Ice ice baby

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We arrived in Irkutsk early evening and stayed in the Transiberian Hostel – highlight of which was a dog named “Mushy” –Russian for fly apparently. He was a very friendly small black Labrador that sang when cuddled. Irkutsk is a pleasant city and was warmer than we’d been used to; the next day was spent wandering round the centre and the markets, also searching in vain for a tour to Lake Baikal. We discovered we’d arrived inbetween the frozen and unfrozen window on the lake. That meant the ice wasn’t thick enough for driving over or dog sledging, but hadn’t melted enough for the boats to run! Our planned visit to Olkhon Island on the lake was clearly not possible! Not deterred we made our way the day after via tram (the female conductor was very helpful, roping in half of the passengers to make sure we got off at the right stop) and then minibus van to Listvyanka – a small but spread out village on the lake shore.

We picked an Eco Hostel, a log cabin style building, which we found so relaxing that we stayed for four nights. The lake was amazing – a vast frozen mass that loomed in front of you as far as the eye could see. It really looked like a scene from the “Frozen planet” TV series. A few Lake Baikal facts for you. It’s 400 miles long and between 20 & 40 miles wide at various points. Its 1642 metres deep – the deepest lake in the world. They don’t bother trying to rescue dead bodies from the lake as within 2 weeks they will have been entirely consumed by crustaceans. It contains 20% of the world’s drinking water and if all other water sources ceased to exist it could supply the world’s population with drinking water for over 35 years. It’s pretty big.

Whilst in Listvyanka we packed plenty in despite the relaxing atmosphere. Activities included:-
Visit to the Baikal Museum including a “mock submarine trip into the depths” and a look at the native Baikal Seals.Long hike to a superb viewing point above the village with wildlife including a Great Spotted Woodpecker, countless butterflies & a small tick which attached itself to Tina causing the first medical emergency of the trip (the jabs were clearly worth the money!) Don’t worry – Tina was very brave and it was safely removedWe hired bikes for a cycle alongside the lake – one didn’t have brakes. The other barely had themA traditional Russian Banya – this was a sauna type thing which also involved whacking each other with birch leaves – great fun!Mark sampled the native to Baikal fish delicacy cooked on the market next to the lake– Omul. It was very flavoursome – similar to Mackerel – although unconfirmed reports suggest it caused a minor stomach upset the next day.


The most impressive bit of the Baikal experience was simply standing there, watching and listening to the icy lake melting in front of us. It was an unforgettable naturally beautiful sight and one that we’ll both remember for a long time. On one morning, after a very windy night, half of the ice in view had been blown along the lake leaving a large expanse of water in front of us before the ice started again.

We reluctantly said our goodbyes to the lake and headed off to back Irkutsk, unfortunately the train we wanted was over full so we had to wait in the station hotel until 4.00 am when we caught the Moscow to Beijing weekly train – destination Ulaan Bataar and Mongolia.

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[Jabba]

"Jabs are always worth the money" you bet we are...!