Whitewashed Old World

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Perhaps, to understand Russia better it is such old towns as Pskov that one should visit. It was first mentioned in the chronicles in 903 and is one of the oldest Russian towns. The past of the town is rather glorious, it underwent attacks by different nations, if you care to learn more about it, defended itself and flourished. I first thought of visiting Pskov as far back as 2009, and also planned to see it in 2011 several times, but only now I fulfilled my dream. By the way I did not go to see the Estonian Narva as I planned, purely due to my mistake of purchasing tickets with a too early departure time. I’ll see Narva on a day trip next time.

The worst thing about this day trip was getting up at 5-50 in the morning to catch the commuter train at 7-25. I am more often than not greatly depressed for some 5 minutes if I get up so early but I firmly set up the alarm clock, come what may, because I wanted to have this whole day off, and if I stayed in the city some job might pop up. As soon as I got up I looked some data about Pskov in the web and the numerous list of its churches finally convinced me. It was a rainy and cold morning. Please do not visit Pskov unless you want to see the Russian whitewashed ancient architecture.

The ticket costs some 25 Euros both ways; be informed that they sell TWO tickets, one St. Petersburg to Luga, and the other Luga to Pskov, there is no inconvenience about that and no need to change any trains (I am at a loss to guess why it is so done) but simply sit for 4 hours. The train has only seats, but is goes rather fast and makes only short stops each 30 minutes or so, most people being bound for the final destination. Bus and train connections are also available, but I did not want buses and trains (by the way, they are going to Riga and Vilnius from St. Petersburg) arrive shortly after midnight (it would be a grand ‘salad’ of impressions to first see St. Petersburg, then Pskov, and then Riga and Vilnius).

As usual my first act on arriving was to secure a map which was available at the third shop – I should warn potential sophisticated visitors that atmosphere nearby the railway station is subjectively gloomy, roads are not too clean and perfect.

I took Jan Fabricius Street to Victory Square, then to Square of Geroev Desantnikov (by the way, the map shows so many foodstores of the Magnit retail chain scattered throughout the city – food there is cheap and I procured some stuff twice). I hear than in Kiev and Russia some bastards sawed down several crosses (this is what I am always reminded of on seeing any cross: there was a monument to the 300th anniversary of Pskov defence of 1581) as an act of protest apparently against church or politics (I’d rather say an act of imbecility), because crosses are put in the memory of dead people, and sawing them down is not opposition, it is desecration of grave, … etc. etc.

I crossed the bridge and saw a beautiful though austere tower – it reminded me of the Paks (Fat) Margarita tower in Tallinn (which unfortunately I did not see) and the Troitsky Cathedral rising high distantly and nearly cursed myself for not going straight to the centre because it seemed a significant distance. There were visible the domes of the Mirozhsky Monastery of XII century, famous for its frescoes remaining from the Pre-Mongolian times. I did not but pass by this monastery due to a stupid reason (there were beggars on both sides of the gates standing like two security guards so I did not want any conversation or begging to take place, and retired). I proceeded to the Alexander Nevsky Church (1908), which is not white as most others.

After that I saw a most peculiar sight – a small kiosk with signs ‘Hot-Dog’ and the like, and wondered whether any foreigner would take pains to go to that area and buy a hot dog there … but maybe the inscription was intended for Russians because we also use the word hot dog freely.

I crossed the river again to Kremlin (Crom) belonging to the XII century. Not only the Kremlin is surrounded by walls, there are fortifications in other city areas as well. The dominant here is Troitsky Cathedral with bell tower (1682-1699). Basically, I could not but mentally compare the previously seen Tallinn old city with the Pskov Kremlin, because the underlying idea is the same – walls, towers, and places of worship. Only the foundations remain of many churches in Dovmontov Grad (XIII-XIV cc); the colour of Kremlin walls and towers is beige. Much restoration was, is and will be carried out in Kremlin and the embankments round it are also being improved. Bricks seem like new but somehow harmony is felt and in places one can notice the difference between older and newer bricks.

The city’s ancient churches date back to the XII-XIV centuries while sources state that most buildings of that time in other parts of Russia were destroyed by Mongols or internal wars. I managed to see the following churches: of Resurrection of Christ, Varlaam Hutynski, Elias the Prophet (1677), Sudarium, Theophany (1496), Peter and Paul’s, Michael and Gabriel the Archangels (I’m becoming pious…), and, having had my fair share of yore, proceeded on the contemporary Oktiabrsky prospect. There are such places of interest as the Lenin Square and Monument with the Soviet touch, disappearing in many places but dear to myself; the monument to Princess (Kniagina) Olga (born in Pskov, ruled the Kievan Rus in 945-965 A.D. and used to bury her enemies alive, burn them and otherwise take revenge for her slain husband Kniaz Igor). The inevitable churches leave no room to swing a cat in, fine specimens being Churches of Acsensio Christi, Sergius of Radonezh, of Blessed Trinity (this is a modern-day construction, neat and colourful) and Holy Great Martyr Dimitry Solunsky on the cemetery among woods and graves with crosses.

Only a small number of civil buildings remain from the old times, to wit Pogankin’s Chambers (palaty) – a residential, warehouse and production brick building conceived in 1670-ies, looks like a white rectangular box with small holes for windows, now belongs to the municipal museum. Also, Prikaznaya Chamber in Dovmontov Grad and some other similar structures. Pskov is a must-see for travelers deeply interested in Russian culture and history, the more so its church architecture.

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Photos

Victory's Salute on Unknown Soldier's Grave
composition of gun barrels