Kostroma and Ivanovo: Two Different but Remarkable Cities

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Kostroma

It’s another weekend and it’s another train trip on an overnight train in the ‘depths’ of interminable Russia. In my head now are dozens of names of Russian cities, towns and places, which I’d like to visit, and each and every time I return from a town, I want to see more, and more, and more.

I am also arranging three trips to Europe. I am losing roubles for each euro I pay for those hotels and tickets, and I blame this solely on the American and European governments.

I chose Kostroma and Ivanovo, because they have a lot of sights and are located close to each other. Somehow Ivanovo is included in the Golden Circuit of Russia, but I would dispute this, because Ivanovo is too young as compared to the other towns, and has a different feel. From my childhood, I remember two things about the cities – one is the folk song “Kostroma, Kostroma, gosudarynia moia” rendered by Ivan Kupala, and the saying that Ivanovo is a city of brides.

I went on train from Moscow Yaroslavski Station and arrived in Kostroma at 7 in the morning. I did not sleep well (if at all, I think it was due to some anxiety; the train shook considerably while at high speed). I spent about 30 minutes in the station, reading Virginia Woolf’s Mrs. Dalloway (but I did not like this book), while it was still dark outside; then I immediately went to the bus station, about 15-minutes’ walk, to buy the bus ticket to Ivanovo. It was scheduled at 12-20, so I had plenty of time. There was a drizzle, but soon it ended. I walked along the city’s main artery. It was quite a long way to the central square and the town’s sightseeing area. As usual, I got cold and visited McDonalds for a cup of hot coffee.

I liked the city very much, there were low-rise timber buildings harmonically mixed with brick ones, and soon I reached the city’s heart. It began with a nice mini park with lamp posts and benches, leading to the shopping arcades. From the very first glance, I realized I had ‘much work’ to do in order to complete all sights in due time. There were many pools on the streets – I heavy rain must have fallen during the night or the previous evening.

Amongst yellow leaves and tree branches, I perceived a monument to a man standing with his left hand in his pocket, and his right hand pointing forward. I guessed that must be Mr. Lenin, and truly it was him, but I was puzzled by the post – I have never seen Lenin on such a decorated post. I think it was the nicest monument to the man I ever saw. Not far from there was a viewing site to see the river, the bridge, and the opposite bank. From there I went back and entered the shopping arcades with a bell tower and a church. On the territory were lots of trading areas arranged in beautiful buildings.

Then I came out to Susanin Square named after the famous Russian Ivan Susanin, with a monument to the man. In front of the monument was a nice boulevard descending to the river. Next, Iexploredthesquareitself.

Kostroma was founded in the XII century, and its historical centre has retained the exemplary ensemble of the classicism epoch of the end of XVIII and XIX centuries.

My first idea upon entering Susanin Square was that it can easily be called Russia’s best square (without consideration of Red Square in Moscow and Dvortsovaya Square in Petersburg). It is large, and everywhere on its sides are beautiful buildings, and a yellow fire tower. In the centre are many flowerbeds and lawns and benches. I took a side street, where several church domes were seen. I saw many interesting buildings, and liked all of them. I do advise anyone to include Kostroma in their top three lists to see in the vicinity of Moscow. I saw a monastery, but saw a sign prohibiting photography, so I decided to simply not go there.

Then the area was already devoid of sights, but I knew there was another monastery across the river. I went forward, but, as it often happens with me, chose a wrong street and took a minibus back to the centre. I had much trouble inside of my stomach and needed a lavatory as soon as possible. I returned to the shopping arcades and searched for it there, but there seemed to be none. However, I saw a picturesque building looking like a castle which turned out to be a puppet theater. I found a café and there discharged myself, and felt ready for the final rush to Ipatyevsky Monastery. I bought a map also. A minibus quickly took me there. As we passed the bridge, I saw that the best view of the monastery would be from the bridge, and so I had to be very quick, to see the monastery, to cross one third of the bridge, and then to return to the bus station.

I had to pay 230 roubles for the entry to the monastery and the right to photograph. The monastery was first mentioned in the annals in 1432. The monastery consists of two parts: the Old Town and the New Town, with high stone walls enclosing both. The centre of the monastery is the Trinity Cathedral. I spent about 5-7 minutes inside the monastery and then rushed on to the bus station and had to wait only twenty minutes before the bus to Ivanovo came. My spirits were not high during the whole day, because I’ve not seen my relatives for many months due to the work, and because I’m lonely here in Moscow, without any friends or even acquaintances. It’s started to get on my nerves by I plan to see my wife soon and on November 3 I want to go to my hometown.





Ivanovo

Ivanovo is about two hours’ drive away from Kostroma. The drive was comfortable but after the entry to the city a traffic jam formed. I did not have any clear idea of how to start my sightseeing, but the problem was solved easily. The bus passed from one end to another, and thus I managed to see and note the interesting places from its window. However, when the bus entered the less interesting area, and seemed to be approaching the bus station, I decided to leave it. Then I took trolleybus, several stops, and soon saw my first sight – it was a cropper dog statue. I also saw the city’s first brick building, Schudrovskaya Palatka of XVII century (I saw it, but thought this building was not so important).

As I said earlier, Ivanovo is known at the city of brides (also as the Birthplace of the First Soviet, the Calico District, textile capital of Russia, and even Russian Manchester. The city’s female population prevailed, one of the reasons being the development of textile industry, where many women worked. The demography became even worse after the Great Patriotic War. The city was very neat and clean, lively and energetic – I did not expect such impressions.

I saw the monument to the Revolution of 1905 with a chapel near it. The nearby area is a nice park where pigeons were warming on the ground in the sun. I was excited more in Ivanovo than in Kostroma. I walked a bit along Lenin Prospect, and then went to see the sights I perceived from the bus.

Ivanovo has several monuments relating to the constructivism style, whereof I saw the regional bank building (1927) and the Palace of Arts (1939); I also saw the imposing building of Medical Institute. On a building wall was drawn the ‘student’s valuation book’ where the city of Ivanovo, 140 years old, passed the exam for citizens’ love and pride: “The native city, we are proud of you!” I also saw two churches and a monument to the heroes of Great Patriotic War; the Sovremennik cinema theater with its recognizable Soviet-style name. In many places there were posts with inscriptions ‘I love Ivanovo’, and indeed I felt that the city’s citizens and authorities like and take care of their own city.

It was time to have a bite and rest, I was very sleepy and already tired. I returned to the Revolution monument by bus, and, choosing a side street, found an admirable pizzeria Dvorik Marziano where I found the prices to be acceptable and food finger-licking good. I had a slice of pizza, a pasta with chicken, solyanka and green tea with mint (a 800-ml bowl for mere 90 roubles!).

After the meal, I found a nice minipark with a chapel and a monument to Georgy Pobedonosets, and also noticed that the city’s benches were all made to the same pattern. I saw a cathedral on a hill, where the view was formidable to due to the setting sun, blue sky, and yellow, red leaves. I said to myself, this is well an excellent city!

I passed the Palace of Arts and crossed the bridge, and decided to follow Lenina Prospect until I got completely tired and then take a bus to the train station. It turned out I walked too much, so that when, after rather a long wait at the bus stop, I boarded a bus and asked whether it took me there, I got the reply that the train station was right here but in the other direction. I asked a man and he told me to go between the apartment blocks. I found myself in a displeasing area where some parts of the road were all dirt and pools, but the train station was there.

I spent several hours waiting and reading Mrs. Dalloway. Then my train came, but people could not board it because of some mysterious manipulations with cars. Three of them were taken away, and three other ones attached instead. This time I slept well. Next week, hopefully, I go t Finland.

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