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Published: July 23rd 2009
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After our narrow gauge train ride with views of the Sound of Mull and a brief respite in the Torosay Castle gardens near Craignure (pop. 200) we headed south to Bunessan (pop. 150) and our B&B (Ardtun House). The drive is only about 31 miles in distance but you might be surprised how much time it takes to travel on single track roads, even in such a remote area. Oncoming local cars, pop up sheeps, cow herds and the occasional but very large tour bus can slow you down quite a bit. I had to control myself not to dart from "passing area" to "passing area" -- technically, the ones on the right side of the lane are for the oncoming cars. Our pictures will not do justice to the absolute stunning beauty or scale of this island's features, nor to its basic remoteness (which 3 of us really, really loved). Around every curve or hill was another breathtaking sight, and it was such an adventure getting there! Some of the things we did were to pop into the grounds of the 13thC. Duart Castle, the oldest inhabited castle on Mull by the Chief of the Clan Maclean and to stop
in Pennyghael (pop. 50) for a nosh, but the pub was not yet open and the Post Office store had a pretty limited selection. We did enjoy a yummy seafood dinner at the Argyll Arms in Bunessan after checking in at our B&B. The next day we drove to Fionnphort (pop.80) to catch the boat to Staffa and Iona (details in a separate blog). The following day we drove along Loch Scridain and the northern coast, where we saw huge velvet green mountains, rocky cliffs, a boy and his dog on a 4x4 herding a bunch of bevos (towards a campsite for breakfast and a perhaps a swim with the campers), the lovely beach at Calgary Bay with views of Coll, Tiree and sunbathing sheep, through to Dervaig (pop. 150) and finally to the relatively large urban center of Tobermory (pop. 900) where we spent the afternoon. After a pint of Guinness and a Gaelic chicken schnitzel dinner it was off to Salen (pop. 300) and onto Craignure to catch the ferry back to Oban.
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