Fact: Every Iranian loves Chris De Burgh

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Since arriving in Iran, I have noticed a strange phenomenon - Chris De Burgh, the man who penned that old chestnut "the way you look tonight", is like a god to the Persians. i started to play a little game - every Iranian I have met, i ask them if they like Chris De Burgh. The answer is ALWAYS the same "Chris De Burgh? I love Chris De Burgh. He did a song with a persian band, its really famous, oh wow how do you know about him?" and on it goes... In every city its always the same, and is a sure way to win friends. Even in a town like Kerman

Almost everyone I spoke to told me Kerman was a shithole. Lonely Planet says "...there are a lot of drug addicts so its worth taking extra care". The general consenus of Kerman is that not much happens after lunch, because everyone is out of their brain on opium. With all this in mind, I chose to go there anyway.

I arrive at the hotel to find it is booked out, so after a few phone calls I arrange to meet Reza, who will help me find a hotel. A short taxi drive across town costs four times the local price, when i asked the driver how much he cheerfully replies "2000.... no 4000 toman". I pay him because I am intrigued with his love of George Bush, which is quite rare in this country, but vow not to catch another cab in kerman.

Reza finds me a guesthouse on the edge of town, which looks like the ward of a psychiatric hospital. Its official: Kerman is a shithole.

The next day I'm reunited with Pat and Christina and we meander around town and do nothing exciting. I seriously contemplate knocking out the next person who says "hello mister" to me, I don't care how friendly they are. However my love for Persians shines through and I unclench my fists and do a happy-dance. I decide to get out of Kerman and go somewhere cool, like Shiraz.

I go back to the guesthouse and collect my belongings, and start the long walk to the bus terminal. As i'm walking past a shop selling door handles, i hear beautiful Persian music. I stop and look in, and see the shopkeeper playing a santur, which is like a dulcimer. And he's brilliant. He invites me in and I have a bash at it, though i am quite shite - its a pretty complicated instrument. We chat for a bit, then I mission on to the bus station.

As i walk along the road i'm summoned over by three drug affected blokes who don't seem to be making any sense, even in Farsi. They proceed to talk shit to me for a few minutes as I eye them with my wtf stare. I hear a car horn and turn around to see the shopkeeper and his whole family in the car.

"Where are you going Mister Daniel? We will take you there."

I pile into the Paykan and they take me to the bus station. He speaks little english, but our conversation turns to music. I ask him if he likes Chris De Burgh.

"I love Chris De Burgh".

Me too, Mehdi, me too. The lady in red, is dancing with me, cheek-to-cheek... but not in Iran, coz that sort of thing is against the law.....

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