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Published: March 26th 2007
Cadgwith true Cornish village
Monday, 26 March
We awoke at 6am after 12 hours deep sleep, much needed after the . We read the papers, wrote some blog, and watched British morning TV. The news of the moment is the captured British Sailors and the murder of cricket coach Bob Woolmer.
Breakfast and a cup of tea later, we checked out of the hotel and the car company picked us in their shuttle bus. It turned out that the car we had booked was a Môndeo, and it was manual. Jeff is sure that he booked an automatic car, which was described as a Honda Accord on the website, but the staff assure us that they no longer have Accords, and they are all manual in this class anyway. We upgraded to the next car class, which gave us an automatic, a C class Mercedes, and we were on our way. However we couldn’t get the satellite Navigation system to work, so back we went. The staff said there was something wrong with it, so gave us a complimentary upgrade to a Volvo Estate wagon, but it turned out that Sat nav in this one was in German, so back we went.
After a Pastie
Cornish hospitality with Della and Barbara
It seems like the staff at SIXT rent a car aren’t very familiar with their cars or the Sat Nav systems, but three people later, it was rectified and we finally set off for Cornwall.
We made it out of Heathrow and on to the M3 and eventually the A3. The navigation was difficult to program, and it was taking us on the main roads when we actually preferred to take the more scenic ‘B’ roads. We eventually turned our little friend off, and made our own way to Exeter.
A stop off for at a small town called Ivybridge at the Imperial Pub, where we went through the directions of the Sat Nav and learnt a little more about how to program it. The Pub was typically English and after a beer and lunch we were on our way. We drove through many villages and towns, and we both felt we were getting into the ‘real’ England. In one village we had to cross a narrow stone bridge and we had to give way to an elderly man in an electric scooter.
There was a lot of roadwork here and there but made good time, and
arrived in Falmouth at around 4pm. We stopped first at a family friend, Della Rowe’s house, and had a cup of tea. We have met Della on several occasions in Australia, she is one of Paul’s mother Betty’s’ best friends. She promised to make Cornish Pasties for us at her home tomorrow evening. Jeff is looking forward to comparing her Pasties to Betty’s.
We checked into the Grove Hotel on the waterfront, excellent views and very handy to all the shops in the High Street. Later on we went to the Chain Locker Pub. Paul’s family have been locals at this pub since the early 1900’s, although Paul’s Uncle Jim no longer frequents it. We had a few pints, but Paul was disappointed that the staffs aren’t as friendly as they were on his previous visits. It was still a nice atmosphere though with lots of nautical memorabilia.
We walked up to the Moor, a square in the centre of Falmouth. We went by way of Jacobs Ladder, a very steep staircase of about 250 steps. Dinner was at an Indian restaurant, and the meal was quite good and reasonable priced. Feeling a bit full we
went home by way of Jacobs Ladder, up this time! It’s a hard climb!
Tuesday March 27
Paul contacted his Uncle Jim, and we arranged to meet him at 11am and take him to the Seven Stars, his favourite pub, which is owned by a Parson. Jim Morrison is a well-known character in Falmouth. His knowledge of the sea and his life is amazing and captivating. We could listen to him for hours. After a few pints we made our way to one of the old Pastie shops in town, for one of their lovely golden treats. Later we walked to the Quay to go catch a ferry to Flushing, a small village across the way from Falmouth. It was a quaint place, and after walking around and seeing all the cottages we had a pint at the pub. We could not believe the time, it was time to go home and get ready to visit Della.
We arrived and Della had invited a friend of hers, Barbara, who accompanied her on her last trip to Australia. We had met Barbara one night at our home, so it was fun to catch up, and the Pasties we
A very popular pub in Falmouth
excellent! Relaxing in a friend home is always nice, instead of a hotel room or restaurant.
Both of their knowledge of Cornwall helped us plan the next few days. Feeling tired we said our goodbyes and came back to the hotel for a well earned rest.
Wednesday March 28
After a hearty English breakfast we drove to Marizion, located next to St Michaels Mount. Unfortunately the mount, housing a former monastery atop a rocky outcrop linked by causeway to the mainland, is closed for renovations and we missed the tide to walk across the causeway. Marizion is another typical Cornish village and we walked through the quaint streets taking photos and admiring the views.
Next stop was Lands End, the southern most tip of the UK. It was very windy and filled with tour buses. Paul felt is had become commercialised since he was last there in 1980. We weren’t able to see much out to sea, probably less than 1 Kilometre due to mist and haze.
Next stop was Penzance for Fish and Chips on the Promenade. The Promenade is your typical English seaside setting, just so relaxing to sit there and take it
Jim Morrisson and Paul
Paul's Uncle Jim having a beer at the Seven Stars
in. We both commented how many families must have taken holidays here in over 150 years.
Our next and last call stop was a tiny fishing village called Cadgwith, recommended to us by Della and Barbara as a really typical small Cornish village worth visiting. So small in fact that the Sat Nav couldn’t find it!
Instead we asked the locals for directions. This is the atypical Cornish fishing village. We had a steep drive down very tiny and windy lanes to get there.
There were 3 boats in the cove and all of the fisherman were packing up and cleaning the boats after a days work. Jeff commented on how it was so cute that it was like being on a movie set. We both felt like intruders and we realised that we were Emmett’s (a Cornish term for outsiders).
Thursday March 29
Our last day in full day in Falmouth, and off to see Pauls old church, St Marys. As Falmouth is on a hill it is easier to get to either end by cutting across the hill. After the exercise we arrived at the Church, and an old family friend of Paul’s was there.
Jeff at Lands End
A very commercial landmark, loads of buses and cold
He recognised Paul, and he told us of the day when Paul’s family left Falmouth and other anecdotes.
In front of our hotel is the one of the several British National Maritime Museums, this being built in 2004. It was very modern with a emphasis on small working and pleasure craft. It also has a magnificent view of Falmouth Harbour, and the local farms.
The weather started out sunny today, but as the day wore on there was scattered showers and even small hail. We drove to the highest point in town, site of Pendennis Castle with great views in every direction. It was so cold, with biting wind and hail. The Castle was built by Henry VII overlooking the entrance to Falmouth Harbour, and we could imagine how cold this fortress would be in days of bad weather.
After leaving the fort for the warmth of the car, we made our way to Mylor to have afternoon tea with Paul’s cousin Jean, who lives in a farm cottage built in the 1700’s. It was great to see her, and her daughter and children were visting from Oxford, so good to see them also.
a fruit and vegetable shop on the way back, and saw Raspberries for 99p a punnet. Being a favourite of Jeff’s, and usually so expensive at home we bought some to enjoy in the room with a bottle of Perrier Jouet Belle Époque 1999 Champagne, which was given to Jeff by the crew of the British Airways flights from Dubai to London for his birthday.
We went up the street for pint at the Grapes pub, and later on went to a funky restaurant in a basement in Arwenack St., called 2-10. We had a couple of starters each as we were not particularly hungry, and it was a good choice.
Friday March 30
Up early and packed, and checked out. As we were leaving the main street of Falmouth the smell of pasties baking will be memorable to the both of us. We drove to Della’s house to say our goodbyes and to our surprise she had just baked some of her wonderful pasties for us, so kind and thoughtful.
We made our way to Newquay, actually Watergate Bay, to Jamie Olivers restaurant, Fifteen, for lunch. It is a beach facing the Atlantic and very
A great hotel and very convenient
popular for surfers it’s a very tiny village that is about to boom with 7 storey apartments being built, it came a a surprise to see this development after seeing several Cornish towns.
We arrived at Fifteen early, and lucky we did, as the car park was getting full due to a Wind Kite competition that was about to start. We were given a table right by the window overlooking the bay. Other diners started to arrive and the place was quite busy. Fifteen had a very funky décor, the women staff wore a hot pink top and the men wore brown and pink.
It was so relaxing looking out to the blustery sea view in front of us. Unfortunately the wind was not strong enough for the kites to fly. We ordered a Marlborough Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc, and toasted Louisa, our Mini Smooth Dachshund, who had given birth to 2 puppies a Red Boy and Black and Tan Girl yesterday.
Paul chose a Wild Garlic Soup to start, and Jeff a Duck Egg and Prosciutto Salad. For main course Jeff chose local Venison with Polenta, and Paul chose a Baked Pollock (fish) and Mash. For
A view from Falmouth
A great hotel and very convenient
dessert we shared an Apple and Date Crumble, and a Valrhona Chocolate terrine with Praline Cream.
After enjoying our meal, it was time to set off for Bristol. We programmed the Sat Nav and were off through Exeter again, and after a couple of hours on the motorways arrived at our hotel in Bristol.
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