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Published: July 17th 2008
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So, summer school 1 is over and today we begin the second of the three intensive English courses. We had some great students. Russ was invited to go out for the afternoon and smoke some hubbly-bubbly with some of the guys he taught. They took him to a local café, which seemed to be men only, where he was treated to a couple of hours of strong Arabic tea, fresh fruit salad and a long puff on the water pipe.
There are many synonyms for the argileh (as the Arabs call it). In London they are called hookahs (nothing to do with rugby or prostitution!) or water pipes, in Egypt it’s sheesha, in Turkey it’s nargileh whilst around the world it’s affectionately known as hubble-bubble or hubbly-bubbly. Why? Well, it’s not like smoking a cigarette, cigar or a pipe. The tobacco isn’t burned in the traditional way. It is also flavoured, usually with apple, and sits in a metal capsule whilst a man circulates the café continually replacing the glowing-red coals which provide heat. You suck on a long tube (with your own personal mouthpiece) and smoke from the tobacco is drawn through cooling water (hence the bubbly bit!) before
it hits your mouth. The aroma is sweet and the sensation is mildly narcotic. Because the tobacco isn’t burning, like in a cigarette, the health risks are minimal and so even non-smokers partake. Here though it’s unusual to share a pipe the way we did in Dubai. It’s more common for each person to have their own. The students say it’s for hygiene reasons!!
Now, hopefully that’s put Russ’ mother’s mind at ease. He has not taken up smoking!!
2008 sees Damascus as the Arab City of Culture. Move over Liverpool!!! (Liverpool is Europe’s Capital of Culture this year). Part of the celebrations is a series of world music nights held in the old citadel. We thought it would be silly not to see at least one of the concerts. Some fellow teachers who have taught in various parts of Africa recommended the line up on the opening night. It was a fiver each for the tickets and the main office is just around the corner from our flat. Easy!
The first act was Tinariwen from Mali, billed as “Rock of the Desert”. Their music was very atmospheric in the setting of Saladin’s old castle and their
haunting melodies echoed around. Visually they were stunning too with both drummer and base guitarists wrapped up like mummies. The rest of the band wore very colourful costumes and, once the crowd warmed up, the concert really got going. It was strange to see the left handed base player having his guitar upside down. Presumably they don’t sell left-handed bases in Mali!!
They were followed by South Africa’s Johnny Clegg. He is nicknamed the Great White Zulu and bills himself as “Zulu Rock”. His repertoire was much more in the vein of traditional rock and he sang in English, French and Zulu. The strangest thing was his performance on the stage where, at times, he staggered around like a mountain gorilla! All part of his act we suppose!!
It was a fabulous night. The full moon shone and beams of light circled the sky to add to the atmosphere. Trish preferred Tinariwen whilst Russ preferred the apish Johnny Clegg. We both went home very happy, even finding a taxi straight away and not being overcharged for the privilege as midnight approached.
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Clare
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Hubbly Bubbly hey?
Perhaps the Argentinean's can learn a thing or two from the hygiene conscious Arabs and implement the same thing with their maté rituals. Here's hoping!