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Published: August 6th 2008
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My swag on the train
FirstScot rail swag on my bunk The West Highland Way, Scotland: 95 miles:
I have wanted to walk the West Highland Way in Scotland since the first time I came here a couple of years ago. I found out about it through our couchsurfing host , Chris. Because there are no predatory animals in Scotland, I thought it would be a good place to do a long distance hike. When I was in Turkey, I decided that after Tricia and I finished our touring together, I would do it. Alone. I googled female walking the West Highland Way alone and only found a couple of entries, but from what I could tell, it seemed safe enough. I ordered a backpack, tent, sleeping bag, walking poles and started planning. I would also carry pepper spray, just in case. I became more and more excited and apprehensive the closer it got. After seeing Tricia off in the morning, I spent the day walking all around London. When I was with Tricia, most of our time was spent on a bus or in the subway, so I really didn't have a chance to get a feel of the layout of London. I found it very easy to navigate on
My bunk
On the overnight sleeper...London-Glasgow foot. I only took transport for longer distances. I was ready to sleep by the time my overnight sleeper train departed at 11pm. My sleeper cabin was very small and since I had booked a bargain berth ($40), I had to share the room with another female traveler. I had the top bunk and found my backpack would only fit on the floor, in the way. Both of us could not stand in the room at the same time. I went up to the dining car and had some tea ($4), while my berthmate readied for bed. When I returned, she was already asleep. I ended up getting about 6 hours of sleep before arriving in Glasgow at 7am. I then had to take another train to Milngavie to reach the trailhead. I thought that once I arrived there, I would get a map and everything would be self evident. I really had no idea where I need to go to find the trailhead. It turned out that the Milngavie train station is tiny and there were no maps to be found. I asked the man at the counter and he said he didn't know anyplace to buy a map.
His daughter or about 10 years told me just to follow the thistle. What is that? She said it was the national plant. I pictured looking for thistle everywhere. It is actually a symbol on the WHW trail markers (blazes). I saw a group of guys getting off the train with poles and backpacks so I asked them about the trail. They were as clueless as me. Finally, I found a sign with a map to the marker for the beginning of the trail, which was right in the middle of the town. I decided to have some coffee before I left, not knowing how long it would be until I would have that chance again.
Day One; Milngavie to Carbeth to Easter Drumquhassle 11 miles:
I set out on the trail out of town, through a park, carrying my 40 pound pack. It was raining very lightly. I passed a couple of locals walking their dogs. After walking for several hours, I was getting very tired. I had lost the trail once and ended up on a road leading to a distillery, where I ran into 4 men that had just finished touring the distillery and were
headed back to the trail. The men guided me back to the trail (they had a map) and told me they were walking inn-to-inn. Since they had no bags, I quickly fell behind. I did see them again when I stopped for lunch ($12 veggie baguette and cappuccino) in Dumgoyne (the first of many refreshment stops along the Way). During lunch, I took off my shoes and let my feet rest in the cool, wet grass. It felt so good. I really didn't want to get all geared back up and start walking again, but I did. I figured I still had about 5 miles to go. I passed a group of French people, 5 of them, along the way. They would soon become trail companions along the way. I saw a sign that said last campground and no camping facilities in Drymen, so I pretty much had to stop or walk another 7 miles or so. I saw a field next to some buildings that had walkers putting up tents. I asked a group of girls if they had carried that large tent they were erecting and they told me no way, they had it carried for them. I
decided then that I was going to get the bag carrying service ($56). I talked to the campground owner and he set me up with the carrying service. The advantage was that I didn't have to carry my very heavy pack over the next couple of very precarious legs. The disadvantage was that I had to make it to the next drop off point. I couldn't just stop and camp anywhere along the way. The next stop was 16 miles. It would be a long next day, but at least it would be light. I set up my little tent (while getting bitten by midges...not too many though), showered, ate a cliff bar, paid for the campsite ($10) and charged my pc, phone and mp3 player, then went to sleep. Ahh, it was so nice to lay down.
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Lucky Charms
Dave B
Nice Frence Crossings!
Love the fence crossings. Where are you these days?