Oban to Barra


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September 1st 2008
Published: September 1st 2008
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Saturday 30 August - Oban to Barra

(Geoff) Today is a quiet day lolling around town in Oban before we get on the ferry for Barra. Once again we went to the shops and I am now really worried as I came away with a couple of purchases and Sue ended up empty handed. This is almost unheard of and I can only assume that I am in for big trouble once we reach Rome and Paris. I might even have to go back to work to pay off the Visa card, depending how hard she hits it!!!

At lunch time we looked around for a sandwich cafe as we are sick of little restaurants where the menu is virtually identical stodge to everywhere else. We thought we had found it in a little sidestreet off the main drag. Oh imagine our surprise when we found it was run by a Basil Fawlty type character!! Sue was alright ( for a while) but when I tried to order a roast pork sandwich, I was abruptly told I could have the roll or a lunch, as per the menu, - what was I some sort of ignorant foreigner? I succumbed and went for the lunch with veg. We then watched as other diners were regaled by this little Hitler and even his waiter offsider was given a serve (he was quite tall but was being treated just like Manuel). The final straw was when he took our plates and with a sneer, questioned Sue on why she hadn't eaten the dried out unappetising looking stuffing that accompanied her roast turkey roll. Oh Lord, give us a break!! We couldn't get out of there fast enough. And it cost it about 20 pounds for the priviledge.

After lunch, we had a quick explore and then went to line up for the ferry. Got loaded and underway about 3:30, heading for Barra. We thought it would be quiet but were surprised how many other cars and passengers were also going to the island. We met a young family with the wife's parents and a 7 month old baby, coming to Barra for a holiday. They were very informative about the island including things not to miss. The meal on board the ferry was particularly stodgy, but then I have yet to eat gourmet food on any ferry anywhere!

We arrived at the Craigard hotel around 8.30pm, only when finally served to be told they didn't have our booking. It seems there is always a few problems when travelling. They actually did have the booking but for the wrong night. Luckily it wasn't a problem as they had 1 room. Thank god as it is a long swim back to Oban. As it happened it is a lovely room looking over the bay and the castle but directly above the Saturday night band. This didn't disturb us too much as they played old classics that John would have enjoyed! I'm sure I heard Rambling Rose....

Sunday 31 August 2008

Today the Isle of Barra worked its magic on us. As you can see from the pictures Barra is sparsely populated by people and animals. It is serene and quiet. In fact you are lucky to see another person in an hour. The bay is dominated by Castle Kisimul and the rolling hills around it. As with the majority of Scotland there are virtually no trees and plenty of moors. We travelled around the island taking in quiet beaches and green rolling hills. It was a day to recharge the batteries. After lunch I slept solidly for 2 hours this afternoon. We both feel we have had a good rest.

The landscape looks bleak but the weather was calm and about 13 degrees. In winter the outer Hebrides apparently gets extreme weather with significant wind. A local publican told us that the fishing industry works mostly in Summer and only occasionally in winter due to bad weather. You can imagine what the men do for entertainment.... there are 1200 inhabitants and 7 locations for drinking including pubs, shops, the airport etc. The Craiggard owner told us his decision to buy the hotel was based on “supplying grog to an ongoing party”. Apparently these guys can really drink. In one instance during a celebration, the publican was changing a keg an hour to keep up with demand!

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