon Café next to it, with a roof (shade!) and elixirs like Coke.

When Phil gave up on the idea of dipping his notoriously delicate feet into the nubbly/slippery terrace pools, and beat a fast retreat to the café, he noted busloads of Russians buying their refreshments with US dollars. SOMEONE in the world still believes in the US currency!

I, too, was also pretty overcome by the heat in that brilliant, highly reflective environment, and I would caution you from going to Pamukkale in August. Although I did have a wade in an upper pool, the crowds put me off. So I spent a lot of time sitting in the shady gathering spot watching life go by. One young woman sitting near me was in chadur and covered up over all but her eyes. I couldn’t help wondering how hot she was, and also what she made of the bikinied tourists around her.

This was our last organized tour in Turkey. The next afternoon we flew back to Istanbul and the following day to London, where we had a day to sightsee (not enough!) and then a flight to Boston.

Stay tuned for the next installment, in which I will show you where TIME begins.

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Photos

Entrance to Hieropolis
Moving from the carpark and the Mercedes Benz buses, people step back many centuries in time.

Hieropolis Stadium
Rock concerts today could fit here!

Our guide has methods to reduce the sun's heat.
Sunscreen, umbrellas, whatever works. This was a hot spot not just for Cleopatra.

Connecting with Cleopatra
For a fee, swim where Cleopatra allegedly did.

When in doubt, eat.
Have you ever found a tourist site without a kiosk? Hanging out in the Apollon Cafe.

Not snow, despite appearances.
Mineral deposits swathe the hills of Pamukkale.

Oleander was the shrub of choice at Pamukkale
It graces not just the suburbs of Australia.

Water channel to terraces
The powers that be at Pamukkale control the flow of water over the terraces, as they can dry out. Keeping some wet for the tourists is an important aim these days.

Have a dip, that's what you do here.
Tourists from around the world...

Mineral terraces
Look closely: can you see the crowded line of tourists extending all down the slopes? Not a square inch of terraces to spare.

Phil heads for coffee
When in doubt, drink coffee.

My shady refuge
Families, lovers and honeymooners, elderly people, in bikinis or long black robes, we all sought refuge from the fierce sun that day.

A temple too far
Not another temple, please! Let me just sit here in the shade. Martha the Intrepid Tourist has wilted.

Comments

[Michelle Cavanagh]

Hieropolis Stadium
I have a reputation to keep up now! What a fantastic stadium - entertaining the masses has obviously always been important. M xx

[jane Murray]

Cleopatra
Dear Martha I have greatly enjoyed your Turkey descriptions and photos. I see why it is so attractive to so many including Cleopatra. I bet she did not go in the summer! I hope your time in USA is also good. Give my love to Marjie. Love jane

[Fadia]

Nice picture
Nice picture I like the natural so much