Enemy at the Gates

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July 19th 2012

Published: July 19th 2012

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povertyjetset

Approaching Volgograd from the North

Мамаев Курган in the distance. I think we were about 3 or 4 kms away.

Riveting WWII movie recounting the Battle of Stalingrad as primarily seen by Russian sniper Vasily Zaytsev played by Jude Law. Also starring Ed Harris and Rachel Weisz. The name of the city was changed in 1925 from Tsaritsyn to Stalingrad and again in 1961 to Volgograd, i.e., Volga City

Arrived in Adler this afternoon where, like this same time last year, it is extremely hot and packed with summer holidaying Russians.

Accommodation and food For the roughly 24 hours total I would spend in Volgograd I had always been planning to be able to find a bed at the train station hotel because it was really the only budget option in town. Not only that it was very convenient to all the sights. It was huge, maybe 100 beds or more, and I had no problem finding a bed in a 5 person dorm for 600p. for 24 hours commencing at 12:00 pm. So to stay until my train departed just after 5 pm I had to pay another 243p. but that was actually a bargain compared to the left luggage office which would have cost almost the same. And the showers were included unlike the last train station

Мамаев Курган

The Motherland Calls

crash pad in Barnaul where a shower was 50p. Here there was also free cold, bottled water. Lots of stolovayas and cafes around but I frequently found myself at Островок Вкуса (The Island of Taste) at the corner of Lenin and Gagarin. I'm not sure about the island theme but the food is good, desserts are incredible, coffee is cheap, and WiFi is free. Good coffee machines are also located in the train station but one accepted only bills and the other only coins.

Transport All I remember about the 23 hour train ride from Kazan to Volgograd last Monday was the stifling heat and the long breakfast stop in Saratov where there was a great cafe upstairs at the station and a nice coffee machine just below the rail platforms. Departed Volgograd yesterday evening for Adler where I arrived today after more than 19 hours in a new, air conditioned 3^rd class carriage. Platskart was 1361p. The only local transport of any consequence in Volgograd was the tram running under Lenin Street to Mamayev Kurgan a few kms north, 15p. each way. Can easily walk to the Panorama and Memory Museums from the train station.

Мамаев Курган

Мамаев Курган

(Mamayev Kurgan) Easily the most impressive monument I've ever seen up close. At one time the highest free standing monument in the world. Many other sculptures in the immaculately manicured park. Free entrance.

Panorama Museum Dedicated to the Battle of Stalingrad. Lots of weapons, artifacts, signifcants' personal effects including Vasily Zaystev's rifle, and several dioramas depicting various scenes from the defense of Stalingrad. Nearly all descriptions in Russian which was kind of a bummer. Allow half a day if you can proficiently read Russian and are very interested in the explanations. 100p. entrance fee, much more with a guided tour, maybe 1500p., and I'm not sure if there are tours other than in Russian. Tours are not necessary to view the enormous 360° diorama contrary to what is written in my guidebook.

Memory Museum More of a history of Stalingrad during WWI and the Russian Revolution. All captions in Russian. 50p. entrance fee.

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