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Europe » Russia » Centre » Suzdal December 10th 2009

The last time I wrote, I was just about to leave Vilnius, the current European capital of culture, in Lithuania. I had a slight feeling of anticipation about the next leg of my journey, as I’d read on numerous occasions that entering the Russian Federation can sometimes be a torturous, time-consuming affair. Luckily I was able to escape these feelings on the short walk to the train station. A couple of policemen flicked inattentively through a soft core porn magazine in their car. They gave me a look that wreaked of masculinity when they caught me peering through the car window as I walked past. Further on a group of tone deaf teenagers grunted to two friends who were walking in the wrong direction. Strangely enough they were oblivious to the calls and rapid hand movements. ... read more
St. Petersburg - Russia
St. Petersburg - Russia
St. Petersburg - Russia

Europe » Russia » Centre October 2nd 2009

Trains & things I remember my first train journey when I was about 9 or 10. Mum took Sandra and I to Edinburgh for the day. The train was a big event, as was the zoo and the present we got before we came home. I chose a “teenage doll”. She didn’t have a name as we were long before Sindy! Well, the Eurostar is right up there with that childhood memory. I was so impressed with the comfort and efficiency. We left on time. I was immediately surrounded by French voices. I hadn’t realised how much I have missed that these last few years. And it was so fast. Less than an hour after leaving Julie at St Pancras I realised we were in France. A few quick texts confirmed that we had made France ... read more

Europe » Russia » Centre September 11th 2009

When a dream comes true… Heute also ist es so weit, ich besteige die Trans Sibirische Eisenbahn, quer durch Russlands Europa und Asien. 5500 km Zug am Stück. Was wenn ich nur mit Pänzerli und stinkenden und betrunkenen Russen in einem kleinen 4 Bett Schlafabteil durch fünf Zeitzonen reisen muss? Grundsätzlich bestimmt die Zugnummer den Komfort, je kleiner die Nummer, desto besser der Zug. Petersburg - Moskau war Nr. 3. Das Blut gefriert mir in den Adern als ich meine Zugnummer für die Trans Sib sehe: 340! Shit! OK, nicht mal ich kann immer Glück haben… Doch ich kann! Einmal im Abteil mich eingerichtet und den Zug erkundet, finde ich heraus, dass der ganze Wagen voll mit Travelern aus aller Welt ist. Allen voran der Norwerger Thor mit welchem ich mich sofort anfreunde und welcher mich ... read more
Bahnhof in Omsk
Trans Sib Gleise
Thor beim einkaufen bei den Babushkas

Europe » Russia » Centre » Vladimir July 9th 2009

The Baltika Index - BI Definition : the price at which 500ml of locally produced beer of 5% abv strength can be purchased from a shop or hostel in a given location, expressed as a decimal fraction of the price of 500ml of Baltika 3 lager as purchased from the mini-bar in room 418 of the Hotel Vladamir, Vladamir, Russia in June 2009 (50 rubles or approx £1) I have this theory that the relative expense of town can pretty much be determined by looking at the price of a pint of lager, that's certainly been my experience in the UK anyway. After all, the post work pint/half litre of lager is a fairly common tipple amongst, for example, most "western" societies (I use the term loosely :) ). Hence, demand and supply (assuming there's a ... read more

Europe » Russia » Centre » Suzdal June 13th 2009

Before I start, I'd just like to say: I LOVE MY RUCKSACK! I think that one of the last things that some of you heard me say in London was along the lines of "I hate this f-ing bag" but now I'm used to it and have got rid of the extra "day bag" as well as ditching a few things before we left London I am liking my new home very much. Train #1: the 120 from Moscow to Vladimir So, our first trans-siberian train journey was a miniscule 2.5 hours on train number 120 and very pleasant it was too! It was so short that we didn't take any photos but we were sat in a nice clean airy 6 seat compartment and to our surprise (for we had not requested this with our ... read more
Church
Old Monestary
Bus

Europe » Russia » Centre May 28th 2009

Last Day - 11 May 2009 In the last 4-5 days I had visited the Red Square a number of times but somehow, had not yet stepped inside the GUM. On our last day n Moscow, we decided to visit the GUM and also the old haunts of Avi, namely Detskii Mir and the Bolshoi Theater. ‘Detskii Mir’ was to Russian children what the ‘Toys R Us’ to American kids. It is always a source of wonderment to me how fast children learn to recognize the ‘Toys R Us’ stores. My granddaughter Mitali used to point to ‘Toys R Us’ and insist that we go there when she was barely two years old, whenever we drove by it. Avi was a regular customer of ‘Detskii Mir’ (Again, I am talking of 37 years back.) because our ... read more
Lubyanka
Karl Marx
The Real Bolshoi

Europe » Russia » Centre May 28th 2009

I pursuaded Avi to write about his Moscow Days in 1972. Here it is in his own words: ****************************************************************** The scene is set in late 1972. I was in seventh heaven. Not just because the airplane was at a height of 33000 ft. but all my dreams had come true. I was among the select group to be trained abroad and I was actually heading for Moscow. I was also the proud father of a cute baby, 4 months old. Everything seemed to be going right for me. Moscow’s first sight was not exactly heartwarming. Everything looked dark and gloomy with white sheet of snow covering the landscape. Two formidable looking militia men were looking ferociously towards all the passengers arriving at the terminal. It was our first exposure to zero degree C and all that ... read more

Europe » Russia » Centre May 27th 2009

Victory Day - 9 May 2009 Every year Russians celebrate the Victory Day commemorating their victory over the Nazis. They won the victory at a very great cost. 27 Million Russians had lost their lives in the war. Russia parades her military strength in the Red Square on Victory Day. Select troops from her army, navy and aircraft goose-step to the tune of military band and the latest ICBMs and fast planes are exhibited. Since the admittance to Red Square on V-Day is only for VVIPS and we did not fall in that category, we decided to watch it on TV. When the planes flew on the Red Square, we could watch them on TV and just after few seconds could see them from our hotel window. The hotel was in their flight path. So it ... read more
Peter Monument
The ugliest structure I have ever seen
Kultur Park

Europe » Russia » Centre May 27th 2009

Kremlin - 10 May 2009 For the past 3-4 days, I had been viewing the Kremlin from the outside. Its sight of its red walls and green/red towers and the yellow, lofty buildings with golden domes, which peeped from behind the walls, had whetted my curiosity and desire to visit this center of Administrative Power as well as the Temporal Power. The ‘Rough Guide’ calls it the historic and spiritual heart of Mother Russia, and for all practical purposes, the Kremlin IS Russia. Kremlin was to Russia is what the Red Fort in New Delhi was to India during the Mogul rule. Just as Delhi’s importance did not lessen even when Mohammad Tughlak moved the capital to Daulatabad, in the same way, Moscow remained the prime city, even when Peter the Great moved the capital to ... read more
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Europe » Russia » Centre May 26th 2009

Bolshoi Ballet and Pushkin Museum - 7 May 2009 Somewhere, somehow, I had come across a comment about the ‘Three penny Opera’ that it shows the viewers one penny-worth of music, one penny-worth of dance and one penny-worth of Corruption/Black Market/Exploitation. What is true of the Opera is also true about the Ballet and this time I myself unwittingly played a minor role in the ‘three-penny Opera’ that unfolded outside the Bolshoi Theater. No, the Bolshoi was not playing Bertolt Brecht’s classic. It was playing another classic, the ballet ‘Spartacus’ on 7th May and 8th May and I wanted to see it. However, the cost was not a meager sum of three pennies but cost several thousands of pennies. The lowest tickets were at 2000 Roubles. (About 4000 Rs. after currency conversion.) The previous day, I ... read more
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