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Published: February 28th 2009
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Gallipoli. There is absolutely no place in the World like it. Not because untold thousands of people died there in a bloody deadlock, but because some of them were our family, friends, and countrymen.
Gallipoli is part of the mindset of our little Country. The yearly celebration of ANZAC day with the country closing down, the silent dawn parades, the solemn school ceremonies, the sad songs recalling honour and pride amidst the wreckage. "Lest we forget".
The 19th Century. After 100's of years of achieving the previously impossible, the now powerful European empires had not only explored the world but established colonies as far away as the massive Pacific to contribute to their power base and wealth. Still with a mindset of expansion, the scene was primed for these giants to smash each other on a scale never seen before. And so it was that New Zealand and Australia ended up sending their sons as a contribution to Mother Great Britain's war.
Having heard almost all of the legends, descriptions of terrain, and landmarks, we were still quite unprepared for the beguiling day of sun, tranquility, and flat calm sparkling water we were treated to as we approached
Idyllic
This pleasant stretch of beach was quite rightly pegged as a good spot to land an assault into the peninsular. the war zone. Driving past the intended landing site - a nice quiet beach with easy access into the heart of the small peninsular, it was hard to picture 1915. But a quirk of nature called tidal currents in the black hours of the morning was enough to move the little row boats a short way down the coast. It was only when we looked down from the clifftops from where the Turkish snipers sat overlooking the actual landing site of ANZAC Cove that the impossibility of making ground inland was evident. And so began 8 months of atrocious warfare for both sides as they literally threw themselves against the other, each soldier knowing their mortality to be a short term struggle. This was most evident along the ridge road that was once intermittent no-mans land, with half metre depressions snaking around in the ground where 3m deep trenches lined both sides of the road. The story of the grenade being tossed back and forth between the opposing trenches until it brought tranquility for one of the participants became very real here.
And then there is Chunuk Bair, a name that is revered through New Zealand - the panoramic
Go and die.
Ataturks legendary command to send his retreating ammo-less troops back to the line to die with their bayonets in hand, buying time for his replacements who were on their way. How does a leader or his troops escape such an environment alive, let alone with any sanity intact? hilltop from where you can stand and appreciate the views of the Gallipoli peninsular. unsurprisingly, the Turkish Colonel Mustafa Kemal (to be known as Ataturk) made this his base, and watched the plan of holding the strategic high ground at absolutely all costs. Even to the point he sent troops back to the line with no ammunition, their bayonets and their bodies being the only reserve left to buy time till the reinforcements arrived. Into this unquestioning dedication, the ANZACS pushed with New Zealand soldiers taking Chunuk Bair for just one day.
Being in this place, seeing this place, and hearing and reading the accounts was impossible to describe. Not only for the horrid reality combined with the utter futility, but for the stories of how our menfolk, friends, and once adversaries, tackled this situation showing determined tenacity and then remarkable compassion to each other. As the leader of Turkey, Ataturk's statement to the Mothers of the 'fallen heroes' was enough to move us to tears - your sons repose peacefully in a friendly country, and we consider them as our sons.
It is impossible to 'understand' Gallipoli. Having been here, we understand more of the military strategy,
Ataturk's message
Almost 20 years after the massacre of each other, the Turkish commander at Gallipoli turned leader of the new nation had this to say. It was very moving to be here reading this. the location they were contesting and why. But the true reality is (fortunately) beyond
understanding, leading to the question of what right a country has to ask this of its children.
The ANZACS had no personal animosity against their opponents - each soldier was there fighting because that was their duty to their nation. Once the war was over, we have been friends of Turkey ever since, indeed much closer having shared this ordeal. For us, having been here at ANZAC Cove, and keenly feeling our connection to the events here, we feel better placed to appreciate our utter ignorance of the conflicts we have seen elsewhere. The recent war in Palestine also demonstrates peoples suffering, not over a 4 year period but 60 years. Both sides have deep set grievances and totally different mindsets. Every loss is a further entrenchment of the bitter divide.
ANZAC cove is a potent peace memorial, and we are deeply moved to have had the opportunity to be humble pilgrims here. Thank you Turkey.
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