Golan to Tzefat

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Good morning! We had a late morning -- didn't leave Kfar Blum until 8:30 pm. Great breakfast. The fresh croissants and marmalade were yummy.... We had a jeep ride in the Golan Heights -- close by but up the hill. Saw some of the spots that were Syrian outposts before the 67 war. In addition to great history of 1948 and 1967, we also came at the right time of year to see the wildflowers. So beautiful -- the kalaniyot/anemones and much more. Missed the lupines by a few days. After the jeep tour and a talk by Roi (the main guide), we were dropped off down at the Banias. This is another park, at the place where one of the main sources of the Jordan River (the Banias) comes down a huge waterfall. We hiked down to it, and talked a bit about the water sources and the problems of water for Israel if the sources are cut off by Syria -- which was a danger before 1967. Being close to nautre is an important part of the trip -- connecting physically to the land, not just to the history. From the waterfall stie one could also see Nimrod's castle, an interesting site.
We got on the bus a bit before noon and headed way, way up to the top of the Golan -- just above Kibbutz Marom Hagolan. We ate at the coffee shop (called Coffee Anan -- get the pun? Anan means "cloud" and it's high near the clouds, but you can also see the U.N. post from above). We saw the bunkers the Isareli soldiers used prior to the 1973 yom Kippur war and heard a moving account from Zvi of the 1973 war and the small acts that saved Israel from disaster when the Israeli army was so outnumbered in the north. Tales of great heroism. One interesting current fact: after the cease fire with Syria, Israel agreed to give Kuneitra back to Syria on the condition that Syria would rebuild and occupy it. So, Israel pulled back. But Syria never rebuilt it -- instead they built a new Kuneitra a couple of kilometers away. No big deal -- but when international reporters go to the old site, the Syrians tell them -- see: Israel will not let us rebuild this. How distorted history becomes when people tell lies, and reporters repeat them....
One more thing -- it's a VERY quiet border. We could actually see Damascus in the far distance because it was such a clear day! We could also see the entire Hermon mountain range -- from the main part of Israel you see one part of the range -- the Israeli Mount Hermon, where there is skiing less than two months a year. From this other corner of the Golan Heights, you can see the whole range -- extending far into Syria. On a hill just over from where we were was the newer Israeli army post -- no more bunkers. Why? Because with the sophisticated surveillance equipment now available, Israel can see right into Damascus and know if troops are massing or planes taking off. Truly makes for a good peace. And anyway, Syria doesn't want war on its own border: instead, as you can read, they are working through Lebanon to bring about anti-Israel activity. Luckily, since the pullout of Israel from southern Lebanon "security zone" in 2000, that border is mostly quiet as well.
Coming down from the Golan we drove back through the valley then headed up winding swtichbacks to the city of Tzefat -- one of the four holy cities to Jews in Israel. We began with a short tour in the old section, and visited the Ari synagogue. We stopped outside with Zvi for a talk about the importance o fhtecity and the story of Rabbi Isaac Luria, known as the Ari. We discussed and sang "L'cha Dodi" -- a Sabbath hymn emodying many of the ideas of the Lurianic Kabbalists. Then we had free time for shopping: many artists have shops in Tzefat. Also, there's a great candle shop -- and I had orders from my husband to pick up lots of items. Also bought some jewelry in a great shop I had not seen before.
From Tzefat we headed out on the bus to the town of Rosh Pina -- the first Kibbutz was founded in this area, but the founders were novices with agriculture. They even planted seedlings upside down! Today it's a beautiful spot, and we went to the Auberge Shulamit, a fantastic and beautiful restaurant (also has 4 bedrooms if you want a great place to stay up north). The restaurant is on a hill with glass windows looking out across the valley. Gorgeous with all the lights. We ate slowly; gourmet. Can't say enough about it. Will definitely eat here again. Smoked goose; sorbet. Yummmmm.....
Back at Kfar Blum around 10 pm in time for Folk dancing in the lobby which we had arranged ahead of time. So much fun! Only 7-8 of our group joined in, but there was a Young Leadership group from Charlotte, North Carolina. Lots of fun had by all, and I got to dance a couple of my old favorite dances. At 11 pm, they switched over to DJ music; lots of fokls dancing, including Rabbi Elyse, and Rich, and others. I'm here typing with the dancing in the background. What a night! Feels like vacation!
Tomorrow wake-up is 6:15 am, and we leave a bit before 8 am, and I still have to repack as we are headed down to Jerusalem. So, nighty-night. hope to get on the web again at the hotel in Jerusalem -- we'll be at the David Citadel.
Rabbi Debby Hachen

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Photos

Looking toward Lebanon on jeep ride in Golan Heights
Israel in the valley and up the hill; Lebanon in far distance.

Wildflowers
Wildflowers on top of an old Syrian army bunker in Golan Heights