Advertisement
Published: October 1st 2007
My first day in Russia was intense to say the least. It started with a flight from Germany to Russia on Lufthansa- the best airline ever made. After enduring a horribly cramped eight and a half hour flight on United, I was delighted to find that Lufthansa knows how to do things right, even if you are in coach. The seats are bigger, there is more leg room, and surprisingly, English announcements were still made. First of all, let me say that my flight started at 10 pm, and ended around 5 am. There would be no reason to serve a meal, right? Not according to the people at Lufthansa, who promptly served drinks followed by an extremely good dinner which included a wedge of brie. This is not the crap that they served me on United, but actual food worth the swollen ankles I had after two days of traveling. And the one thing which was terribly surprising and nice was that even economy gets free alcohol, a luxury which many of my travel companions abused. I on the other hand got to have a glass of wine with dinner and relax.
When I finally got to Russia after many flights and delays, I felt like I had done something terribly wrong. Not because I was regretting my decision to go to Russia, but they way international passengers are treated. First, there is no runway to get to the terminal. Instead you must lug your bags down the stairs and up to a small bus filled with the entire plane’s passengers. Thankfully, the Russian belief that women are the weaker sex prevailed, and a man picked up and carried by bag the whole way to the visa check point. Hooray for Russian chauvinism. So then we all stand in this little waiting area which once again makes you think like you did something wrong. You must go one at a time, wait for the green light, and go up to the booth of bullet-proof glass to have your visa checked. Thankfully I was one of the first in line.
After lying to customs and saying I had nothing to declare (well, I thought I was lying and being all CIA like, but turns out since I didn’t have a lot of high-priced stuff, I actually didn’t have to declare anything). As soon as I got through the door, Aygul and Michael were waiting for me, and after the obligatory hugs and kisses, we all had fun carrying my massive luggage to the taxi. If you like roller coasters, I highly recommend riding in a Russian taxi. It’s just like a roller coaster, except there is a much higher chance you might die. In fact, all forms of Russian transportation save the metro are like gambling. Which brings me to a fabulous quote from a family Michael met on his way to Russia: “Everything in Russia is an accident waiting to happen.” That being said, this driver thought lane lines and even street parameters (hello traintracks!) were just suggestions.
After what I thought was the ride of a lifetime, we get to my building. Aygul called my host mother on the way there and said she sounded nice. She could not let us into the building though because her phone for the building pager did not work, so we waited for a random person to let us in (when you are bringing things IN to a building, people will happily accommodate you). We dragged my luggage up no less than 5 flights of stairs since I live on the fifth floor (the first floor in Russia is always ‘zero’, so our second is their first). Then my house mother, Ilkam, let us in and started talking a mile a minute. Let me tell you, after traveling across the world for two days straight, I could barely understand when she said hello. Thankfully Aygul was there and got everything situated for me. Ilkam showed me to my room: the dining room. I know it sounds strange, but that’s how they do things in Russia, and it has wood floors and is actually bigger than my room in the US. Plus I have my own television, a luxury almost unheard of. Since it was 5:30 in the morning, she and Mike went to go get some more sleep before they would take me to the university.
I asked if I could take a shower, and Ilkam of course obliged after laughing at my huge bag of toiletries and giving me a few instructions. Since my hair is so long, I must get toilet paper and remove my hair from the drain and throw it away in the trash under the sink. Got it. Also, if I have to go number 2, I have to put toilet paper in the toilet first so that nothing gets on the toilet itself. And apparently if I get diarrhea, I have to go to the university (but I think that was a joke). Before I actually got to the shower however, Ilkam decided that I must be hungry at such an early hour, and so she sat me down and gave me some watermelon and three pieces of cheesecake. Yes, three. Of course, I had never met her before in my life and didn’t want to be rude despite the fact that I was stuffed from the good plane food (sounds like an oxymoron, right?). So I ate EVERYTHING. And then she gave me more. It was an interesting introduction to Russia, as was my entire first day.
The shower, when I finally got it, was surprisingly pleasant for Russia. It had hot water and a removable showerhead, which was great considering I was taller than the mount. So the shower went well with no problems. I got out, changed into clean clothes (finally), and thought I was going to bed for a while. Then I realized that none of my family knew I was alive. So I tried to call my mom for about an hour; Ilkam and I could not figure it out, so I decided I would try later at the university. Then the door rang, and Ilkam made me answer it. It was her husband, who did not know I was there yet. So I opened the door to find a spry looking man who just stood there for a few moments and finally said “isanmesez” and came in (isanmesez is tatar for hello). And thus I met Glyus Abi (uncle Glyus). Ilkam Apa (aunt Ilkam) told me all about Glyus Abi and how he was a physics professor, and she showed me all his lectures as if I am going to understand them. Thus explains the huge apartment for such a small family (they also have a son, Idegae). During the Soviet Union, professors and the intelligentsia were the most venerated among the population, and got the best housing.
I finally got to lie down, but was too excited about being in Russia to actually sleep. So I got up and unpacked (yes mom, I unpacked on my first day and my room is clean). I got ready for going to the university, and was rummaging through some bags when Glyus Abi knocked on the door and asked me if I would like some kasha, a Russian staple consisting of boiled grain. I’ve had kasha before and it was not pleasant, but how could I refuse? In the kitchen, Glyus Abi shows me where the kasha is and tells me if I like it, he will make it for me for breakfast in the mornings. To my surprise and delight, this special dark tatar kasha was delicious. I ate two helpings and told Glyus Abi that I would like it very much if he would make it for me for breakfast. He got up and told me to leave the dishes and then said that Wednesdays are his pool days when he goes to swim. So he starts to leave and I ask him about keys since Ilkam Apa was already gone. He gave me a set of keys (his own since he could not find the others) and gave me a short tutorial about how to lock and unlock the doors. It sounds stupid but trust me, when you have seven deadbolts, you need someone to teach you. I got it right after a couple of tries and felt ok about being left alone in the apartment. So he left and I was alone for the first time in Russia. I looked out the balcony, went back in, lied on the bed, and felt like crying. Then the phone rang, and Aygul and Mike were downstairs waiting for me. So I got up and went with them to the university, which Aygul kept telling me was “so close”. It wasn’t, at least not for Americans. It was very very far. Now, of course it seems like nothing, but walking five city blocks, going through a metro tunnel, then walking another block over and then up a huge hill didn’t seem so ‘close’ to me. Aygul came with us into the international student area because there was no guard on duty (seriously, they have guards for this stuff). We go into the office of international admissions and get yelled at for something, and then go to another office to give them my passport and give them my required ‘black and white, passport-sized pictures.’
Well in Russia, passport photos are much smaller, so I must go get new ones. So we walk down the giant hill and back one block to get to this empty basement with only a chair, tripod, and two desks with photo printers. It was like a scene from a bad horror film. Still, I got the pictures, paid too much money for them, and we left. We thought it would be a good idea to get some drinks, since it was the noon hour and all the university offices would be closed. We went to a little café next to the University (back up the hill) and I got to order my first drink in Russian. They understood when I said “pol liter pepsi pozhalsta’, or “a half liter of pepsi please.” Of course, they giggled a bit too, and even tried to speak English, but Michael and I said no, do not speak to us in English. Thirty rubles later, we had our drinks and got to sit and enjoy the nice English music videos on the giant screen. When it was time to get up, I wondered where the trashcans were. There weren’t any. In Russia, you just leave everything on the table; it is the job of the employees to clean up after you. And you don’t tip. It’s nice actually.
We went back to the university and the guard was back on duty so Aygul was not allowed back in with us, and we had to go it alone. I gave two of my pictures to the international admissions office, got yelled at some more, and we were told to come back on Friday to get the rest of our information and then I could give my other photos to the office down the hall. We left and met up with Ildar, Aygul’s husband and out friend, who says he has been looking for a new apartment for them all day. Aygul’s friend Leisan has a dacha (a small house in the country) where we were all invited that evening. So Ildar took me home so I could pack and told me he would come get me after he looked at more apartments. Aygul and Mike went back to their place to get their stuff ready. I packed a change of clothes, toothbrush, etc. It didn’t seem like much until I saw everyone else’s tiny bags. Oh well, I’m American.
Ildar called me and told me to come downstairs to meet him. We went to the bus station next to my building, but it was closed for the day, so we walked to the metro and took that (my first Russian metro ride!). It was clean, nice, uncrowded, and convenient. Unfortunately since it is so new, there are only five stops and we couldn’t get far for our eight rubles a piece. After the metro, we took a bus (my first Russian bus ride!). You can have no sense of personal space on a Russian bus. Everyone is touching you and you must deal with it, even with the woman’s armpit in your face. Michael calls the city buses “shitty bus”, and rightfully so, I guess. Still, it’s cheap transportation. After that cramped experience, we get off and walk for about fifteen minutes through an outdoor market. We reach a busy street and meet up with Dilyara, a friend of Aygul and Ildar’s. Aygul and Mike were stuck in traffic for another twenty minutes or so. Once they arrived, we went across the six traffic lanes and three train tracks during rushhour with no traffic signal. Once again, totally normal for Russia. We went to the stop for the bus which goes out of town towards the dacha, and found about forty people. This was going to be an even more crowded bus. After Dilyara went to go get groceries, the natives decided the best idea would be to enzhine (think engine with a Russian accent), which is a nice term for hitchhiking. After sticking out some thumbs, Ildar gets a car for me, mike and himself, and we pay the guy 150 rubles to take us to the dacha. It’s the taxi ride all over minus that security that the taxi driver probably won’t kill you. Still, we got there more or less intact.
Upon our arrival, everyone set to work. Ildar went outside to dig potatoes for dinner, the girls prepared the other things in the kitchen, and Mike helped where needed. I however, as a guest (someone who has been with you three days or less), was not allowed to help. So I finally fell asleep on the couch. Mike mentioned that there were beds upstairs so I went and found the first one and snuggled up, despite shivers (it felt cold even though I knew it wasn’t).
When I awoke several hours later, I discovered that I had missed the food, and that the banya was in full swing. Aygul and Ildar were in the banya together (they’re married so it’s ok). I realized that Mike was not there (he was asleep), and that I didn’t really know anyone there, and they were all speaking Russian. Thankfully Dilyara spotted me and came over. She took me inside and gave me food, and then took me outside and introduced me to people. At this point I really had to go to the bathroom. So I asked them where it was. They all laughed. They explained to me that there was an outhouse, and showed me where it was. But they didn’t give me a flash light. Do you have any idea how hard it is to pee into a hole that you can’t see? And I had to try not to accidentally slip and step into the hole. It’s true what the Russian’s say: Americans can’t squat. Well, I finished and came back to the party. When they asked me how it was, I just said “interesting”.
So we talked for a while by the fire, usually about America, Russia, Putin, and Bush. And it’s true that when people find out you are American, they want to practice their English. All the time. Oh well, it was my first day and a welcomed reprieve from a very intense day. As we talked, various married and engaged couples went in the banya together. After that however, it was the single girls’ turn. So everyone asked me if I was going to go with them. And of course, it seemed like the perfect topping to my first day in Russia. So I said of course.
A few minutes later I was naked in a steam room with two girls I had met earlier in the day. Surprisingly, it was not weird. We talked, hung out, and added various liquids to the steamer to make different smells (beer steam is surprisingly good). And then things got even more interesting. Dilyara laid down and Leisan took a bundle of branches that had been soaking in hot soapy water and began to smack Dilyara with them. This has been a Russian tradition in bath houses for centuries. Everyone would go and get clean in this way. And after Dilyara, it was my turn. Yes, I got naked and was smacked with a bunch of leaves on my first day on the other side of the world. After Leisan’s turn, we all washed up with soap and rinsed off and then went to the adjoined room to dry off and change. I went outside, and the boys had cooked sausages over the fire. So after my banya experience, I ended the day with some sausage and pepsi before I went to bed upstairs. I don’t think I’ll ever forget that first day; it was definitely worth the plane ride.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.09s; Tpl: 0.014s; cc: 8; qc: 48; dbt: 0.0522s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Kelly
non-member comment
Nekked
LOL. So your first day in Russia kinda sounds like the beginning of a porn. At least the last part in the banya. Good to know you made it safe and are having a good time. Love and miss!