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Published: April 3rd 2022
Church in Darlington at dawn
It was a famous market place near the river Skern. Bishop had a massive manor house where the premier Inn and Darlington DL1 leisure centre stands today. A
spectacular bright full moon (
Worm moon because bettle larvae begin to emerge from the thawing barks) motivated me to explore the universe. I booked myself for an event in the
dark sky reserve of Keld village in Yorkshire dales. Time to put on my boots and go on a nature discovery.
I took National express
overnight bus from London Victoria to Darlington. That evening, watched
Agatha Christie's play- Witness by the Prosecution in London County Hall. A full house and the play was a
courtroom with some excellent acting. Having read too many mysteries, I guessed the twist and so it was not that much fun. Comfortable in overnight bus?
Did better in my return journey with a quieter seat at the back, my jumper for a pillow, slept across the seats and slept on without bothering to get down the bus in 30 mins break.
It was lovely to
see dawn break in
Darlington with the town centre lighting up and the
bells of the watch tower. Unfortunately the local bakeries strictly served after 8 am. Hence, it was Gregg's – a cheese pasty and coffee. It was a 1 hour ride on local bus
X26/27 from Darlington to Richmond. Richmond is the
mother of all the Richmonds of the world and means the strong hill in Norse.
It was a
gorgeous spring day. I took the
little white bus (full of
colourful ads on its white body).
Being the only passenger, it was a delightful ride in the countryside, see the daffodils, snow bells, wild garlics, streams and hear about life in Yorkshire dales from the friendly driver.
It would be daffodils and snow drops,
bluebells followed by other wild flowers in
Swaledale.
We drove by the river
Swale- the
fastest flowing river in England and called the
Jordan of England. It was in big shape with
elaborate waterfalls at Richmond by the ruins of the Richmond Fort but down by Keld, a little stream with plenty of playful waterfalls.
Keld was an important lead mining town of over 6,000 people but now had about 30 people. I deposited my luggage at
Keld Lodge and explored the beautiful countryside, skipping in and out of the
Pennine hiking way- like the fresh
lambs of the season. I noticed a few dead brown
hares by the road side. There were
stone barns scattered in the fields where farmers used to keep their cows in winter/harsh weather.
Children played in the cold waters (they have the skin for it). Chatted with a small family on a bridge over river Swale. Dinner of chicken in mushroom sauce and reading a book on the
Celts- the original inhabitants of the Europe, by the waterfall, it was a day well spent. The night was
even more exciting.
Keld residents had organised a beautiful paid evening of sky photography projections with hospitality of homemade cakes (madeira/brownies/pineapple cakes) and tea/coffee. Later, we went out in the open to identify the celestial beings. I was surprised to see
shiny moving satellites in the sky which were surely spying on us or aliens? Fantastic to identify nebula in Orion, Polaris, Acuturis and Sirius.
After a full English breakfast, I trekked 8 miles from Keld to Hawes from
Swaledale to Wensleydale. Given it was mother's day, I expected minimal traffic as the lads on motorbikes will spend time with their mothers. The mothers hardly would like to spend time in open countryside climbing up and down the hills!
Being Sunday, there was no public transport. Initially, it was an
uphill walk. I was wondered
whose brilliant idea was to construct these perpendicular roads? I crossed one hill over to another through the Buttertubs pass (526 ms is the highest point).
The hills felt like green pistachio ice cream spread generously all over the slopes with a tiny ribbon of a river flowing down. The moors had pheasants like red grouse and other birds chirping about. There
were a
few cyclists and cars. Overall, a beautiful sunny day for hiking and very much enjoyed the
natural beauty of Yorkshire dales.
Downhill, I observed more
sheep and lambs. A rude traveller said it was my problem when I asked for directions (I could not read the signs with my glasses). Thankfully, my phone network was on and so was able to figure out the location of my hotel.
Hawes was a busy little town. After a cuppa tea at
The Fountain (previously a coach station), I rushed to
Wensleydale creamery and ate the last piece of their
famous ginger cheesecake. Rambled up to
Gayle Mill and the waterfall on
river Ure.
Rest of the afternoon, I sat in the comfortable sofa of the hotel parlour in the mellow sunlight with a book in hand and my legs under the Scottish lamb wool throw. Alas,
everything closes by 7pm and it was time for dinner! A friendly pub waiter suggested an Indian restaurant. I ate a lovely mauri lamb curry. I tipped generously as the service was simply excellent.
After a
full English breakfast which was the most wonderful thing in England, I
saw it was raining. So stood with another passenger in the rain for our
local bus from Hawes to Leyburn market. The bus was in a hurry, throwing water everywhere but the Yorkshire dales looked so handsome in the rains.
From
Leyburn market took a
connecting bus to Richmond, where it was still drizzling. I opted for a
fantastic, large almond scone and Yorkshire tea at a local café. Then I walked to the
ruins of St Agatha monastery. My spectacles got wet because of the drizzle. It was not comfortable walking with hazy vision.There were
horses in the field and magnificent views just like the
scenic paintings of great European artists.
From Richmond, took empty bus to Darlington (timing as I let go the previous one full of school children). Had a so-so Italian dinner on the high street. Sat in
Premier Inn lobby reading a book till midnight to catch my bus to London.
Overall, a lovely holiday in the lap of nature.
Watching the shiny, moving satellites in the sky was a new experience.
More life outside Earth? With 2 million or so Earth like planets, possible! How wonderful it will be to make new friends from other planets. During these few days, with my
feet in such natural scenic beauty and eyes to the skies, it certainly
felt a little closer to heaven.
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D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley
Yorkshire Dales
Looks like a great trip.