Ephesus

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Ephesus was our main goal if we left Istanbul at all, because Phil was keen to see remnants of antiquity, and Annabel Murray had told us Ephesus shouldn't be missed. So our travel agent built Ephesus in to his grand plan for us.

Leaving Cappadocia, we flew to Ismir, and the inherent merits of our tour arrangements became more apparent when we learned that we were being taxied, by ourselves, from the Izmir airport to the seaside town of Kusadasi, nearly an hour to the south along the coast, and delivered right to the lobby of our next hotel. What a luxury! And what a change from that first crowded hour in Istanbul going from the airport to the Sultanahmet in a train so crammed that Phil and Wai had to stand the whole way, bracing the luggage with their legs.

Ephesus was a more intense journey through time and history than I had expected. The city is believed to have been first settled by the Amazons, warrior women of amazing prowess, who, according to our guide, reputedly cut off their right breast so it wouldn't impede their archery.

The Feminism of the 1970s seemed pretty mild in comparison! I'd rather pledge to be bra-less than breast-less.

However, I have since read that there is nothing in the art which represents the Amazons to indicate this breastlessness was true. However, their right breast area is usually covered, so I'll leave you to ponder this.

By 1000BC, Ephesus was a Greek Colony, it was later conquered by the Lydians and then the Persians. It was Greek again under Alexander the Great, Roman under the Emperor Augustus, plundered by the Goths in 262AD, and eventually became a base for the early Christians, visited by Saint John and Saint Paul and allegedly by the Virgin Mary.

Ephesus was built as a port on the Aegean Sea, but the river flowing to the sea there eventually silted up, pushing the coastline away and turning the area into a malaria-ridden swamp which was finally abandoned. Over time, the city was entirely covered with silt and it was only rediscovered in the late 1800s during the construction of the Istanbul-Baghdad railroad. Since then it has been excavated and reassembled in fits and starts. It's believed that much of it still lies beneath the silt.

Of course, I could only convey much of this to you because we bought a picture book on Ephesus when we were walking through. Concentrate as I might, there was such a flood of names and details during the tour that I was at a loss to write about some of my photos without consulting the book for names and meanings.

I hope you enjoy this mini-tour of Ephesus. In this case, I'll leave you with the pictures.

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Photos

The Celsus Library
The second biggest library in the ancient world, surpassed only by Alexandria, its collection was burned and lost. Sniff!

Entering Ephesus
In the distance is the State Agora where religious, social and political meetings were held, and behind that the Odeon.

Christian symbol
The circular symbol inscribed on this rock holds a code. Each of the individual symbols to the left of it can be traced within this one megasymbol, and together it's a sign used by the early Christians.

The State Agora
The State Agora was a semi-sacred space where decisions were made, unlike commercial agoras which were meeting and market places.

The Odeon
The Odeon was probably built around 150AD and was used for concerts and as a council chamber. It's believed to have originally had a roof.

Resident cat
According to our guide, this cat spent every day on this rock. A kind tourist poured some water into the chinked-out piece of the rock and you can see it having a drink.

Puzzle pieces
There are plenty more pieces lying around which belong to the ancient city, and it's believed much is still underground in the surrounding valley and hillsides.

Nike--More than just a brand of shoes.
Nike was the somewhat capricious goddess of victory, usually depicted as a fit young woman with wings and a victory wreath, a swift runner and an able charioteer.

Celsus Library, long view
The Celsus Library is probably the best known remnant of Ephesus.

Sign of the Healer
The twin snakes symbol of the healer comes from Ephesus. Email me if you want the story behind it.

The Marble Road
The pathway of the main road through Ephesus is known from ancient maps, but this road has been reassembled from fragments which may not have been part of it, or not in this order anyway.

The Trajan Fountain
Dedicated to the Emperor Trajan and built 102-114AD

The Temple of Hadrian
Dedicated to the Emperor Hadrian, whose statue once stood here, can you see Medusa on the back arch? This temple has a frieze which recounts the founding of Ephesus.

Public toilet, long view
A very open-air dunny. Relieving oneself seems to have not been such a private affair as it is today.

Public toilets, a meeting of minds?
Toilet seats were made of marble slab. Of course, that can be chilly on the skin. Rich people could afford to have a slave warm the seat for them, from which our guide said we get the term "bench warmer". An effective waste-removal stream ran below.

Yet another gate
Here Phil helps you get an idea of the size of the columns, but my book doesn't tell me the name of this structure--sorry.

Houses on the Slopes
The houses of the wealthy had beautiful mosaics and are now covered with a roof to protect them, and also keep people out who don't pay the additional entrance fee. I would go inside if I ever got to Ephesus again, but for my first visit everything else was more than enough.

Commoners housing
The common people didn't live in "Ephesus Heights" but in 2-room structures down closer to the main street.

The Brothel
The oldest profession was well-housed in Ephesus. Some archeologists believe there was an underground tunnel which led to the brothel, so people could enter surreptitiously. "See you later, Wife, I have a meeting at the Agora."

Mazeus-Mitridates Door
This grand gateway led from the front of the Celsus Library to the commercial agora and the waterside, as well as to the Grand Theatre.

Comments

[Michelle Cavanagh]

The Ancient World
No wonder I love history so much - it's just fascinating. Can't wait to talk to you about all this when you get back!! M xx

[fadia]

wonderful pictures
wonderful pictures