Hull, Hell & Happiness

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Driving across the North Yorkshire Moors in the early 1990s, the voice of Tracey Thorn boomed out of the car stereo. "I would like to live like anybody else. In One Place". I was on my way home, after another long day trip to North Humberside. I say North Humberside tongue in cheek. The incarnation of the Local Government Act 1972 came into being in 2 years later and was never very popular with the residents. I used to address letters to an office up Holderness Road with the North Humberside postal moniker and the said recipient religiously crossed it out. He would leave envelopes for my future inspection with all references of Humberside replaced with the words, East Yorkshire. The Beverley Ring Road, Wetwang, Norton, Malton, Hutton le Hole and up and over past the Lion Inn at Blakey. Three days a week for about three years, this was my routine. Work dictated, but oh how l just wanted to be in the one place like everybody else. Hull wasn't that place. At the time if I had never seen Hull again, it wouldn't have worried me. So 30+ years on, I find myself wandering down Princes Avenue wondering what if anything has changed?

There was always a lot of life in the Princes Avenue area. The area was first developed in the late 1870s, as an upper middle class residential district. Pearson Park was handy for recreation and the developers added a bit of status by building decorative fountains on Westbourne, Marlborough, Victoria and Princes Avenues. The area was subsequently favoured by intellectuals, artists and those involved in the creative industries. In 4 blocks between Princes and Chanterlands, residents included Philip Larkin, Jean Hartley - Larkin's publisher, Anthony Minghela - film director, Amy Johnson - aviation pioneer and Ian Carmichael - actor. Two of that number have more than a green plaque - they have statues in the city. If I discovered nothing else on this visit, I can confirm Hull loves a good statue. A handy map has been created to allow you to walk the Avenues and see the green plaques. The work office to which I was assigned was on the corner of Marlborough and Princes, which made it a good vantage point to see all the comings and goings. One of the "famous" people not listed above or on the map in question, was one of those regularly wandering by. Roland Gift, actor and lead singer of the Fine Young Cannibals, lived down Marlborough. I always thought it quite surreal that one of the stars of big blockbuster films like Scandal and singer of She Drives Me Crazy, was walking past for his paper and a pint of milk at the height of his fame. The only real clue to his celebrity status was a better than average car for the neighbourhood. The proximity to the University further north has made the area a popular student choice for rental houses in recent years and a good selection of restaurants and independent shops still thrive on Princes Avenue. The office base at Princes Avenue was a short lived experience. Plans had already been made before my arrival to move to one of these new fangled business parks out by the Humber Bridge. It was called progress in certain circles, but I always thought it was lifeless .... there was no adjacent community, shops or restaurants, nowhere to go at lunchtime - just the Humber flowing past on one side and the traffic racing past on the A63. The "new" office was supposed to launch an increase in business, but it was closed all too soon after a strategic review retrenched the company's presence to the big cities. There was no place in the corporate vision for the likes of Hull, Middlesbrough and Lincoln.

My first brush with Hull was in the early 1980s. My friend collapsed in a heap on the floor with his A Level results envelope, in a combination of relief and surprise. He was off to Hull University. Auckland and Cranbrook Avenues, Hullfire student mag, the Polar Bear and The Zoological would become the new haunts for him. The latter was a bit of an institution and had been around since the 1840s on the corner of Spring Bank and Beverley Road. It looked like it too - I recall huge wooden supports on the gable end wall keeping the whole place standing. The Polar Bear still stands, but the "Zooey" closed the doors in early 1985 and the bulldozers achieved what the Luftwaffe never managed. I noted that the Hull Daily Mail now stands in it's place.

The Hull connection came in mighty handy when the SW6 gang drew the locals in the FA Cup. After a period of bad weather and postponements in early 1982, the original tie at Stamford Bridge was a 0-0 on a Monday night. No Sky TV then .. just added on a Monday night to ensure game was decided before the next scheduled round date. The replay was 72 hours later on a Thursday. The small snag was that no tickets would be available for the visitors, after a seat throwing competition in Derby and the game would be "all ticket" on the Thursday night. The Hull University representative was duly dispatched to the old Boothferry Park to buy some "home" tickets and we were sorted. The 200 or so that beat the "ban" were treated to a rare Alan Mayes goal and two days later, it was all systems go for Wrexham in the next round (in a tie that went to 2 replays in North Wales with the "ban" still in place. Fortunately, a lad in our flat hailed from Prestatyn so the Football Association ban was circumnavigated again with ease). Doesn't it make you wonder what these modern football prima donnas are moaning about, when they say they need rest and squad rotation?

All roads might have led to the Zoological in 1982, but round the corner at the bottom of Beverley Road another building was to play a major role in a musical sense. Turners Furniture store prided itself on being able to provide everything for your new home ...... everything that is, except "the girl". Ben and Tracey met at Hull University. Both signed independently to Cherry Red, the name they chose for their joint musical releases was the slogan of the Turners shop. The "Turners - Everything but the Girl" shop sign might be long gone - the shop is long since closed down and replaced by the Hull Chamber of Commerce - but the band is back. Everything But The Girl have just released their first new music in over 20 years. I dig out the 1982 12 inch vinyl of Night and Day for a listen, as I write.

We relocated to the other side of the city centre. "The Deep" end, I suppose you would call it these days. When you casually drop into conversation that you were thinking of paying a visit to Hull, heads turn in pity. The facial expression almost offers you sympathy. Why? Hull isn't really on the way to anywhere - well maybe Hornsea or Withernsea or a journey to a North Sea ferry. The North Yorkshire Moors would be awash with cars bearing Dutch and Belgian registration plates in the early 1990s, but chances are 90% had taken the exit route straight out of the conurbation. Next stop York or maybe Beverley. Hull is down a corridor - the M62 - not somewhere you get close to passing on any North - South journey. Kistie Allsopp, property expert, apparently branded it as one of the worst places to live in 2005. I think it is safe to say, she hadn't been paying too much attention to the grand houses out Hessle way. The status aa City of Culture 2017 changed all that. It was the springboard for good things, changing Hull into a destination and not an afterthought. A £200 million investment heralded galleries, workshops, art spaces and prompted over 95% of the locals to participate in at least one City of Culture event during the year.

We parked up near the Marina, on the site of the old Railway and Harbour Docks. It pre-dates the current regeneration and has been in situ since 1983. The adjacent area is the Fruit Market. Once the fruit and vegetables came straight off the boats and into the warehouses around Humber Street to be traded or packed up in lorries for distribution around the country. At the height of trade, it is rumoured 20,000 lettuces were sold every week. Things change - post Brexit in 2023, major supermarkets are struggling to even source 20 lettuces. The original Fruit Market went out of town, leaving the area devoid of life. Today, Humber Street is one of the social hubs of the city. Galleries, bars, restaurants and art workshops thrive in the old fruit wholesalers premises. Upmarket flats and townhouses are being developed on streets, which maintain the old cobbles and in some cases the railway tracks used to bring products to and from the ships in port. We settled in a very dog friendly environment, Thieving Harrys, for a coffee. The eatery was buzzing at lunchtime this bright and breezy Sunday - locals and visitors alike tucking into brunch menu. The name is derived from the reputation of one of the old Directors of the fruit business, that occupied the premises. His photograph adorns the interior ground floor wall. We walked round to the waterfront. The Minerva pub now sits in prime position to take advantage of the changes to the area - the change is reflected in the offering of a bespoke cocktail list alongside a pint of Tetley. The smallest pub room in the country lies within. I paused to photograph the Merchant Navy Memorial and the statue of Sir William de la Pole. A wealthy wool merchant, royal moneylender - he bunged a few quid to Edward II so he could put the French in their place. The statue next door is called Voyage - a sort of tribute to the many fishermen who left Hull in search of the cod. The statue was ironically a gift from the people of Iceland - ironic given the "Cod Wars" fought between the two over fishing quotas and territorial waters.

We looked across to The Deep. The Deep, completed in 2002, is the iconic building on the waterfront. A family attraction full of sharks, rays, turtles and other creatures of the deep, the building sits at the junction of where the River Hull meets the Humber Estuary. It cost £53 million to build and is billed as the "world's only submarium". 2,500,000 litres of water fill the tanks. Who knew 7 species of shark could be spotted in Hull. The Deep is a centre for marine conservation and you can even have a family sleepover to bed down and keep an eye on the nocturnal activities of the marine world. Well you can, if you have £2,000 to spare. On the plus side, pizza is included for your evening meal!

The full name of the city isn't Hull. Kingston upon Hull is the formal name, but more often than not Hull suffices. The River Hull lies just beyond The Deep. It rises in the Yorkshire Wolds near Driffield and passes through Beverley on its way to the Humber. The 1980 flood barrier guards the entrance. There isn't much evidence of current river traffic and the banks and channel are heavily silted. The east side of the city lies beyond along the Holderness Road. Walking inland up the River Hull leads to the Old Town, an area characterised by narrow streets and Georgian buildings. The city prospered in the 16th and 17th centuries, trade boomed with the ports of the Hanseatic League around the Baltic and fine residences were constructed. We passed the statue of King Billy. The gilded statue of a Roman Emperor on horseback has been in situ since 1734 - a thanks for the city's support for William of Orange. One would suppose many other cities could boast something similar as loyal to the cause, but apparently only London and Bristol share the glory.

The Old Town area of Hull is home to museums - the former home of slavery abolitionist, William Wilberforce, included and old ale houses - the George Hotel boasts the smallest window in Hull. Bishops Lane contains a plaque to one of the first BBC local radio stations - an unassuming house was the nerve centre between 1924 and 1928. Hull Minister might not have the name or prestige of York, but a fine looking religious building it is none the less. The area also contains one of the strangest street names in the country - The Land of Green Ginger. The blue plaque referenced the book of the same name, but the real origin of the name is unclear.

The gateway to the New Town - Beverley Gate - also played a significant role in English history. It transpires that the rebellious nature of Hull folk was not restricted to crossing out North Humberside from envelopes and adding East Yorkshire. King Billy might have curried favour in Hull, but not all royalty had received similar good press. At Beverley Gate in April 1642, local Governor Hotham denied King Charles I access to the city and this was perceived to be one of the first sparks of the English Civil War. The New Town is a very different world to that in the older part of the city. It is a concrete world. The proximity of Hull to mainland Europe and the density of docks and industry made it a favoured target for the bombers in World War 2. The Humber Estuary was highly visible from the air, so even in the worst of weather it remained a easily identified location. Along with London, Hull became the most bombed city in Britain. 1941 was the peak. It is thought that 95% of the houses of the city were either destroyed or damaged by bombs. The destruction was never reported for fear of giving advantage to the enemy. The London Blitz is widely documented and today, Coventry is often cited as a city destroyed in modern reflections. The Cathedral still bears testament. Hull Minster survived, but the devastation was just referred to as inflicted on a " Northern Coastal Town". The first daylight bombing of any British city was on Hull. Even in the latter stages when London was targeted with V2 flying rockets launched from the Low Countries, the German hierarchy considered Hull worthy of a piloted bombing raid!

I walked on into Victoria Square, where Queen Vic surveys her citizens. There is a local joke on how she is still on the "throne", given her proximity to a public convenience. King Billy was similarly situated, which begs the question of why statues are sited in such positions in the city. The Queen Vic stands with a back drop of the City Hall. The Ferens Art Gallery stands opposite. Thomas Ferens has his name all over Hull. He helped establish Reckitt as a major business and donated parts of his wealth to fund the art collection housed within and towards the establishment of the University. He did okay for a lad born near Shildon, who started out his working life in Stockton.

I move on past the former site of one of my favourite places in Hull city centre. Sydney Scarborough was an independent iconic record shop - a purveyor of vinyl and stockist of those subversive pieces of literature that flourished in the late 1980s / early 1990s - the football fanzine. There were the national publications, such as When Saturday Comes and The Absolute Game and those that covered the trials and tribulations of the local clubs. I have a few of those East Yorkshire publications, but the predominant one in the pile is Hull, Hell & Happiness. If you Google the title these days, you are likely to arrive at a 2018 book of the same name by Frankie Sheppeck. However, the Hull Hell & Happiness in question is one of those snapshots in football time produced on a kitchen table bemoaning the state of the toilets a Boothferry Park or the lack of ambition in hawking Andy Payton et al around at a below market value. I think the production run was limited to a mere 14 or 15 editions.

It wasn't football on the mind of the locals today. The black and white tops meandering around the city centre were worn by followers of Hull FC. It is tempting to think Hull Football Club and that is technically correct. However, the football in question is Rugby League. Hull City Association Football Club are the Tigers of Hull, Hell & Happiness, who play with the round ball. The only similarity between the two is that they share the same ground on the west side. The east side is the domain of the other Rugby League team, Hull Kingston Rovers, who play beyond the River Hull at New Craven Park in the Holderness Road direction. If you aren't from the main industrial belt of northern England, Rugby League is often overlooked as a bit of a peculiarity. In Hull it is held in such high esteem, that the main link approach road from the Humber Bridge is named after their more famous Rugby League. The Clive Sullivan Way is a tribute to the man who clocked up circa 550 appearances representing both Hull FC and Hull Kingston Rovers FC. There used to be graffiti on one of the bridges that read, "Last One Out, Turn Out The Lights" - a reference to Hull FC v Hull Kingston RFC Challenge Cup Final at Wembley, which drew a crowd of 95,000 south to Wembley. I have only been to 2 Rugby League games in my life. Both featured Hull FC. The first occasion versus Halifax at the old Boulevard ground off the Hessle Road was a bewildering experience. At the time, football often featured more action on the terraces than on the pitch and I was expecting a leisurely afternoon with a couple of beers. However for a "family sport", there seemed to be a fair bit of crowd trouble that required a bit of concentration to avoid and the game made no sense to me anyway. I noted that all 3 professional teams played in the city the weekend of our visit. Hull FC drew 15,383 for the visit of Castleford and Hull Kingston RFC drew 9,800 for the visit of Wigan. Meanwhile, Hull City mustered 17,776 for the visiting clash with Preston North End on the same day Hull Kingston RFC were playing on the other side of town.

The Hull FC game that afternoon leads me on to a unique feature of Hull. The game was played at the MKM Stadium, which was formerly known as the KCOM. The white public telephone boxes that still adorn the streets are the only outward facing clue that Hull has it's own communications company and system. At the turn of the 20th century, a number of cities had their own network which were gradually absorbed into the national Post Office (later British Telecom) network. In 1914 Hull were required to renew their licence and at the vast sum of £192,000 the forerunners of the City Council, decided to go ahead with the formal purchase of the infrastructure in the city required to keep operating independently. Kingston Communications continues to this day, beating the British Telecom empire to ensure Hull went fully digital voice as early as 1989 and offering full fibre broadband to every household by 2019. It puts into perspective the rediculous boasts by the current national Government about the merits of their Levelling Up agenda - a company in Hull has led the nation on this and as the Conservatives like to say, already delivered ... years ago!!

I walked on to the railway station or the Paragon Interchange, as it is now known. The only things that caught my eye en route were the 1897 Hepworth Arcade and the War Memorial. arriving passengers are greeted by Philip Larkin .. or at least the statue of the man. The celebrated poet and writer lived the last 30 years of his life in the city and held a position as University librarian. However, it was not Larkin that I had really come to see. A few feet away a blue plaque commemorates the Spiders From Mars. It recalls that David Bowie's band at height of Ziggy fame left on their travels from the Paragon. Mick Ronson, Trevor Bolder and Woody Woodmansey all hail from this part of East Yorkshire. A lot of the great guitar riffs on classic albums, The Man Who Sold The World, Hunky Dory, The Rise & Fall of Ziggy Stardust and Alladin Sane, weren't formulated on Mars - they were the work of Hull City Council parks gardener.

The final port of call on today's tour was the Humber Bridge. Opened in June 1981, it was the longest single span suspension bridge at the time - a title it held for 17 years. It replaced the old ferry options and opened up a direct link into Lincolnshire between Hessle on the north side and Barton on Humber. The bridge is truly impressive and worth every penny of the £1.50 toll. If you prefer, pedestrians can walk across for free. My mini exploration of Hull was over. I started the day wondering if anything had changed. It definitely has .... and for the better.

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Photos

Former Turners Furniture Store, Beverley Road, Hull
... where Everything But The Girl sourced their name

Comments

[Dancing Dave]

Mighty Fine Door
I'll post this in TB's "Doors, doors & more doors" thread in the Photography Forum as "its a mighty fine door" if I may so exclaim! Check 'em out.

[John Miranda]

Hull, Hell & Happiness
Cheers .. and thanks for reading.

[Rainyb]

Loved this one, esp the bridge!