Sept 18 Edinburgh and St. Andrews

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Thursday, Sept 18, 2008 Edinburgh and St. Andrews

I now know that this city is properly pronounced approximately “Ed-in-burrah” -- haven't been quite sure (there are some letters added and some taken away).

My hip popped or slipped or whatever it is that it's doing again this morning as I was getting ready, so I was freaked out about making it across the street for bkfst as we'd been told to do. Turned out someone had decided to set up somewhat of a bkfst over here for us, so even tho it wasn't as good, it was very helpful for me. Then I struggled back upstairs and my key wouldn't work, so I had to go back down and it took a while to get into my room (the manager couldn't get in, but a housekeeper came by and I asked her if she could and her key opened it right up). Then I had to hurry, because it was past time that the bus was supposed to leave. So I just grabbed stuff and hobbled back downstairs (thank goodness I brought along those pills and a fold-up cane, but I'm about out of pills-- fortunately, some days aspirin and liniment are enough). Then we waited for a half hour for the bus to show up!

Our local guide informed us at the end of the tour that his kilt, jacket, socks, knife, sporran, etc. full get-up cost about L600.00 (that's over a thousand dollars). We had a lively narrated drive around by lots of places where famous Scots were born or lived (Lister, Bell, Burns, etc.) and past some of the “Royal Mile” -- an annoying photo stop by Holyrood Palace - could just see a bit of it thru a big iron fence. They dropped us off by Waterloo Square near the Balmoral Hotel, so we had quite a hike up to look forward to. Several joined up and took taxis up to Edinburgh Castle. It was a bit disheartening to see other tour buses up there dropping off their groups, but TD and bus driver claim they couldn't because they didn't have a guided tour arranged for us, and proper permission to go up there. (I'm not at all sure why we even came to Edinburgh, since Insight didn't arrange for us to go to either Edinburgh Castle, or Holyrood Palace).

Edinburgh Castle is a few-to-several hundred years old collection of stone buildings rambling around on top of an extinct volcano and has had many uses over the years. Now it's war memorials, armaments displays, empty rooms that once were grand, and a place for the Scottish Honours (“Crown Jewels” -- a crown, a couple of scepters, and a few other pieces. Cobbled streets and stairs going up and about, difficult walking. There's a marvelous panoramic view of Edinburgh and out to the sea (we're again pretty fortunate with weather, a few sprinkles here and there today).

The taxi ride up was L3.85 (split 5 ways) and about a pound more going back so we could be dropped off where the bus was to pick us up. My senior entry (called “concession” over here) plus guidebook, was just under L14.00; I didn't add the audio. Had a sandwich and beer in the cafe and I think the beer was more than the sandwich (egg with tomato and spinach, rather blah). At least there's really good beer here (altho most of the food has been good actually, except bkfst). I don't think I saw even half the site - had to high grade because of my walking problem, but I don't feel that I missed much, or would want to come back (the couple who went to Holyrood, and who had previously been to the castle said Holyrood was much better to see -- I think it's furnished/decorated because the queen does occasionally stay there).

By the time we got to St. Andrews and made our first stop it had been about two hours since the last WC, and we got let off at the ruins of an abbey and a graveyard in the cold wind, with no WC visible. I went back to the bus and finally used the one on board - very tiny, and it was bring your own tissue. I used to really enjoy the photo opps of old stone buildings/ruins, but not today, altho I did get a few snaps in the graveyard. TD said something about going and organizing our tickets, and we didn't know where she went or what the tickets were for, so we had all wandered on (and a few of us came back to the bus - never did find out what the tickets were).

We had about an hour in the vicinity of the Old Course at St. Andrews. I went to the beach where a scene from “Chariots of Fire” was filmed, and took what golf related photos I could. Didn't really see much of the golf course itself - but I guess I can say I've been there. The weather was better than I expected; the course was fully booked for tee times. I did put up my umbrella because it was sprinkling and the wind turned it wrong side out, then a little later, the wind blew it right side back again. The shops were unbelievably over-priced (on “sale” marked down, a Ralph Lauren ladies polo shirt was L30.00 (that's 60-70 dollars or so), and if you wanted it to say St. Andrews it was another 20-30 pounds. Several people came back to the bus with shopping bags; guess that's why they came here. I thought about my Dad a lot, who had actually played the course a couple of times (maybe a few). You have to have a letter from your home course, and a certain handicap to get a tee time, months in advance.

Pretty tuckered when we got back, so a few of us single travelers just went across to the main hotel bar for dinner - I had the bar snack sampler platter (good), a side salad, and two pints of John Smith extra smooth (very good), for L21.05 plus tip. The beers were L3.65 each. I don't know how people afford to live here; most of the salaries aren't that great - they share flats on the outskirts I guess. (And most of them are thin). Edinburgh is a pretty big, bustling city (less than a million, tho), with lots of ancient sites to see. Our TD says it's one of her top five favorite cities, but I don't feel a need to come back here, even tho I haven't seen much here (maybe I'm just getting tired, having been on the road for about 4 weeks now, and having an unexpected physical mobility problem). I do enjoy what we have been able to see; I just wish this tour was better organized and more logical in what is included and how it is scheduled.

When I turned on the cold water tap this evening in my bathroom, the light over the sink went out. Well, we only have one more different hotel to go to, and since they keep going downhill, it will be interesting to see that one (but I spent a couple of years in Marine Corps barracks, with a bathroom shared with many other women, so I can handle pretty much anything - have even slept outside in a sleeping bag with no tent, and no bathroom in my day!).

Ah travel, it's so enlightening and broadening!

(And really can make one appreciate what one has at home).

I think I will always want to travel, even with the discomforts and annoyances, it's so wonderful to see different places, scenery, lifestyles, and histories (and thank goodness I'm self-sufficient, adaptable, flexible, independent, imaginative, etc. enough to manage it -- I can be annoyed, but still have a sense of humor about things, and carry on).

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