London

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Well, this was the trip that almost wasn't!!!!




I left Strasbourg on the 14:16 TGV to Paris, arriving at about 16:40. I had a good hour and a half to make the train to London's St. Pancras Station in Bloomsbury. So, I decided to go for a quick walk.




I wrote a few postcards as well, with all the time I had. The only potential problem I could see was that I had to walk to from Gare du Nord to Gare d'Ouest. But I have done that, and knew it was about ten minutes away. And I knew I had to be back thirty minutes prior to departure.




Evidently, that is all I knew.






When I arrived at Gare d'Ouest, with plenty of time left. I noted that curiously, the departure board noted that the TGV to London would be boarding on the 1st Floor. I do know that in France the first floor is my second floor. But come on. There is the train sitting in front of me and there is no "second floor" with trains on it here. So, I let it pass. Oooooh, that was a big mistake!!!!






Well, at ten minutes before the scheduled departure time, I decide a little curiosity might be a good thing to exhibit. So, I ask one of the "info" people about the train to London. "Oh sir" he exclaims. "You need to IMMEDIATELY go upstairs and clear English customs before you are allowed on board the train!!!" Oh no, you have to be kidding!!!! I ran like crazy up the escalator and got through the first hurdle, the French border patrol with no problem. Okay so far.






Then, for the English border, I stood in line behind a woman with a Cameroon passport....and five kids. The English agent was asking each kid...the oldest being maybe seven or eight...all kinds of questions. I have about five minutes left!!!! Come on!!!!






I thought he would never finish. When I get up to him, he tells me that as an American citizen, I need to fill out one of the forms back on the desk. I just laugh!!! No way I make that train now!!!!






So, I figure, what the heck....I run back to desk, jot down any numbers for my passport id, say "NO" to all questions and run back to line. The agent then tells me my passport is expired....I mention that actually my visa is expired, my passport is fine.






He throws the paper I just filled out into a box and waves me through. Holy cow. I look at the clock next to the train...I have about two minutes to run across the waiting room down the stairs and into the train.





Strangely enough, I as ran over the front of the train, I noticed that the configuration of the lights and the tubes on the front of the train made a sort of sneer at me. Even the train gives me no chance!!!!






Jesse Owens would have been proud of me. Did I mention trains ALWAYS leave on time?? I look up at the clock as I fly by the engine. I have somewhat less than one minute before all the doors close!!!




Did I mention the trains ALWAYS leave on time??





I figure I don't have time to run to my car, so I literally jump into the first one I get to. As I leap into the car, I slam into the side of the door. The next sound I hear is the door sliding shut as I rub my shoulder and side. I made it by less than ten seconds!!!!





Did I mention trains ALWAYS leave on time??






Well, as the train starts to move, I make my way to my car, which is about half mile away. Well, I get to "my" seat and find someone sitting in it. Then it occurs to me. The gate number for the London train was 5. Oh Jeeeeez!!!! Did I get on the wrong train??!!!






By now, the train is in the countryside doing about a hundred miles an hour. Oh well, I guess I will have a good time wherever I end up tonight...





Just as I was about to check with the conductor, the guy sitting in my seat asks if I would mind switching with him. His girlfriend is in the next seat. Relieved, I said no problem. Besides, his seat was a window facing the way we were going.





Well, I finally settle down for the the ride to London. Which now, passed without a hitch.




We arrived at St. Pancras Station at about 8:00 pm. Of course, the first thing I did was try to find my hotel, the Mabledon Court. Cool name, huh? According to the internet, it was about one hundred meters from the train station. Which, along with the price, was the reason I chose this particular establishment.




I don't know how they count meters in London, but about half mile walk down the road, on a hidden sidestreet, I find the hotel.




Not bad...right next to a cool looking pub called Mabels Tavern. It even has a painting of an old matronly looking woman serving ale hanging from a standard.






I check into the hotel and head to my closet...I mean room. Holy cow!!!! I have never in my life seen a room this small!!! I am afraid to look into the bathroom!! I finally summon up the courage and I find a shower that would make a cruise ship shower in an inside cabin look like a Roman bath.






The shower head came down around my chest and the stall was so small, I think I actually invented three new yoga positions while trying to rinse my hair!! Honest!!!! Mary, it made me yearn for the shower in my apartment. And you have seen that arrangement.






After I did my yoga, I mean showered that night, I found the remote control for the television set. The TV was so small, I kept looking for the "Barbie" written on it!! I could not figure out how to turn on the set. Here is an idea.....How about a button that says "ON" and another that says "OFF". Or maybe "POWER".







No, instead, the remote control people put hieroglyphics on the stupid thing.....What do these symbols mean???? I think I recognized some of these symbols from the Rosetta Stone when I saw it a few days later.







After fussing with the remote control for about ten minutes, I realized the room was so small, that the TV was actually within arms reach of where I was laying. Can you imagine that?? So, I pitched the remote and just pushed the buttons on the set while laying in bed. Boy, this is the life!!!!!







When I finally got the set to work, I found myself bewildered by the vast array of entertainment on my hotel television set. It got a total of seven stations and four had the same shows, just different numbers on the dial.








Well, I had not planned on watching the tube anyway. I dozed off to the tune of busses, cars, and trucks. And oh yeah, remember the pub???? It closes real late, and people like to hang outside this hotel and scream all night. At what...I have no idea.







The next morning I was up by 7 am and had a very hearty full English breakfast of egg, sausage, toast, and an assortment of jams and butter. Very nice.






I had planned on visiting the British Museum which was maybe a fifteen minute walk away. I got down there, but found they would not open for another 30 minutes.







Since I cannot stand still for too long, I decided to walk towards the "downtown" area and see what happens. Well, about an hour later, I found myself staring up at Big Ben. Or as its real name...the Stevens Clock Tower. Big Ben is actually the name of the bell inside.







I took a few pictures of the clock and the surrounding and then decide to check out the London Eye. The last time my wife and I were in London, the Eye was laying on its side, waiting to be hoisted into position. I must say it is an impressive. It is the world's second largest "whatever it is". Someone just built a bigger one in Singapore.







As has been the case through al my travels this year, I bought my ticket and walked right onto the "flight".
They call it a "flight" because British Air sponsors it. But the movement of the contraption is more akin to slow, and I mean slow death. I guess my attention span is really not suited to a ride like this. I mean they don't even have to slow it down to get wheelchairs on and off. I mean...it moves slooooow.








Actually, the ride is very nice..Just a bit long for me. I got some great shots of the city and enjoyed my first few moments in the car. I have no idea why you would ever do this ride twice. But, if you are in London, I do recommend the London Eye....once.






At night, the ride is lit up and it makes a gorgeous addition to the skyline.





After the Eye "flight", I decide to wander over to Westminster Abbey. As usual, no line. I pay my few pounds and in I go. WOW!!!






Westminster Abbey is way more than I ever imagined!!!! I grab a free headset...always worth the price. And I proceed to listen to every station on the machine. It took maybe an hour and a half or two i lost track of time....but what a place. the history, the people, the events that have unfolded in this place. I don't think I have ever been to such a place full of such history.






And history that changed the world. I could visit here again and again. WOW!!! To think that in one form or another, this building has been around since 1060. Before the time of William the Conqueror and the Battle of Hastings. Amazing. I mean, just think William the Conqueror was crowned right over there. Every English monarch had their coronation here!! From Mary I to Elizabeth to Henry VIII. And the people buried in the Abbey. I could go on and on. Enough said. If it is summer and busy....wait in line. It was great!!!





Of course, that whole area around Big Ben and the Parliament and Westminster is just full of British and world history.





Down by the London Eye, is some sort of Savaldor Dali exhibit. Outside the building, they have either copies or originals of some of his work. All those do is encourage me to save my money and keep walking.






I guess I am just not cultured enough to understand why putting an elephants body on giraffe's legs is art. Hey, if your kid drew some of this stuff, they would have him on ADHD medication so fast it would make your head spin. Besides, I thought that is what genetic engineering is all about. As you can imagine, I keep walkng.





I estimate I walked about 24 miles that first day. I saw all kinds of sights. Many of which will come to me later.





Tomorrow, I visit Stonehenge, the Salsbury Cathedral, where one of four originals of the Magna Carta is on display, and finally, the Georgian town of Bath. I can hardly wait.







Hey, who needs to take the Tube or the bus directly when you can walk one and a half hours across one of the world's largest cities through unfamiliar neighborhoods, and around countless roundabouts??? Sign me up!!!






My one and a half hour walk turned into almost two, but, finally I found my spot and waited patiently for the bus to load. Today, I was Lou Howell, anonymous tourist on a bus marked..."Hurry up and see things, we gotta go to the next place." Wow, am I spoiled going where I went, when I want.





We got herded onto the bus and were read the rules. No eating, drinking, and if you have to go to the bathroom..too bad....don't have one of those.






After about one and a half hours, we finally made it to Salisbury Cathedral. What a neat place!! We toured the Cathedral, in lock step and forever moving in closer so as to not disturb the nobody else who was there.






After seeing things such as the world's oldest functioning, although very inaccurate clock, we marched over to the Chapter Room and took in the Magna Carta.





Everybody rushed around the room, frantically looking for the document. I think, just to mess you up, they have "copies" right by the door. I bet some people in a hurry view these and then rush out to see something else. Slow down people, I want to say. the thing is almost 800 years old. It is going nowhere. The crowd around the display is incredible. So, I wait.







Finally, after everyone has listened to the elderly lady explain how it is the "perfect legal document written with NO mistakes" and the fact that it is printed on "unborn calfskin". I decide to wander over, and for several minutes I have the Magna Carta all to myself. Of course, no pictures allowed!!






The lady starts her spiel again and I stay so long that she starts the whole thing over again...word for word. I had to ask a question...I actually think I woke her up.






But, what a document!! What it represents to the world is just incredible. Certainly to understand Western representative government you don't have to visit this sight. But, after reading about it and being taught about it from the fifth grade, what a thrill to actually see it in real life. I think with melancholy how many history teachers have uttered the words Magna Carta, taught countless students about it and yet have never had the opportunity to see it. Today, I consider myself unbelievably fortunate for this honor.






We had lunch in Salisbury and I chose the leeks and cauliflower. It was very good. If you are ever in Saibury, though, pass on the lunch and walk around the town. As we were leaving, the guide pointed out beautiful buildings, idyllic gardens, and some nice views. i wish I had known they were there. I would have grabbed a sandwich and taken many more pictures.






About an hour and change later, we got to Stonehenge. One never knows how to react when you come upon one of the greatest mysteries of the Ages. When I saw the Parthenon for the first time, it blew me away. When I turned the corner and there was Trevi Fountain, or the Coliseum, I was thrilled. Even the Castle at Disneyworld choked me up the first time I saw it at age 35!!!





And then there is Stonehenge. Mystery of mysteries. The most anyone can tell you for sure is they have no idea what it means.





As we pulled up, you see a compliation of large stones standing on a small hill. Much smaller than I expected. We drove into the parking lot and were informed that, basically, we had thirty minutes to get back to the bus. How on earth can we see one of the greatest mystical sights in the world and fully appreciate it in thirty minutes???







I was ready to go in fifteen. Although it is probably the oldest human constructed thing I will ever see, it is in essence, a pile of rocks, which no one understands. After walking around the sight for ten minutes and taking pictures...that is it. There is no film, no soundtrack, no real explanation as to what it is. I even found the handset rather bland. If you must see it .....by all means go. But I think it would better to go when one of the soltice is occurring. That would make it a bit more interesting...I think..







Now, on to Bath, and the final sight of the day. Another drive of maybe one hour plus finds us in the beautiful Georgian town of Bath. This is a town that, you really can say. time passed over. I wonder if people get tired of living in places like this??? I suspect they do.








Getting off the bus, we were led to, and assembled, by the ancient Roman Bath House. Evidently, it was rediscovered some one hundred fifty years ago, when construction was going on in the area. How it stayed "hidden" for that long, I have no idea. It is certainly big enough.







There was a huge line to get in. But sometimes, being a tourist with a number on my jacket does have some benefits.






We went right into the building and there it was. A sight that I have seen in many books. It was really neat!!! I mean a real Roman Bath that still could be used. Of course, they claim they water is not safe to go into. Although, they sell glasses of the water for you to drink. Cures everything they say!! So, later. when no one is looking, I stick my hand in the water. It is hot..they said 115 degrees. But it sure felt nice after standing in the chilly air all day.







After walking around the bath and checking out the little museum and gift shop, I removed myself from the tour group and made my way around town. Bath is the kind of place that you visit and you breath deeply and imagine yourself passing the rest of your life there, reading, ridng a bicycle to market everyday to buy fresh food...enjoying the good life. In reality, you would be out of there in two weeks. You would be bored stiff. But, hey, it was a nice thought.







As has been the case all day, I find some nice postcards and send them off to my nephew and my niece. I think when I go to Italy next week, I will include my other niece, Mads in my little postcard scheme. Would that be okay with you, Mads??? This is to see if she really reads this garbage I spew.








Before you know, it we are done at Bath and we mooooove to the bus. We actually only "lost" two people on the whole trip. It seems we left a young Asian couple back in Salisbury. I personally thaink they were part of the tour company. It is a way to "prove" to the rest of us cattle that...yes....be late...and you will be left behind.







Regardless, we arrived back in London at about 7pm or so. Of course, I got out at Victoria Station and instead of taking the train, I decided to walk. I have nothing else to do..why not???






Well, I loved the walk. It is so nice to just walk and feel perfectly safe in all directions. It is a feeling I wish I could say I have when I visit a major, or for that matter, any American city. For all the things we do so well....safety in cities just is not one of them. Too bad!!!







After stopping for a late dinner at a great little Thai place....the Thai Smile, I get back around ten pm and hit the sack. Although my room feels like a sauna. I am not sure if I have ever been in a hotel room that was so hot. Holy cow!!!! I actually went down the street and got a big bottle of water, for the dehydration I knew would come with that nights sleep. I open the window wide, letting in the 30 degree air. When the two masses of air hit, I half expected tornadic conditions....but nothing happened, so, I went to sleep.







In the morning, I knew there was only one thing left to do on my list. I still wanted to visit the British Museum. So, I walked the ten minutes and went in to see all my favorite old things. Of course, top of the list is the Rosetta Stone. It was on this Stone, in the hieroglyphics section, that I recognized some of the symbols on the remote control in my hotel room.







I went to the Parthenon room, to see where all the stuff the Brits stole from the Greeks was displayed. I have always loved this section. It is just fascinating to see the Elgin Marbles. I mean, for a thousand years, these sat atop the Parthenon, so far up, no one really could see them. And now, here they are at eye level. They are carved beautifully.








But, I think my favorite area now are the Iran/Iraq/Assyrian rooms. These cultures had everything. They were waaaaay ahead of the Europeans and then....what happened????? As I think I mentioned in the Louvre a couple weeks ago, the art, the math, the science. It was incredible and then it just went. Maybe, someday, someone will look at artifacts from the USA in a museum and ponder the same question.







Another thing i don't understand is why some sculptures are "better" than others. I look at stone sculptors in a museum and I think they are perfect. Amazing in every way possible. Lifelike, wonderful expression, human like muscle tone. Then I look at Winged Victory. Wings held together with iron, dirty coloring, rough, no head. My question is what does she have the other statue lacks??? I just don't get it. Maybe I should take an Art Appreciation class. Nah, I would probably flunk!!







After a nice lunch in the Museum Cafe and a wonderful three and a half hour visit, I bid a bientot to the British Museum. I am convinced I like it better than the Louvre. After all, there are no paintings and there is a lot more old stuff from all corners of the Earth. Those Brits stole from everybody!!!! They even have one of the statues from Easter Island!!!






I ponder what to do now. The sky has become overcast and it is definitely much cooler than it was earlier. But, I have NO interest in going back to my hotel.



I reach into my pocket to see what change I have left and..voila!! I pull out my reciept from a store and it entitles me to a "free" river cruise!!! I just have to check this out!!!!


Here we go again. I walk an hour back to the Government Building area and find the boat. Hey, nice looking boat. Althought it cannot compete with the boat on Lake Lucerne.





I check out the receipt with the guy working the crowd and he says "Yes, it is valid". Here comes the good part. I wander over to the railing, far from the crowd, which in typical tourist fashion, is jostling for position to be the first on the boat. Who cares??? I start a conservaton with a young couple from India who feel the same way. We are all leaving at the same time. What does it matter??? This boat will only be half full anyway.





Well, the guy "running" the show starts to herd everybody away from the gate and tells them to move down this new aisle he has created using these stretchy ropes. You know, the kinds that retract and then you pull them and attach them to another pole.





Well, the guy then tells me and my new Indian friends to move as well. To the new front of the line. We were just shocked!!! What??? He pulls us over to the same gate he just chased everybody away from and places us at the entrance to the boat. The best part is that the crowd was on the other side of the rope and could not even get to our side until he put the rope down.






We just laughed. Here we are....could not care less about getting on the boat, and we are put in a position far away from the crowd. To be the absolute first on that very boat. You should have heard the complaining back there. Basically, whomever was first, was now last and of course, we were first. Just the way my luck was running.






We got on the boat, walking slowly as if to tease the rest of the crowd. You could feel the hate. I sat upstairs where I figured I could get the best pictures.



After making a few stops which took forever, we cruised down the Thames to Greenwich. The funny thing is that at least three quarters of the people got off at the first stop. It was only, maybe two blocks away from where we started!!!!! Oh well.





Finally, we made it to Greenwich and it was noted that we would depart in 35 minutes. I decided, since a misty rain had come up, it would be best to go inside the boatand grab a table. I got a cup of very hot water. Evidently, the English words for "hot chocolate" translates into "extremely hot plain water" here in London.






True to their word, we set sail in 35 minutes. After we docked by the Tower of London to let out passengers, the boat just sort of sat there. I was reading my book and really did not notice the lack of progress. I have nothing to do...what do I care?? Well, after a time, the "captain" gets on the intercom and says that the tide has come in quicker than expected, and the boat cannot fit under the next bridge. You know, I thought science had that tide stuff pretty well figured out. I guess not.






Well, ten minutes turned into twenty. twenty turned into thirty. thirty turned into forty and my book no longer held my interest. I also noticed that most of the people had left the boat and had gottne their own tranportation back to wherever they were going.





So, I packed my stuff and set off the boat. I asked the girl for general directions, She claimed it would take "ages" to walk back and that the smaller boat was due any minute.





Well, about two hours later, I am back at hotel sweet hotel. I am beat and head for bed. I have had a truly wonderful adventure in the great city of London. My next trip??? Who knows??!!

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Comments

[Greek]

Marbles
Any word when they'll be giving our marbles back to us? Where are we going in Italy this weekend????

[Luwee]

I hope soon
I am currently in Riomagiore on the Ligurian coast in the Cinque Terre area of Italy..It is 60 degrees and I feel like I am in one of those puzzles I used to do when I was a little kid. It is absolutely fabulous!!! I found a 2 storey apt for 50 euros a night. With a kitchen and a huge bed. I cook every night and explore everyday. Yesterday, I walked the mountain trail from Monterroso to Vernazza. The ranger told me it was "impassable". Too much rain had caused landslides. well, in the "Dictionary for People With No Common Sense" MY dictionary..."impassable" means "I dare you". So, I went...of course. It was great. It was high up over the Med Sea and just incredible. I was in Rome for a few days and of course, Rome is just wonderful!!! I think the saddest sight in the world is to see a busload of old people zooming by all these sights with their cameras pressed on the glass of the wondow, frantically taking pictures of their "trip" to Rome. I am so blessed as to being able to stay as long as I want and see what I want. I really beleive life should be whatever the heck you want it to be!!! It is just too short. People tell me...well, I can't leave now because business sucks and I have to keep it going. Then when business is booming, the same people say..well, I cannot leave now, because I have to keep the business going...it needs me.....No, I think you need it. Well, enough lecturing. I have visited all five villages of Cinque Terre. Tomorrow, I take the 8:56 to Pisa...direct..thank goodness...it is about an hour ride. I am not able to add pictures to website, but I am putting commentary on as I think of useless crap, which is constantly if you know me!!! Thanks for the email....take care..