Too Much, Too Young

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The long, hot summer has disappeared in the last few days and I find myself in the 9^thlargest city in England on a very changeable Sunday morning. A light, drizzle was falling steadily from the sky. The Other Half looked distressed that water was falling on her new car. It is a place, I do not know well. I have been on numerous occasions, but as with other UK places seen no more than I was allowed by a restrictive Police escort. I am unsure quite how I have bypassed a city of over 350,000 for this many years, but as Coventry has recently been named as Capital of Culture for 2021 I suggested to the Other Half that we get in before the crowds. She suspected an ulterior motive. She was correct. It was 3 months since I was walking down Wembley Way for the culmination of the 2017 / 2018 FA Cup and this weekend minnows all across the land set out on what they believe will be “their year”, as the 2018 / 2019 competition got underway. We will return to the football later.



We negotiated the central ring road, which is one of those horrible inner city loops – too many entrance points, too many exits and cars coming from all angles. The unforgiving concrete barriers, ready to take their toll on the vehicle if you misjudge. Fortunately, it was fairly quiet and we parked up near our ultimate objective and headed into the city centre. The immediate surroundings were not scenic. A menacing block of flats towered overhead, all of which looked like they had seen better days. We crossed over the inner ring road by a series of underpasses. The sort of underpasses that a town planner from the 1960s viewed as game changing, but now just seem act as a barrier between the city centre and the surrounding areas. It wasn’t a place you would rush to be on a dark winter night. Coventry used to look very different. The best known landmark and most visited location in the city is a ruin. St Michael’s Cathedral was largely destroyed by bombing in World War 2. The 14^th November 1940 saw the Lutwaffe launch Operation Moonlight Sonata, which as well as taking down the Cathedral saw 4000 houses destroyed along with a large percentage of the industrial plants and 800 people killed. During the course of the War, Coventry suffered more damage than any other city outside those of London and Hull and Plymouth, where the docks were continually targeted. The city is ironically twinned with Dresden, which is synonymous as the German city which was bombed into the destruction by the RAF even though other places in the industrial Ruhr Valley probably suffered more. The 91 metre tower rises high above the remaining shell. It looked quite eerie in the quiet of a Sunday morning. A few tourists wandered around, pausing to reflect. A statue in one corner of 2 figures embracing was entitled “Reconciliation”. The old alter stood open to the elements at the opposite end to the tower. Whilst the immediate section of the Cathedral quarter had been damaged, a fine set of Georgian houses on Priory Row had survived intact a few yards away. The “new” Cathedral is sandwiched in between and sits next to the ruin. It was opened in 1962. The Basil Spence design features a brutal statue mounted on the rear exterior over the door, “St Michael’s Victory Over The Devil”. The new Cathedral was to symbolise the rebuilding of the city after the War. I wasn’t taken with the exterior design, but inside it took on a whole new complexion. We waited before the morning service had finished before going inside. A huge stained modern glass window stands to the right of the entrance. The eye is led down to the alter, where racks of candle holders soar over the seating like giant coat hangers. The centrepiece behind the alter is the largest tapestry in the world. The charred remains of the old wooden cross from St Michaels was mounted on the wall at the far end.



The Cathedral Quarter was a world away from what one would imagine of the city. It could have been Chester or York. Half-timbered buildings stood side by side with more modern creations in the shadows of the ruins of St Michaels. We found the old Guildhall in the adjacent street and took advantage of the free entry. The building is now used for the occasional function in the Great Hall. A myriad of small rooms ran off the main space, including the old Council Chambers and the room in which Mary, Queen of Scots, was held during her confinement on the city. Elizabeth 1 was wary of Mary becoming a rallying point for support for a challenge to the throne and had her confined in various places across the Midlands. We walked past the old Drapers Guild building and around to the Council House. A large clock hung from the corner side elevation. The ornate gothic building fronts on to a big square. Flags of the countries of the world fluttered along the length of the front of the building. In the shadows of both of the Cathedrals is the Herbert. An art gallery and a museum, the Herbert is named after the Herbert family who once owned a great tool making business in the city. Albert Herbert Ltd finally went out of business in 1983. The contents were a mix of serious art works, sculpture and photography. We spotted a Lowry and a Barbara Hepworth among them. In order to make it a family friendly experience, child friendly play spaces and models of super heroes created an environment for learning and fun. It was free entry, so despite not having much time it gave us a taster of what was on offer should we return in the future. The main building of Coventry University flanks the square opposite the Cathedral. An industrial looking frontage pays homage to the city’s more recent heritage.



In medieval times, Coventry was a centre for ribbon making. It later became a centre for watch and clock-making. The decline of that industry saw the workers transfer their skills once more and Coventry became the centre of bicycle manufacture. We think of penny farthings and the like, but Coventry introduced the design of the “safety bicycle” and the machines of today became more recognisable. The company behind this design was Rover, which we now associate with cars. The first car plants appeared in the city in 1896 and some of the great old names of the British motor industry were based in the city Swift, Hillman, Humber, Riley and the like. Massey Ferguson produced tractors. Triumph produced motorbikes. Jaguar (now owned by the Indian company Tata) still have their Head Office and Research & Development function here, but car assembly is now elsewhere. Peugeot have a parts plant, but ceased production of cars in 2006. The only large scale production of vehicles left is the LTI plant – the makers of the famous London black taxi cabs. The decline of the traditional industries spawned another industry - music. The Specials, the Selector and others put the city on the map with music with the Tow Tone sound. Ghost Town was probably an overview of the disappearance of the old industries.



We walked away from the old quarter to the new vision of Coventry created after World War 2. The final reminder of the old was Holy Trinity Church, one of the 3 spires of the city. The Luftwaffe created a blank canvass for regeneration. The decision was whether to rebuild the old or to embrace the new. Coventry chose the latter. The shopping centre today looks like many elsewhere – a functional, concrete pedestrian space. It is tired around the edges now, but once was state of the art design at the forefront of the modern architecture. It was the first of the new wave of shopping centres, as Europe rebuilt after the War. The architect, Donald Gilbert, was only 29 when he was made City Architect & Planning Officer. He began his ambitious plans to modernise Coventry well before the Blitz, with a vision of the separation of the motor car and the pedestrians as part of his idea for a modern city. He even introduced the idea of roof top parking. Gibson didn’t see the end of his dream and moved on the Nottingham in 1955. An icon of Coventry stands in the main square in the shopping precinct. As the story goes, Lady Godiva appealed to her husband to repeal the onerous taxes being levied on the city inhabitants by her husband. She appealed without success to his better nature until he granted her wish on the condition that she ride naked through the city streets. He issued a proclamation that all residents must stay indoors and close their windows, so as not to witness the spectacle. All but one – the original Peeping Tom – obeyed. The statue of Lady Godiva by William Dick stands on Broadgate. It was unveiled in 1949 after a gift of £20,000 from a local resident. Her long hair covers her modesty along with 2 red rosettes on her bare breasts.



After a coffee, we strolled down to the Museum of Transport. A huge arch spans the plaza outside. Sir Frank Whittle – born in Coventry – stands surveying the scene. He was at the forefront of the jet engine revolution. The Transport Museum was another free entry. I was impressed. It covers the chronological history of how Coventry became so integral in the British transport story – from the early bicycles and right through to the jet cars such as Thrust that have set land speed records. A great many of the exhibits were what you would call “ordinary”, as well as classic Triumphs and Jaguars. There were cars that evoke memories, such as an early Hillman Minx and the Triumph Herald. My personal favourite was the Standard 10 in a splendid British Racing Green type colour. My mum and dad bought one from my uncle sometime in the 1960s. I can vividly remember steam blowing out the tiny engine, as it struggled getting up Ruswarp Bank on a day trip to Scarborough. I was alos drawn to the Talbot Sunbeam, largely because I passed my test in one. I hasten to add it wasn't a rally prepared model. There were buses too – clad in the original Coventry livery (which wasn’t sky blue). The selection also featured the bus from the 1987 F A Cup winning parade – which was sky blue.



Th transport theme was ongoing back outside. Electric London cab taxis. I snapped one being charged up. It was decorated in a Coventry livery - omplete with a Sent to Coventry logo and a Terry Hall. We walked past the old Grammer School and on to the Belgrade Theatre. It was another vision of Gibson and was the first civic theatre to be built in Britain after World War 2. It is now Grade 2 listed. The project was seen as a sign of the future, after the war years. When I was researching my trips to Belgrade, I would invariably google search and end up on the homepage of this theatre. I now find that it was named after a Coventry sister city, Belgrade, which donated the timber used in the auditorium. I knew of the link with Dresden, but not Belgrade. It turns out that Coventry doesn’t do twin cities by half. It has links with many more across Europe and the rest of the world. Arnhem, Caen, Saint Etienne, Bologna, Graz, Kiel, Ostrava, Sarajevo, Volvograd and Warsaw as well as a host of others including various Coventrys in America. The other thing Coventry has in no short supply is elephants. In the Council Chamber, on street signs and on the badges of their sports clubs, an elephant features. It was apparently seen as a dragon slayer and a sign of strength. It has been widely embraced.



The nearby Spon Street was the old haunt of the dying industry in the middle ages. It later became a centre for watchmaking. A number of the old medieval buildings were apparently moved here when the wholescale redevelopment of the city centre begin in the late 1940s and 1950s. Today, it is a picturesque backdrop in amongst the high rise. An IKEA stores towers over the rear of the street. The buildings are mostly retail – a record shop and the oldest proper butcher in Coventry - included. The bars and clubs mingle amongst the other trades. The street is cut off from the old city gate beyond by the ring road. The tourism element over for the day, I went through the underpass to the other side of the ring road in search of the F A Cup. The Extra Preliminary Round had been largely completed the previous day, but the Coventry United game had been moved to the Sunday. The Butts Park Arena is very central and is the usual home of the Coventry Rugby Club (as well as the local Rugby League team and Coventry United). Your City. Your Club. Your Venue. Your Venue. - it stated on the advert. There was no mention of Your United! The rugby club aspect would perhaps make todays opponents, Rugby Town, feel at home. The rugby club were formed 1874 and were one of the leading clubs in the pre-professional era, but United are very much a recent addition to the local sporting scene. The move of Coventry City from Highfield Road to the out of town Ricoh Arena has had mixed fortunes. In 2013, the team was locked out of the new ground and forced to play “home” games in Northampton. There was a supporter boycott and many looking for a football fix could find one on their doorstep – albeit a fix that currently offers no more than Midland League football. Coventry United don't rely on elephants. Lady Godiva rides across their badge on horseback. The attendance today was a mere 257. The Other Half is always keen on a seat, so the 3,000 in the rugby club main stand meant there were plenty to go around. There were 2 small areas of standing behind each goal, but they were only occupied by the vocal element of the Rugby Town fan base. A train line hemmed in one end of the ground with a periodic diesel wandering past towards Brum or wherever. I quizzed the Other Half on trains passing behind goals during a match and she was immediately on it - Brading Town FC, Isle of Wight. It was £7 entry and although that it above average at the level, I guess the club have to pay the rent. The PA announcer expressed disappointment that alcohol was prevented in the seats due to the F A rules. I was impressed by the snappy A5 size pocket programme. Why has nobody totally embraced this idea before? The home team ran out to the Kids Are United by Sham 69. I was expecting a local tune, but the man in charge of the PA had other ideas. The game itself ended in disappointment for the locals. The front line of Rugby were too quick and powerful. Danico Johnson - despite wearing his shorts like they were a nappy and having shin pads that were the appropriate size for a 7 year old - tore the Coventry backline to shreds. The linesman was given an assist for the winning goal by the jokers in the stand – they were probably correct. It finished 2-1 to Rugby. Coventry lost their goalkeeper to a straight red, as he brought down a marauding striker clean through on goal.



We walked back into the city centre and had a meal at Playwrights. The handy little Tastecards ensured a 50% reduction, which made it good value.



I grew up in a time of industrial strife and Coventry never seemed to be far away from the news when I was a teenager. The term “Sent to Coventry” was common place language and represented being ignored by work colleagues for breaking an official strike or similar. There are various stories as to the origins of the well-known saying. One is that Cromwell sent some defeated Royalist soldiers to Coventry after the English Civil War, as some form of punishment. It implied that going to Coventry was a bad thing. We hadn’t been sent. We went voluntarily and on balance, I have to say I quite enjoyed my day out. It wasn’t all roses and some of the architecture leaves a bit to be desired, but on balance the city is heading in the right direction to be worthy of the City of Culture title it will inherit.



Appendix 1

F A Cup Extra Preliminary Round

Coventry United FC 1 Rugby Town FC 2

Date: Sunday 12^th August 2018 @1500 Hours

Venue: Butts Park Arena, Coventry

Attendance : 258
Scorers : 0-1 Danico Johnson (Rugby Town) 8 Mins, 1-1 Curvin Ellis (Coventry United) 45 MIns, 1-2 Danico Johnson (Rugby Town) 64 Mins

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Photos

Museum of Transport
ChryslerTalbot Sunbeam

Museum of Transport
Triumph Dolomite Sprint

Museum of Transport
Classic Jaguar

Comments

[Rainyb]

The old & new cathedrals are awesome, esp the stained glass windows in the new one!