SYRIA: If there is a Jeckyll here, the Hyde is very well hidden

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Polarity - the Human talent for finding differences in everything. Black - White. Friend - Enemy. East - West. So it was that some guy named Bush lumped a country called Syria in with some 'Axis of Evil', perhaps as opposed to some 'Axis of Good'. And overtly or sublimally, Syria has been dubbed anti-West, with its personality being associated with military and religious 'extremism', and hanging out with good mates like North Korea and Iran, not to mention Hamas and Hezbollah.

Making a last minute decision to enter Syria only because it looked like we would be let in, we went for it. Being unprepared with useful things like history books, we were fresh and ready to meet Syria first hand without much of that baggage of being on one side. And once we got across the most expensive visa we could have nightmared up, it was an exceptionally warm welcome we received indeed. Having expended every last cent of ours and our travel companions to get us paid up to enter (and a non-refundable contibution from a couple of very nice Jordanians), we had no option but to pull on our backpacks and foot it 4kms into the heart of the oldest capital of civilisation - Damascus.

Aside from being looked at like visiting space aliens by the locals, we were continuously bombarded with 'hellos' and 'welcomes'. The welcome that we could never forget was a lorry that pulled over to see if we needed directions, and offered us some tea to refresh our laden slog in the wintery but warm afternoon sun.

If there was a Jeckyl here, the Hyde was very well hidden.

Damascus is one of those cities that has well outgrown its Roman walled defenses. But within this old district lies the most wonderful treasure troves. With ancient balconies sagging over the narrow mediaeval alleyways, and long souqs (market streets) lined with stores spilling out onto their pedestrian streets, we wormed our way into the old cities ancient midrife. There we found the ancient Umayyad Mosque, Islams second most impressive building - second only to Mecca. Roadworks in progress kept digging up the efforts of so many preceeding centuries, often heaving Roman finds aside by digger to be attended to sometime later.

It was the food of Damascus that absolutely reached our hearts. Munching on warm cashew nuts fresh from the roaster, chocolate croissants from a still hot baking tray, pesto pizza, baclava, and the ubiquitous kebab. A day in Damascus could not be complete without at least one visit to our favourite juice bar for a legendary 'fruit cocktail' - a half litre jug of various juices making an exotic taste bud teaser at every slurp. It was all too good.

So still searching for the Hyde in this sweet country, Benj managed (on the third attempt) to visit the Syrian Military 'Museum' - a fascinating insight into the official National perspective - and it didn't dissapoint. While New Zealand children go on field trips holding hands in pairs to keep the line organised, they go to the park, the mall, the museum. Benj was sitting amongst 40 kids aged between 7 and 9, soaking up the one glorious day in the whole sad saga of Syria-Israel military relations, a day when Syria (and allies Egypt and Jordan) caught the 'enemy' off guard and pressed their advantage. Apparently that day in the Golan Heights in 1973 restored National Pride, and was heftily used in this propagandic teaching facility. Si if Syria is not busily teaching their kids peace, we are pretty sure that barely a few hundred kilometres away, Israel are probably not doing this either.

So while Syria is a land of absolutely delightful people who have shown us so much hospitality regardless of our wide eyes and white skin, there is still the major stumbling block that their Israeli neighbours still exist. And we think it unlikely that any agreement on peace is going to satisfy either of these poles.

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Photos

Koran
The book cabinet at the mosque was on hand for reference.

Memorial
The 'Military Museum' was as much a memorial to the past leader Assad, as any kind of history lesson. Walls were adorned with photos of his meetings with most presidents - 1972 with a baby faced young Margaret Thatcher, through to 1999 with Nelsom Mandela.

The 'JUICE COCKTAIL'
What an institution to live up to - only one juice bar did this cocktail without mixing the constituents. And for NZ$3, how could you turn down half a litre of visual and taste sensation?

Old city street
These little streets were fantastic for getting lost in as they snaked randomly through the city centre. Getting lost was never so much fun.

Hamas Poster
Hamas could not have had a 'better' event to raise their public profile. In Syria, they have the absolute sympathies of the people.

Souq
These market streets were amazing. The small light spots in the top of the ceiling were actually bullet holes from a coup - firing upwards was probably equally effective but less messy than shooting horizontally.

Magnet for the fridge anyone?
Images of the leader are pretty cool. How about a John Key, or a Helen Clark for the fridge.

Grafiti 'artist'
Boys will be boys anywhere you go...

Damascus Christian Quarter
The old city has a Christian and Jewish Quarter. The religious architecture is different, and even the headscarves wee conpicuously absent. Definitely no religious intolerance here.

Leading from the walls
The leader Bashar can be seen everywhere, but this vantage point at the T of a major road is the most strategic.

Booty
This American individual found its way into Israel's armed forces, and was captured in the 'glorious' offensive in 1973.

Warning
Perhaps this warning on a panel of the French made warplane should read that use in military situations is dangerous.